Tempory Thread Fix Vamo

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donesmokin

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Could you tell us what's wrong with the SS V5 threads? was just about buying another V5 for its steel thread...

Soft metal? Cut wrong? I'm really not sure but I could tell right out of the box they were no where near as good as my V1. Right now I've got a sealed 510/510 jammed in there:

510 to 510 Shorty Battery Extension - Sealed : L Js E-Smokes, Electronic Cigarettes

Like others my V5 top cap doesn't want to come off very easy so I'm not going to push my luck until I have to. I'm thinking my next step would be this eGo to eGo 510 adapter:

EGO to EGO 510 Atomizer Adapter : L Js E-Smokes, Electronic Cigarettes
 

350ZMO

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www.ecigarette411.com
Soft metal? Cut wrong? I'm really not sure but I could tell right out of the box they were no where near as good as my V1. Right now I've got a sealed 510/510 jammed in there:

510 to 510 Shorty Battery Extension - Sealed : L Js E-Smokes, Electronic Cigarettes

Like others my V5 top cap doesn't want to come off very easy so I'm not going to push my luck until I have to. I'm thinking my next step would be this eGo to eGo 510 adapter:

EGO to EGO 510 Atomizer Adapter : L Js E-Smokes, Electronic Cigarettes

Yep brass.

My V2, V3 and V5 threads are fine and were cut right but I noticed from day one the 510 top cap is chrome plated yellow brass on all of them and I was and still am very wary. It's just a matter of time...

Just a tiny variance in thread cutting could be a recipe for failure. Also with stainless 510 toppers, that can be a problem for multiple reasons; the SS is harder and would pull the brass threads in the top cap if the threads on the top cap or topper were slightly off resulting in gouged, pulled or crossed threads, if it was over tightened...and that wouldn't take much, or corrosion from dissimilar metals especially if you add a little salt, base, or acid - like citrus for example. And once eroded its gone. Brass on brass is ok as brass is considered self lubricating but would still suffer if not cut right, over tightened or cross threaded which is easy to do with soft metals.

Assuming you can get one that is cut right from manufacture, and I have been lucky to get three, clean the threads in the top cap and topper with a que tip and when screwing on being very careful to not cross thread, and when tightening - just till it mates, no more torque, not even finger tight, call it finger tip tight lol. Anyhow that's how I have treated them and they are all still fine. I have noticed that even on a bottom sealed tank there is still a black residue that builds on the threads of the top cap and topper, I believe but cant prove, that is chrome plate and brass wearing off the threads. There is definitely a market for a SS VAMO top cap and an all SS VAMO threaded body IE no press fits.

I have looked at shorty 510 extensions, 510 to ego adapters and 510 Tank Airflow Controllers as a way to protect the VAMO top cap threads. I have not found an ego to 510 and until your post an ego to ego so thank you donesmokin! Great find. Definitely needed if the 510 threads are toast and you don't want to put a new topper on. I thought about cleaning the threads with alcohol and loctiting one of these on. Given those choices available, the ego to ego or airflow controller is probably the best option. Even if you didn't need the air flow control, the airflow controller has a large diameter collar and would look better than the gap produced by even a 510 shorty. But the ego to ego would be the best for strength. For now all is well with the threads on my VAMOs so I think Ill get a couple of those airflow controllers before I start having any problems.

Also, I have started wearing a lanyard to hold my rig. I look like a geek but since I have been wearing it, I have not had a single accidental flop or drop.
 
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