Tempted by...

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Paramaniac413

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I've been tempted by temp control. I am an avid mech user. I love my REO. I love my SMPL. I love my G-box. I have a 40w VF clone (no temp control), but I haven't been using it that much. My local B&M now sells The VaporShark rDNA40, but is temp control really worth it? I've been having a heluva time with my subtanks - they always taste burnt now even at low wattage. Would the nickel be any better?
The other thing is, if it's worth it, do I replace the chip in my VF with a real chip with the temp control (I really stink at soldering) or just say to heck with it and get a Shark?
Need input...lots of input. lol


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Eekins

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IMO, not worth it. I have a smok M80 Plus. Provided theres alot to be said about the temp control on this particular device(I think it works just fine), but I just don't generally like using the temp setting, I bought a pack of nickel coils for my subtank mini, used one and never touched it again. Im guess that this is something that will be dependent on the person though because my wife like the temp control. She likes to produce alot of vapour but she doesnt like it when its too hot of a vape so if you like blowing clouds but want a nice cool vape, I guess it works out well. I also find different juices have varying degrees of taste. I don't mind vaping a menthol on the nickel, it makes the menthol taste nice when it's a little cooler, but I'm not much of a menthol guy in general. I'm probably not much help, but like I said, its all really relative to you. Some people like box mods, some like mech. Some like sub ohm, some don't.
 

sedition

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If you want to stick with the Sub Tank and can't work out the problems without it, it might be well worth it. Some atomizers are really sensitive to correct wicking (looking at you, Erlkonigin).. TC will work as a safeguard against that. Unless TC tech has changed much in the last 6 months, just be aware that nickel builds can be a whole new can of worms. They're sensitive in their own right.
 

Rizzyking

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Yeah best TC mod out there at the minute is yihi sx mini m class just remember to set your temp to less then 214°C and with the sx mini let both mod and Atty hit room temp and then press the two small buttons together to calibrate the mod to the Atty :). TC is great I've had a few tanks on a friends sx mini and it made a big difference so much so that as soon as I can I'll be purchasing one though by the time I've got the cash it will be the z class lol.
 

m00shie

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I was previously using IPV Mini and has just recently bought the SX Mini M Class. Based on my personal experience, it's a great change...and I absolutely have no regrets.

Here's what I like about TC compared to normal PVs:
1) Very consistent vaping experience.
2) No dry hits, cotton burn or popping.
3) Maximize your e-juice as you now can vape until it's dry
4) Not sure if it's my imagination but even on normal power mode, the vape experience is much better and flavorful comparing the same wattage use with my previous IPV mini.

However, just to set expectations correctly, TC is still very new. Although I have not come across any issue, I've read that some people have difficulties in using the TC on their DNA40 or SX350J mods. As the technology or method has not matured yet, we may see further improvements in the near future. Good thing about the SX Mini is that the firmware is upgradable so we can get improvements without needing to buy new ones.

There are various threads about the SX Mini and DNA40. You can try lookup the differences and see which you like best if you decide to make a change to TC mods.
 

m00shie

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At present moment, I do not have any difficulties in building nickel. In fact, the 'springiness' characteristics on the coil makes it easier to do spaced coil. I've been reading a lot about nickel build in ECF (thanks to the contribution by many experts here) prior to getting the SX Mini..so I was more or less prepared on what I will be facing compared to Kanthal.

Sadly, I only have 30G at present moment as my order for 26G and 28G is still enjoying the in-flight movies somewhere above. I started from 30G 0.16ohm 2mm (9 wraps) and now I'm down to 30G 0.12ohm 2.5mm (6 wraps). Still on standard single coil build. Have not started experimenting on twisted builds as I'm enjoying the vape on standard coil builds :). Just waiting for the rest of the coil to arrive so as I can test on lower resistance.
 

SissySpike

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I like temp control I use titanium wire I like the YiHi temp over he DNA so far.
No screen issues with the YiHi and I prefer to set it my self Vs the auto setting of the DNA but both do a good job. I have not tried the Smok box to many issues have been reported.
I would advise getting a IPV 4 or a modded box with a YiHi 350 in it this is all new stuff so Id imagine there will be more and better boards come along. The SX Mini M is nice but has a good price tag also.

I had a VF clone DNA 40 with temp control to compare to the Legit DNA 40 the clone did not have the screen issues the DNA had but in IMO opinion it did not work as well.
I gave the clone away
 
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m00shie

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I like temp control I use titanium wire I like the YiHi temp over he DNA so far.
No screen issues with the YiHi and I prefer to set it my self Vs the auto setting of the DNA but both do a good job. I have not tried the Smok box to many issues have been reported.
I would advise getting a IPV 4 or a modded box with a YiHi 350 in it this is all new stuff so Id imagine there will be more and better boards come along. The SX Mini M is nice but has a good price tag also.

I had a VF clone DNA 40 with temp control to compare to the Legit DNA 40 the clone did not have the screen issues the DNA had but in IMO opinion it did not work as well.
I gave the clone away
Just like to point out a minor correction...the IPV4 uses the SX330 v4S chip which is a lower end version of the SX350J. The core temperature control and the regular vw features are present. What's missing is the rest of the functions like accelerator, ramp-up power (soft, normal, powerful and powerful+), less details on screen, etc. The rest of it like quality and display solely depends on the manufacturer such as P4U and Sigelei. As the mods are approximately half the cost of the SX Mini, we don't expect it to have the same quality. But the basic temperature controls does function similar to the SX Mini. If you can accept the issues that some people have commented, it's still a decent budget TC mod. Not comparing to clones of course :)
 

jseah

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I currently have 3 TC mods, the VS rDNA40, the SX Mini M Class, and a VF clone. I also have a IPV 4 in the custody of the USPS on its way to me. TC is not a magic cure all that will make all your problems go away. While it will prevent you from getting a dry hit, it doesn't instantly allow you to vape at 1,000 watts. Here is the best example I can give for this.

I have a Subtank Mini with the standard kanthal 0.5 ohm OCC. I vape this at around 21-25 watts. If I go higher, then the vape is just too hot for my tastes and the flavor will start to taste burnt to me. With a Subtank Mini with a nickel OCC on my SX Mini M Class, I still have to keep my wattage at around the same. If I turn it up and vape it at 30 watts, then the vape heats up and the flavor still starts to taste burnt.
 

m00shie

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I currently have 3 TC mods, the VS rDNA40, the SX Mini M Class, and a VF clone. I also have a IPV 4 in the custody of the USPS on its way to me. TC is not a magic cure all that will make all your problems go away. While it will prevent you from getting a dry hit, it doesn't instantly allow you to vape at 1,000 watts. Here is the best example I can give for this.

I have a Subtank Mini with the standard kanthal 0.5 ohm OCC. I vape this at around 21-25 watts. If I go higher, then the vape is just too hot for my tastes and the flavor will start to taste burnt to me. With a Subtank Mini with a nickel OCC on my SX Mini M Class, I still have to keep my wattage at around the same. If I turn it up and vape it at 30 watts, then the vape heats up and the flavor still starts to taste burnt.
Sorry...may I ask what temperature you have set your SX Mini when you are getting burnt taste at 30W (or is it 30J)?
 

Paramaniac413

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Interesting responses. How are the stock nickel heads for the subtank? I still haven't mastered the rba deck.
I should also add that I don't vape over 40w. TC is intriguing. If I went with something TC, any idea how hard it would be to replace the board in my VF clone to one with TC? Or is it better to just get a different box?


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jseah

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Sorry...may I ask what temperature you have set your SX Mini when you are getting burnt taste at 30W (or is it 30J)?

My SX Mini is set to 400 degrees. Yeah, it is set at 30 joules. And even at 30 joules, I can't hit it for more than a couple of seconds at a time, otherwise too warm and I get that funky burnt taste. I currently have it set to 23 joules and I can take a nice 4 second hit and the temperature of the vape will be fine but if I hit it for longer than that, the burnt taste starts showing up (even if the vape isn't too warm). I think the big issue is that the Subtank, with just the two wicking holes just can't wick the juice fast enough.

This demonstrates the huge difference between the Subtank and the Atlantis. With the Atlantis 2 (as well as the Atlantis 1) and the 4 wick holes, I have that on my VS rDNA40, with the temperature control set to 450 degrees and the power set to the maximum 40 watts, I can take a huge 8 second hit and the vape won't taste burnt. The temp control will kick on but the Atlantis wicks the juice fast enough that it doesn't run dry.
 
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SissySpike

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Interesting responses. How are the stock nickel heads for the subtank? I still haven't mastered the rba deck.
I should also add that I don't vape over 40w. TC is intriguing. If I went with something TC, any idea how hard it would be to replace the board in my VF clone to one with TC? Or is it better to just get a different box?


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I see alot of People open up the juice feed channels and tend to like it better with the RBA head.
Sure You can replace the clone with a legit. Someone prolly not as savy as you put it together
My attitude about tinkering with stuff is someone put it together. With a little patience persistence and determination I can take it apart see what makes it tick make it better and put it back together.

This works well for me in most cases but some times I just end up with spare parts for a different project;)
 
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