Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.

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Aal_

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If the wire is not affixed to a stationary point at one end...and the device, whatever it is…pin vise, gizmo or clamp…to another — where does the strain come from?

Strain is elongation.

Good luck.

:)
But using the clamp, the wire is being tensioned by the high friction of the rubber and leather
 

Mactavish

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Seems to me you could use the device as is, like a Coil Master, or fix the end point to an unmovable object and with the handle, wind toward the fixed point to gain tension if desired. Nice work on the pictures, and designing something most can, cheaply and easily duplicate. Your efforts have not gone unnoticed!
 

MacTechVpr

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Turbocad6, I am sorry that you felt I was shooting you down. That was not my intention. I said what I said, because I don't have one to test your theory with. I do plan on making one of these to test it. You have something there that is making some beautiful coils. I just can't say that it is producing adhesion until I can get one going. Maybe I can get the stuff and build one this weekend. I still have not had a chance to sit down and test mine yet. I have it built, but have not wrapped a coil with it. There aren't enough hours in my day and not enough of me to go around. :)

I didn't take your response that way W. I'm still skeptical of the microcoil! LOL

Prove all things, hold fast that which is good.

:D

G'luck.

p.s. I'm sure before this is done folks will find countless ways to balance strain and compression in their winds.
 

MacTechVpr

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Seems to me you could use the device as is, like a Coil Master, or fix the end point to an unmovable object and with the handle, wind toward the fixed point to gain tension if desired. Nice work on the pictures, and designing something most can, cheaply and easily duplicate. Your efforts have not gone unnoticed!

Good point. You could use a coiler omitting the rotating end. Start workin' real fat wire or multi wire like twisted and you better keep a darn good hold on that loose end under your thumb! :D G'luck.

p.s. Reminder, if you missed my post [HASHTAG]#1125[/HASHTAG]…it's all about oxidation. The more consistent the oxidation the higher the threshold of breakdown voltage and more stable the complete circuit in a contact coil. Adhesion or closest proximity is the key to stable vape temp's.
 

MacTechVpr

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But using the clamp, the wire is being tensioned by the high friction of the rubber and leather

That wasn't my take away from some of T's descrip's. And he has built a formidable mechanical so I think we all know the goal. Lesse whattha scoop is. I am seeing some possible approaches. G'luck. :)
 

Mactavish

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Good point. You could use a coiler omitting the rotating end. Start workin' real fat wire or multi wire like twisted and you better keep a darn good hold on that loose end under your thumb! :D G'luck.

p.s. Reminder, if you missed my post [HASHTAG]#1125[/HASHTAG]…it's all about oxidation. The more consistent the oxidation the higher the threshold of breakdown voltage and more stable the complete circuit in a contact coil. Adhesion or closest proximity is the key to stable vape temp's.

Not what I meant.
 

turbocad6

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Turbocad6, I am sorry that you felt I was shooting you down. That was not my intention. I said what I said, because I don't have one to test your theory with. I do plan on making one of these to test it. You have something there that is making some beautiful coils. I just can't say that it is producing adhesion until I can get one going. Maybe I can get the stuff and build one this weekend. I still have not had a chance to sit down and test mine yet. I have it built, but have not wrapped a coil with it. There aren't enough hours in my day and not enough of me to go around. :)

ha, no wilson I didn't think you was shooting me down I just thought that I didn't explain it well enough which is why I said that I can understand why you might think that, and then went on to explain it more. truth is your assumptions were valid just turns out that wasn't the case here

mac the wire isn't tied to anything to induce stretch but it is being held snugly in the 2 cutting jaws and the winding of the coil is pulling against this restriction, inducing tension and strain. here's a quick sketch to show what I mean

20150603_143650_zps1f7zjlay.jpg


now there is tension between the coil and the jaws and there are 2 points of mandrel forming that stress the wire into it's new form

the first bit of mandrel forming uses the wire itself as a mandrel, the approach angle causes this bit of stress which causes adhesion or compression. ever take a straight wire and pinch it between your finger tip and a tool and pinch tightly and draw the wire through this pinch? what happens? the wire winds up forming a big curve, it's no longer straight because one side of the wire winds up getting stressed more than the other, this is what happens at the first point of deflection at this approach angle meeting a slight change in direction, this forms compression or adhesion... what this does is not only stack the wraps but it makes them want to naturally pull into each other the way drawing a straight wire through your finger pinched to a tool causes the wire to curve

the second bit of mandrel forming happens right after the first but on a different plane and that's the one that turns a straight wire into a coil. in the pic I drew the bottom shows the first bit of stress forming while the top shows the second forming which is actually forming the straight wire into a coil

as far as using this for twisted wire I think that the twisted may be much harder on the leather, almost like a saw tooth action, forget about twisted ribbon like MM, that'll shred the leather to bits I think, the reason why the leather works so well is because it causes friction which increases the tension but it doesn't get damaged because the wire drawn over it is so smooth, start introducing jagged bumps of twisted and all bets are off, light gauge twisted prolly be ok, like twisted 32, twisted 30, but heavier I'm thinking will probably cause the leather to deteriorate rapidly. I haven't tried any twisted with this
 

MacTechVpr

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Not what I meant.

Hope ya didn't think I was being condescending Mac. Sorry if it seemed that way. The p.s. was just to emphasize the difficulties winding thick wire. I often speak to the bleachers.

BTW, what did ya mean? :) G'luck.
 
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MacTechVpr

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ha, no wilson I didn't think you was shooting me down I just thought that I didn't explain it well enough which is why I said that I can understand why you might think that, and then went on to explain it more. truth is your assumptions were valid just turns out that wasn't the case here

mac the wire isn't tied to anything to induce stretch but it is being held snugly in the 2 cutting jaws and the winding of the coil is pulling against this restriction, inducing tension and strain. here's a quick sketch to show what I mean

20150603_143650_zps1f7zjlay.jpg


now there is tension between the coil and the jaws and there are 2 points of mandrel forming that stress the wire into it's new form

the first bit of mandrel forming uses the wire itself as a mandrel, the approach angle causes this bit of stress which causes adhesion or compression. ever take a straight wire and pinch it between your finger tip and a tool and pinch tightly and draw the wire through this pinch? what happens? the wire winds up forming a big curve, it's no longer straight because one side of the wire winds up getting stressed more than the other, this is what happens at the first point of deflection at this approach angle meeting a slight change in direction, this forms compression or adhesion... what this does is not only stack the wraps but it makes them want to naturally pull into each other the way drawing a straight wire through your finger pinched to a tool causes the wire to curve

the second bit of mandrel forming happens right after the first but on a different plane and that's the one that turns a straight wire into a coil. in the pic I drew the bottom shows the first bit of stress forming while the top shows the second forming which is actually forming the straight wire into a coil

as far as using this for twisted wire I think that the twisted may be much harder on the leather, almost like a saw tooth action, forget about twisted ribbon like MM, that'll shred the leather to bits I think, the reason why the leather works so well is because it causes friction which increases the tension but it doesn't get damaged because the wire drawn over it is so smooth, start introducing jagged bumps of twisted and all bets are off, light gauge twisted prolly be ok, like twisted 32, twisted 30, but heavier I'm thinking will probably cause the leather to deteriorate rapidly. I haven't tried any twisted with this

You're right about multi wire. Because of the reliance on the tool compression for strain. Likely to distort any twist, for example. And parallel would likely need to be notched by wire gauge. I guess I'm wondering about the consistency of elongation across varying wire gauges and whether enough. That's not to say that the tool couldn't be used as I suggest. Also that a different might be an alternative to leather. No doubt you are getting some strain in your winds although I didn't think you were relying exclusively on the tools grip for it. Thx T for the diagrams.

:) G'luck.
 

super_X_drifter

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wilson that thing looks great. simple compact, self contained and portable


russ I figured out a way to make a 2mm spinner without having any longer 2mm rods. this way I only needed a 2mm drill bit for the coil wrapping tip :)

I also made an aluminum handle so the thin rod doesn't poke into your palm, ill make one for the 2.4 also cause it does kinda drill into my palm a bit :) it's like butter with the handle though :)

20150530_005822_zps79tyvgdb.jpg



20150530_005833_zps75siilsh.jpg



20150530_005848_zpshlal3hop.jpg



20150530_010002_zpsfmprgsco.jpg

Thank you for the awesomeness Turbo. Yesterday, I received the kit you so graciously made me. They really are well thought, beautifully made and very amazing little tools - herein referred to as the TURBOwinder Deluxe and abbreviated to TD.

As soon as I had time last night I set out to use the TD. I rebuilt 2 dual coil attys with it - an Odin V2 and a CAM Rogue. Here is a little sequence I shot on my iPhone - the first part with a little chatting and then a double speed part of build 2.

Very amazed by the results this produces. I will make a little tutorial this weekend of how I used it to make solid cylinders of tensioned wire that far exceed any effort I'd previously attempted. You can't see light thru these coils and the winds stay together - they don't separate when the coil is manipulated - notice the absence of any leg bends on both of these builds.



Thank you man. I hope the footage speaks for itself :)
 

turbocad6

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ha, awesome, and I didn't even get a chance to send you any kind of instructions yet :) I do have a few tips on it's use I'll send you later but seems you're doing ok with it so far. I'd def like to give you some pointers though before you go making a tutorial on it


now, after seeing coil wrapping from my perspective, maybe you can see why the desk mounted crank handle and the sawed off fishing rig was just so damn funny to me brother :lol: I'm glad I was able to design that clamp to be able to share this with you guys, I was never able to have anyone "get it" when I was just trying to show people how to do this with just pinching it with you fingertips but now the clamp makes it almost foolproof for anyone :)
 
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AllPepperS

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So Turbo, I got the stuff to make the clamp. What is the handle part? or do you think maybe (Russ) this could work with the Gizmo?
Where would I source parts for the handle, I have the rod. Or could the Gizmo be the handle (since I have that sitting here)

Great stuff guys!!
 

turbocad6

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I haven't put anything out there yet for making the spinner handle but I'll try to do that this weekend. I've already come up with an easy way for anyone to do it, just have to document it for you guys... the clamp will work with other things but other things will require you to go-stop go-stop etc, it may work ok too, but it works much better when you can spool it up in one shot
 
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