The new caravela clone sigelei 8w

[Scope666]

Good things are:
1. It's a $40 clone at worst not a $200 Caravela
2. You didn't destroy the main tube so you're actually lucky there
3. You are only out like $10 bucks for a switch

Cheer up man we all screw things up from time to time, that's why I buy clones so I won't cry as hard when I do F things up haha. I screwed up on my EHPro EA Clone but luckily I was able to fix my mistakes so I know how you feel.

Thanks for that ... the only reason I was ...... was at myself, I could have just "accepted" having the little extension at the top and lived with it, but my stupid perfectionist nature led me down the road of destroying the damn switch... so I was mad at myself for that ... but I'm over it now.


BTW the only reason I was even using the damn thing was because I have a few 500 batteries, and they kind of ride the line between good battery life and smaller mod size.

 

[State O' Flux]

BTW the only reason I was even using the damn thing was because I have a few 500 batteries, and they kind of ride the line between good battery life and smaller mod size.

Annoying little line... ain't it.

 

[Scope666]

Thanks for that ... the only reason I was ...... was at myself, I could have just "accepted" having the little extension at the top and lived with it, but my stupid perfectionist nature led me down the road of destroying the damn switch... so I was mad at myself for that ... but I'm over it now.


BTW the only reason I was even using the damn thing was because I have a few 500 batteries, and they kind of ride the line between good battery life and smaller mod size.

So update on this whole thing... I spoke with a nice woman at Vaportek, she's shipping me out a new switch no charge, which is pretty awesome. She also agreed this "mystery" Kick / 15 mm extension tube probably should not have even been in the box. They will check existing stock to avoid this problem in the future. Kudos to Vaportek for making it right.

 

[State O' Flux]

So update on this whole thing... I spoke with a nice woman at Vaportek, she's shipping me out a new switch no charge, which is pretty awesome. She also agreed this "mystery" Kick / 15 mm extension tube probably should not have even been in the box. They will check existing stock to avoid this problem in the future. Kudos to Vaportek for making it right.

You can give them a nice "atta' boy" in their reviews section. ;-)

 

[Scope666]

You can give them a nice "atta' boy" in their reviews section. ;-)

Definitely will do.

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

So update on this whole thing... I spoke with a nice woman at Vaportek, she's shipping me out a new switch no charge, which is pretty awesome. She also agreed this "mystery" Kick / 15 mm extension tube probably should not have even been in the box. They will check existing stock to avoid this problem in the future. Kudos to Vaportek for making it right.

Knew something wasn't right there, in all the sites carrying the 8w's, i never saw a kick ring.

Glad to hear they're making it right!

Now back to sanding on my bottle-cap gouged button.

 

[Scope666]

Knew something wasn't right there, in all the sites carrying the 8w's, i never saw a kick ring.

Glad to hear they're making it right!

Now back to sanding on my bottle-cap gouged button.

... and no more opening beer bottles with the Sigelei for you! ;-)

 

[Peppie]

There was a small detail that made using the locking ring APITA. The button,locking ring,and switch housing were all the same diam.
Sure made it difficult to put pressure on the locking ring if it was engaged or un-engaged.
I took the assembly apart, marked approx 1/16'' around the circum. of the fire button with a marker and took it to the disk sander.
Then I took the upper switch housing and chapfered the edge closest to the locking ring. (just a smidge)

Now I am able to pressure were it is needed. On the locking ring. This also helped in not over tightening

Sorry for the crap pics. but you can see







Hope these are the correct pics, PhotoB is giving me fits. I hate that service

 

[Scope666]

There was a small detail that made using the locking ring APITA. The button,locking ring,and switch housing were all the same diam.
Sure made it difficult to put pressure on the locking ring if it was engaged or un-engaged.
I took the assembly apart, marked approx 1/16'' around the circum. of the fire button with a marker and took it to the disk sander.
Then I took the upper switch housing and chapfered the edge closest to the locking ring. (just a smidge)

Now I am able to pressure were it is needed. On the locking ring. This also helped in not over tightening

Sorry for the crap pics. but you can see







Hope these are the correct pics, PhotoB is giving me fits. I hate that service

Looks good! That actually makes a lot of sense. They did the opposite on the Chi You and it works well... locking ring is a little wider and has grooves around it to make it really easy.

 

[Peppie]

The only issue I had with the CYC is the whole switch assemb. wanted to unscrew when I used the lock ring, I added a few drops of blue Loce-Tite on the housing. No more problem there. I will try to back off that housing in a few days just to see how hard it will be to release the Loc-Tite. I may have made a mistake. LOL

 

[djslik]

So is there any other brass top cap other than the Nzonic one that will work with this? I'm really not digging the removable portion for the ego threads. Whenever I polish the mod stuff gets gunked up between the ego cap and base threads, then I have to separate the 2 and clean inside. Everything else is great, well reverse thread lock would be nice too.

 

[State O' Flux]

Brass 8W (Cara' clone) top cap.

 

[simate]

Sigelei spares are in stock at Celtic Vapes. I just ordered an 8W switch and 19 brass top cap

 

[Scope666]

Guys, does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the voltage more consistent out of the 8W? I feel like the "power" of the vape is inconsistent. On a scale of 1 to 10, I get a 10 once in awhile, but many hits are like a 6 if that makes any sense. I'm trying to consistently press the center of the switch, but it doesn't seem to help.

Would love to hear of any improvements you guys made to get it more solid. Right now my Chi-you clone is doing a WAY better job than the 8W, but I want to try to get this guy up to par.



EDIT: OK, think I figured it out. Took apart the switch and their was some nasty residue that had built up on the button piece, as well as the walls of the receptacle part of the switch. Went through a bunch of grades of sandpaper ending up at 2500, and it seems much better now. Still need to hit the Depot and get some Noalox.

 

[State O' Flux]

Guys, does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the voltage more consistent out of the 8W? I feel like the "power" of the vape is inconsistent. On a scale of 1 to 10, I get a 10 once in awhile, but many hits are like a 6 if that makes any sense. I'm trying to consistently press the center of the switch, but it doesn't seem to help.

All IMO of course. Everyone has their own routine. ;-)

Mine is... with any and all save those that already have perfect contacts - and assuming you've already adjusted the button throw and filed down the contacts to dead flat - sand the contacts with 600, 1000 & 2000 grit W&D paper. Clean everything with IPA - twice. Thin layer of Noalox, burnished into the threads and contacts - wipe off the excess from exposed areas with IPA. You want to stay ahead of tarnish and corrosion that can increase resistance. Once the contacts are smooth, a bit of metal polish, well buffed off, will keep the corrosion at bay.

This may seem bordering on the OCD, but... If there is a good amount of radial clearance between button shaft and "bushing"... I'll take some of it up in an attempt to get a clearance (with smooth, unimpeded travel) down to around .004" - .005".
I use super thin wall shrink tubing on insulated shafts and copper foil tape on uninsulated shafts. The idea there is to insure a radial contact. I don't know if it's genuinely beneficial (and may in fact be a complete waste of time ), but I like the idea of giving the current path every possible chance. This is after I've removed all the adhesive.

 

[t2ak]

Just ordered a 8w with both the 18650 and 18350 tubes from vaportek.

just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the R&D! well done! man, that was a few pages .

now off to stalk the mail man.

 

[State O' Flux]

Have fun... If you get bored, they look great when you heat-color the ss tubes. ;-)

 

[t2ak]

Have fun... If you get bored, they look great when you heat-color the ss tubes. ;-)

funny you should say that..

 

[State O' Flux]

The next tubes I do, I'll be doing them in the oven at a measured 530 degrees... for a medium purple. Be nice if I could reach a steady 575 in the oven for a blue, bit mine just won't reach it.

 

[t2ak]

I have done it a few times with various objects. 530 sounds a bit high. i pulled this list from a old machinist book my grandfather gave me.

Pale Yellow----300°F
Bright Yellow—350°F
Straw Yellow---400°F
Dark Straw Yellow--425°F
Bronze------------450°F
Purple------------475°F
Violet------------500°F
Dark Blue-------525°F
Light Blue------550°F
”Clear” (Very Light) Blue---575°F

i usually start at the minimum of what color i want or the next one at a lower temp, then if needed bumb it up in 10 degree increments. this all depends on the steel though.

i think with the #8w, since tubes are cheap, i am going to attempt some designs into the coloring. only problem is i have only done it on flat pieces before, never anything round. hopefully the wax will not run.