The new caravela clone sigelei 8w

[White Rabbit]

I am jealous guys. My 8W - 18350 is not due to be delivered until tomorrow. Yeah vape Mail!

I found an awards / plaque company that will laser engrave any jpg file onto the chrome tube for $10. Originally was thinking of having the little ship etched on, but that would be a little cheesy since it really is not a Caravella. Now thinking of a dragon or Celtic symbol.

Wabbit

 

[Thraizer]

Celtic symbol is a nice touch! I was thinking of the same thing, laser engraving. Egyptian hieroglyphics would also look great on the tube.

 

[PinoyBoy]

Now thinking of a dragon or Celtic symbol.

That would look beautiful. Something like this (clicky) or a band on the bottom like the iHybrid Celtic LE?

 

[Blackfire]

I just got mine today! seems to work pretty well out of the box, but the button is way too stiff... It was hell taking it apart because of some sort of thread lock on the threads on the button and center pin. I heated it with a torch; i heated it on the bottom just enough... good luck I've damaged my button already...

 

[Pazazu]

Yeah the bottom pin on the switch is really tight, most likely heavily glued or something. I adjusted the tiny screw on the head on mine to get the rattle out, seems to be working fine and no rattles. Are you on the 18350 tube?

No sir, I'm on the 18650 tube. Using Aw IMR.
I can either use a safety fuse with no rattle but top cap is a bit loose, or use no safety fuse and crank out the adjustable screw a bit more than I like.

I'm going to pick up a fusion hybrid kit, ad also a sigelei 19 brass, put this switch and the fusion hybrid kit on the brass battery tube. Once that is done this thing should hti like a beast. It has a nice fat bottom contact in this caravela switch.

I guarantee this mod will hit as well as a Chi You, perhaps even better if you do the steps I said above.

 

[White Rabbit]

My Review - The Sigelei 8W - 18350 Caravella Clone

My first impression is that it is quite small for a $30 mod. It is not telescoping so what you see is what you get. Either 18350 or you can order the 18650 tube for $7.00 from Vaportech. From the pictures below, you can see that even with an Artemas Tank on top, it is only as tall as my Vamo without anything on top. Finish (Chrome and Gold) seems good. I will have to see how it holds up.

Initially it would not fire my Artemas Tanks unless I removed the gold cap which covers an additional E-Go thread. The Gold Cap was too tall. I had to take it out to my shop and file off about 1/32 inch off of the bottom of the cap. That allowed the 510 connection to protrude more and fire the tanks. They still fit flush and look good, but it does not say much for quality control. The threads appear well machined and work well.

The fire button is on the bottom and it is quite hard to fire. It requires a lot of effort to push in before you can get the coil to warm up. Once it fires, it does an excellent job and hits fine. I hope the spring breaks in and it becomes easier on the pinkie which is the best way to fire it. It has a lock, but will stand on end without firing which I was worried about.

Would I recommend it? NO - The KTS Storm original or new flat top is a much better deal. They are selling for under $20 now and for a pure mechanical it is a no brainer. The KTS Storm has a telescoping section, so it will use almost any size battery from an 18350 on up to the 18650.

 

[Mozzer]

I just received the #8w today, and I already have the #8. I quite like the #8, for the money, except for the side button. I hoped the #8w would be the same but with a bottom switch. That, as you all know, was not the case.

The #8 is more adjustable in the top cap, and can be easily set to have your atomiser sit flush. I've used both the RSST and the AC9, and they sit flush. They would really look great if they were the same diameter. The atomisers are a couple of mm smaller.

With the #8w, however, I have not been able to adjust it so that the atomisers sit flush. This is particularly glaring with the AC9, which has a longer stem. The gap is unsightly. I have similar problem with the 18650 tube and end caps. There's not enough adjustability to achieve a gapless connection on top and bottom. It's a very small gap, and not really noticeable, but the #8 does not have this problem at all.

If anyone figures out how to adjust the top cap to be shorter, please let me know. I looked at it, and there is a brass screw that allows you to extend it, but I need to go the other way and shorten it. The brass firing pin may be threaded, but it's not slotted to accommodate a screwdriver, so I don't know. I tried turning it, but with no luck.

One thing that did surprise me about the #8w was the minimal voltage drop right out of the box. I measured it at 0.2v with my RSST. That's up there with the Nemesis and Caravela for conductivity. It a hard hitter, indeed. The #8 by comparison, dropped 0.35 after removing the spring. Still very respectable for the money. It was a whopping 1.0v drop with the spring. Both mods have all brass contacts.

I also agree with the complaints about the bottom switch spring being too stiff, and the button is a little bit sloppy. So far it has never misfired, though, and I'm hesitant to mess with it considering the excellent conductivity as is. I just hope the spring will soften up a bit over time.

 

[Blackfire]

I just received the #8w today, and I already have the #8. I quite like the #8, for the money, except for the side button. I hoped the #8w would be the same but with a bottom switch. That, as you all know, was not the case.

The #8 is more adjustable in the top cap, and can be easily set to have your atomiser sit flush. I've used both the RSST and the AC9, and they sit flush. They would really look great if they were the same diameter. The atomisers are a couple of mm smaller.

With the #8w, however, I have not been able to adjust it so that the atomisers sit flush. This is particularly glaring with the AC9, which has a longer stem. The gap is unsightly. I have similar problem with the 18650 tube and end caps. There's not enough adjustability to achieve a gapless connection on top and bottom. It's a very small gap, and not really noticeable, but the #8 does not have this problem at all.

If anyone figures out how to adjust the top cap to be shorter, please let me know. I looked at it, and there is a brass screw that allows you to extend it, but I need to go the other way and shorten it. The brass firing pin may be threaded, but it's not slotted to accommodate a screwdriver, so I don't know. I tried turning it, but with no luck.

One thing that did surprise me about the #8w was the minimal voltage drop right out of the box. I measured it at 0.2v with my RSST. That's up there with the Nemesis and Caravela for conductivity. It a hard hitter, indeed. The #8 by comparison, dropped 0.35 after removing the spring. Still very respectable for the money. It was a whopping 1.0v drop with the spring. Both mods have all brass contacts.

I also agree with the complaints about the bottom switch spring being too stiff, and the button is a little bit sloppy. So far it has never misfired, though, and I'm hesitant to mess with it considering the excellent conductivity as is. I just hope the spring will soften up a bit over time.

I have just shorten the top cap to the shortest possible height today, it took a lot of work to get it just right... my tools were assorted files carto, 1/4" bolt and nut, washers, rubber washers, o-ring, power drill. Its about 9mm tall with both caps together. I also got the bottom switch off and just cut the spring to lighten switch. It's a bit late I will try to get some photos up tomorrow... Also I have the 18350 and have no issues with the batteries rattling flat top or button.

 

[White Rabbit]

Quote from Mozzer "With the #8w, however, I have not been able to adjust it so that the atomisers sit flush. This is particularly glaring with the AC9, which has a longer stem. The gap is unsightly. I have similar problem with the 18650 tube and end caps. There's not enough adjustability to achieve a gapless connection on top and bottom. It's a very small gap, and not really noticeable, but the #8 does not have this problem at all."

Not quite sure what you are describing here. The small screw, inside the top cap is for battery adjustment and should not affect the height of the top cap. It seems your problem is the opposite of what mine was. My flat bottomed Artemas Tanks would not fit sufficiently tight against the top cap to achieve electrical contact. I solved that by removing the top cap and filing off the bottom thread area about 1/32 inch (just a guess). That allowed the top cap to sit "lower", thereby exposing more of the 510 connector and achieving electrical contact with the tank. All is well in that area.

You seem to be saying that their is a gap between your 8W top cap and the bottom of your tank? If that is the case, you should unscrew the top cap 1/4 turn at a time until the gap is gone (if I am understanding your description).

I would also appreciate anyone advising me how to disassemble the top cap in a manner that will not ruin the finish so that I may install a softer spring if possible. I also used a Dremel Tool and buffing wheel to shine up the brass top and bottom, then put some wax on it to inhibit tarnish. I think it looks a lot better polished.

Thanks
Wabbit

 

[Mozzer]

Not quite sure what you are describing here. The small screw, inside the top cap is for battery adjustment and should not affect the height of the top cap. It seems your problem is the opposite of what mine was. My flat bottomed Artemas Tanks would not fit sufficiently tight against the top cap to achieve electrical contact. I solved that by removing the top cap and filing off the bottom thread area about 1/32 inch (just a guess). That allowed the top cap to sit "lower", thereby exposing more of the 510 connector and achieving electrical contact with the tank. All is well in that area.

You seem to be saying that their is a gap between your 8W top cap and the bottom of your tank? If that is the case, you should unscrew the top cap 1/4 turn at a time until the gap is gone (if I am understanding your description).

On the #8, the brass screw in the top cap is actually the center pin. To attach an atomiser, I just back out the screw a bit, then screw on the atty until it's flush, then turn the screw until it stops. This screw also adjusts the battery, so you compensate in the bottom cap. In this way all seams are perfect top to bottom.

On the #8w, the screw in the top cap is for battery adjustment only. If I unscrew the top cap cover, I'll simply have a gap exposing the threads. I need to be able to lower the center pin, but I don't see a way to do that.

Thanks for your reply

 

[White Rabbit]

Here is an excellent piece by piece review of the 8W

SIGELEI 8W / "CARAVELLA CLONE" FROM: VAPOR TEK USA - YouTube

Wabbit

 

[Mozzer]

Here is an excellent piece by piece review of the 8W

SIGELEI 8W / "CARAVELLA CLONE" FROM: VAPOR TEK USA - YouTube

Wabbit

Yah, he seems to confirm that the center pin in the top cap is not "floating". I still wonder if it can be lowered in the threaded insulator by grabbing the brass with some pliers.

His findings were the same as mine in terms of voltage drop - around 0.2. It really is great in that regard.

Thanks for the link!

 

[Thraizer]

That's what I did on mine, unscrewed the center pin out and screwed my rsst or chimbus and screwed the center pin back in and everything is flushed with no gaps.

 

[Mozzer]

That's what I did on mine, unscrewed the center pin out and screwed my rsst or chimbus and screwed the center pin back in and everything is flushed with no gaps.

Yep, that did the trick, thanks. Now I just need a buttonless IMR, cos now there's a gap where the bottom cap threads. There's not enough room for a buttoned 18650. I tried just removing the battery adjuster screw on top, but then it didn't make a connection. No worries, it will be perfect with the buttonless battery.

 

[Blackfire]

I thought I share this....

 

[TryinToQuit]

^That thing is begging for a hybrid mod...

Cant wait to get mine!!

 

[White Rabbit]

Well a lot of us have received our 8ws by now. Any other commentary would be welcomed guys and gals. Haven't done a lot of modding on mine except polishing up the brass so it shines and put a coat of auto polish on it. The bottom firing spring seems to be easing up. Either that or my fingers are becoming much stronger. That is one strong spring.

Keep on posting info.

Wabbit

 

[Fullknight]

I really like mine. I still think Kanger T2,T3,MT3,are the best. I use Protank valleyviewvapes carto tanks also. I like the option to use any type without adapters. It is also nice quality smooth threads,fires every time. I use a Kick in mine. Very satisfied.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[White Rabbit]

I ordered a safety fuse to be delivered with mine from Exhale Vapors, but it was not included. Now they say it was shipped but the tracking number is over one year old and USPS says it was delivered in 2012 to someone in Mass. Someone told me they are reusing tracking numbers, so this is not very helpful. In the meantime I am only using carto tanks on my 8W so things should be OK. The firing spring is still pretty tight and I don't want to try opening the whole firing mechanism so I hope it will loosen up with use.

Wabbit

Update: Rechecked the tracking number today and it is now showing that my safety fuse will be delivered Saturday 7/27/2013. Obviously USPS is reusing tracking numbers which really leads to confusion.

 

[backsplash]

I had the same problem with tracking numbers from them, but I did get my order the next day.