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So can you confirm that the 8w is steel as some people think its crome plated brass? And were did you buy yours from? Thanks.
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I got mine from Vaportek, and I am fairly certain that it's just a polished SS tube. I gave it a good sanding, didn't go through any layers of anything, and the finish matches my RSST perfectly.
Thanks mate i have one also from vapertek i was sure it was ss anyway as the inside is all silver as well cheers. looks good mate 
Very simply. Just sanded down the black ring in the bottom section.
Be careful not to sand too far!
Be careful not to sand too far!
View attachment 237573
I'm definitely getting another #8w and ithaka clonei put an SG-1 between my ithy clone and 8w body. Steel tanks have already been ordered...
update: I took off the section above the clear window of Ithaka and the top cap threads onto the window! i read that the oddy mouthpiece is a lil shorter and you lose 2mm of juice control adjustment (i don't get that juicy)... definitely ordering one of those to complete my super shortmode ithaka 8w
Where did you order the steel tank from?
Nice little mod, dont love the play/throw of the bottom button, but will likely tweak it as mentioned above. The overly large top cap (due to ego threads) looks better than i was expecting.
For size reference of the 18350 tube:
Now i just need my IBTanked Halfling to slap on it and it should be perfect for the pocket.
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I got a couple steel tanks from a guy on facebook for $45 shipped from Greece.
the halfling 22 looks great on the 8w! I have an hh357 in mine, got the polished ss caps. it looks a LOT better without the topcap imo.
Also ordered one from 101 Vape earlier today with 20%off coupon.. not sure if it still works but the code was july20off. Total with an igo-w was like $40.
My first mechanical mod (i'm a noob but i've done my homework. Multimeter, IMRs and fuse ready). Does anyone know if a fuse will fit with a button top 18350 in this?
My first mechanical mod (i'm a noob but i've done my homework. Multimeter, IMRs and fuse ready). Does anyone know if a fuse will fit with a button top 18350 in this?
For all you people that have the #8w 18650 and the #19 I have a #19 with an extra button and top cap I was wondering if I just get the #8w tube and use the button and top cap off the #19 will a battery still fit I notice it looks a bit shorter then the #19 tube.
Edit: I was thinking of getting a 18650 tube or will the tube fit the inner tube of the 19 to hide the gap when using the 19 in 18650 mode. Or should I just bite the bullet and just get an 18650 mod that gap bothers me. Its just that I have these extra top cap and buttons for the 19 and they sell the 8w tubes for $8.
Edit: I was thinking of getting a 18650 tube or will the tube fit the inner tube of the 19 to hide the gap when using the 19 in 18650 mode. Or should I just bite the bullet and just get an 18650 mod that gap bothers me. Its just that I have these extra top cap and buttons for the 19 and they sell the 8w tubes for $8.
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Should be room.
I don't think the 8W tube is long enough. The battery sticks out.
Bro- You rock! Thanks for sharing that code. I was able to get the new Kanger Pro Tank 2 from them which is going to look sweet on this mod. It was $18 after shipping.
A couple opinions based on the 1 i just received:
-It feels great in the hand.
-The threads are super good. They make this almost smooth "zipping" type of sound because they are so smooth. i dont know how else to describe it.
-it hits hard
-it looks awesome in 18350 mode with a nimbus on top.
Problems:
-The top cap is overly big because of the lame ego threads, i dont like that it is a 2 piece either, it makes it feel cheaper.
-the button
-the button
-the button
The button is stiff and kind of grindy to push. Its the worse part of the whole mech. As soon as i find the right pliers to disassemble the button assembly, im replacing the spring and polishing the sides of the button.
-It feels great in the hand.
-The threads are super good. They make this almost smooth "zipping" type of sound because they are so smooth. i dont know how else to describe it.
-it hits hard
-it looks awesome in 18350 mode with a nimbus on top.
Problems:
-The top cap is overly big because of the lame ego threads, i dont like that it is a 2 piece either, it makes it feel cheaper.
-the button
-the button
-the button
The button is stiff and kind of grindy to push. Its the worse part of the whole mech. As soon as i find the right pliers to disassemble the button assembly, im replacing the spring and polishing the sides of the button.
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Placed an order today for one at vapor tek. I also got the 350 tube with it. Shipped and should be here Monday. Cant wait!
Does anyone have some picks of their sanded buttons to shorten the throw?
Does anyone have some picks of their sanded buttons to shorten the throw?
This is just a guess, but i believe once you break the glue free on the bottom pin, it will be able to adjust in and out slightly to effect the throw. Not sure yet, i got mine a tiny bit loose, but its still glued in tight, and it def shortened the throw a bit.
Here you go:
You may be right, but loosening the screw may also just leave you with a loose button. I'm sure we'll find out. Personally I just couldn't be bothered to take the switch assembly apart, and don't mind making it a permanent mod.
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There's actually a double screw in the top cap. What I do is the following - without adjusting the bottom pin at all:
- Back the bigger diameter screw in the top cap out until the atty sits flush. Note: it's kind of hard to grab the bigger one, I just use my fingernails.
- With the atty on and flush, tighten the bigger one until it's firm. Again, with my nails.
- If there's any battery rattle, back out the smaller / inner screw until the rattle is gone
Works well, with all seams in the tube flush, as well as the atty, and all with great conductivity.
Edit: I quoted the wrong reply, so I just removed it. The above info is for those who are trying to adjust battery clearance with the bottom pin / button.
- Back the bigger diameter screw in the top cap out until the atty sits flush. Note: it's kind of hard to grab the bigger one, I just use my fingernails.
- With the atty on and flush, tighten the bigger one until it's firm. Again, with my nails.
- If there's any battery rattle, back out the smaller / inner screw until the rattle is gone
Works well, with all seams in the tube flush, as well as the atty, and all with great conductivity.
Edit: I quoted the wrong reply, so I just removed it. The above info is for those who are trying to adjust battery clearance with the bottom pin / button.
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