Very impressive... Have you thought of marketing some of those? Go for it, who knows this could be BIG!
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Dan,
I'm still waiting on the drawings. The guy is doing them in his spare time as a favor, so I don't want to push him. I'll post my drawings when I get hone tonight, and will post when I get a quote.
Q4mK
I'm still waiting on the drawings. The guy is doing them in his spare time as a favor, so I don't want to push him. I'll post my drawings when I get hone tonight, and will post when I get a quote.
Q4mK
I havent been doing any modding yet but very interested in pursuing considering the ridiculous pricing of mods etc. Im wondering are you guys getting the battery connectors from failed batteries or ordering them online somewhere?? This is the only part that I need to start fiddling with my own contraptions. Very nice job to dan and all who have already completed these sweet mods.
Heaven's Gifts has all the batt to attomizer conversions for $1.99 a piece now....
E-cig Multi Adapters - Wholesale & Retail Best E-smoking Supplier
I really like the RCA connectors, but it seem pointless now...
42109 - So what do you use for the switch?
xx-evolution - For mine I used the atty connector from my first starter kit, that battery was already dead, but if you don't have any go to heavengifts
Dan, I have a question about your mini-mag charger. Do you think I could use the DR7000LI, cut like yours, to put in a 2AA box mod? I would run the pos and neg from charge board to the bat terminals, then I would run the bat to a switch to the rca plug. I know you said it will not work as PT but could it be used as an effective charger inside a mod. I have a digipower JS1-V3 that would work but it will not fit in a 2AA box I will have to get a 3AA minimum for it to work. I am looking to make the box the smallest yet most effective possible. I have already done the Codfish mod to the digipower unit but I am concerned for when the supplied battery finally runs out of recharges.
It should work, let me get a Y adapter and connect two, when it shuts off I will disconnect each and see if one continues to charge or if they are both fully charged. Since the PCB might stop charging when one is full.
Will report back as soon as possible.
Dan
ADDED:
Good news using a Y adapter I had one that was fully charged and one that was almost dead. When I connected the full one it when green, when I connected the dead one it went red. So I put two on that were dead and will check to see if they both charge. BTW these are both protected batteries.
more to come...
Dan
ADDED:
Yep both batteries now have full charges using a Y connector. So this simulated a parallel connection and both when reconnected individually get a green status. So they both charged. I would say the PCB board will work fine for charging dual parallel batteries.
Dan
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i posted this on another thread but im new and didnt realize it was realy old sorry if posting here is bad
im new so i cant start a new thread hope you guys dont mind if i ask two questions first question i found a phone charger for a palm treo for a dollar its output is 4.8vdc and 750mA i know the voltage is nice but is the amps enough if you wanted to make a pass threw that plugged into the wall second question to be honest i ordered my first ecig yesterday (vk kr8) havent ever even seen one ive smoked heavily for 16 yrs and have cronic bronchitis ive done enough research to know im going to love it (ecig) the next question is partly just observation im bad about being short on cash so i thought if my battery broke without a back up couldnt i drip juice into a glass bubble pipe and heat with a lighter till i moded or got in a new battery. ill try it my self just thought id throw that out there to see if anyone has already tried it. i do have to say the first question about the amps is important to me. thanks for your time
i posted this on another thread but im new and didnt realize it was realy old sorry if posting here is bad
im new so i cant start a new thread hope you guys dont mind if i ask two questions first question i found a phone charger for a palm treo for a dollar its output is 4.8vdc and 750mA i know the voltage is nice but is the amps enough if you wanted to make a pass threw that plugged into the wall second question to be honest i ordered my first ecig yesterday (vk kr8) havent ever even seen one ive smoked heavily for 16 yrs and have cronic bronchitis ive done enough research to know im going to love it (ecig) the next question is partly just observation im bad about being short on cash so i thought if my battery broke without a back up couldnt i drip juice into a glass bubble pipe and heat with a lighter till i moded or got in a new battery. ill try it my self just thought id throw that out there to see if anyone has already tried it. i do have to say the first question about the amps is important to me. thanks for your time
Quit4mykids was talking about having RCA to "XXX" adaptors machined without switches at maybe as much as $25.00 a unit.
So far my mods have switches built in and I think it would be just as easy now, to build them with a standard battery connector and use an HG adaptor. I haven't spent $25.00 on a mod yet, much less a connector.
For someone who is just starting to build mods, it's shorter, simpler, cleaner... I doubt if I will switch because I already have RCA adaptors for all my atomizers, unless I just want to swap standard batts. But for someone new to modding, it's much simpler to go with the adaptors.
Keep in mind, Warp came up with this because there weren't adaptors available. Just like Nerf sold batt connectors because no one else did...
Necessity is the Mother of invention.
THANKS WARP!!
This has to do with the added resistance inline with the rca jacks. For some reason, this increases the heat across the factory switch and the switch itself fails. Most likely these factory switches are cheap and of an even lessor quality than Radio Shack.
I hate to say this, guys, whenever you add resistance to a load or circuit you lower the current to the switch to handle. What you need to do is use a switch with higher ampere rating. At least 3 amps. The higher amp battery capability is not the cause of the problem. It only magnified the inadequacies of the circuit's components and it is the SWITCH. Switch to a different switch, Nick.
I just got tired of my RCA switch cause the ones that are available at my local RS are too bad quality made (the ones that are built with good quality are just too big for this purpose) and the main problem with them is that the male rca connector just needs less than ¼ of a turn to get loose from the barrel where the switch is, so I had to constantly check it out to see if it was tight enough, I even had a couple of short circuit problems (my batteries didn’t vented but they really got hot very soon)
So I made a new switch out of an old 901 battery and three 510 connectors (two female and one male)
The first step was to add a 510 female connector to the body of the mini mag, so I had to bore out the light bulb end of the body with a file, enough for the 510 connector to be press-fitted in there:
So I made a new switch out of an old 901 battery and three 510 connectors (two female and one male)
The first step was to add a 510 female connector to the body of the mini mag, so I had to bore out the light bulb end of the body with a file, enough for the 510 connector to be press-fitted in there:
The next step was to make the switch. For this I used an old 901 battery pipe, the reason to use a 901 is because the distance from the connector end of the pipe to the switch hole is exactly what I needed, so I just had to cut the other end to the proper size (with a pipe cutter). So in one end I inserted a male connector from an old 510 atty and a 510 female on the other side. Between them I put a RS switch (the ones with two legs) and in this case I had to solder the switch to both connectors center posts. And I mounted the switch on the same black plastic thing where the original 901 mini switch was mounted, I just had to cut it to the same size of the switch and file the sides of it, cause the RS swith is too wide to go in there and hot glued the switch to the black plastic thing. And here is the resulting switch:
Sounds good if you utilized the whole circuit module from the old battery otherwise the switch will burn-up prematurely. You see, the switch is just used as a trigger to turn on a power transistor. I hope it works for you.
NICO
NICO
Warp,
This is a very good idea for making compatibility easy. I have done a few mods based on this RCA idea, but simplified it even more by putting the switch on the main connector piece so that all your power sources can be straight thru power with absolutely no switching to worry about. A USB cable conversion takes 5 minutes... just snip the length you want and solder power/gnd and you're done. Take a flashlight (I use a Romisen) chop the top off, solder 2 wires to a female RCA and you're done. I did the Romisen in 15 minutes, and the USB cable in 5 minutes. The connector was simple also and only took about 15 minutes. It makes it much easier because you dont have to worry about installing switches on ANY of your power sources. I'm just using a tactile switch and so far I haven't had any problems with them. If my switch becomes a problem I only have to correct it once, and I don't have to worry about replacing switches on all my power sources. Everything is plug and play with RCA. Great idea. It's not that hard to add a switch to everything, but I figure you're always going to want to add more power sources, and your connector is essential, so I put the switch on the connector and can use it for anything.
This is a very good idea for making compatibility easy. I have done a few mods based on this RCA idea, but simplified it even more by putting the switch on the main connector piece so that all your power sources can be straight thru power with absolutely no switching to worry about. A USB cable conversion takes 5 minutes... just snip the length you want and solder power/gnd and you're done. Take a flashlight (I use a Romisen) chop the top off, solder 2 wires to a female RCA and you're done. I did the Romisen in 15 minutes, and the USB cable in 5 minutes. The connector was simple also and only took about 15 minutes. It makes it much easier because you dont have to worry about installing switches on ANY of your power sources. I'm just using a tactile switch and so far I haven't had any problems with them. If my switch becomes a problem I only have to correct it once, and I don't have to worry about replacing switches on all my power sources. Everything is plug and play with RCA. Great idea. It's not that hard to add a switch to everything, but I figure you're always going to want to add more power sources, and your connector is essential, so I put the switch on the connector and can use it for anything.
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