The Womper Woom, Womp it again Sam.

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Lessifer

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I know the Coppervape looks really nice, inexpensive, but then you need to get your own topper. I guess I looks at the Pico squonker as more of a test device of "will I even like the whole squonk lifestyle?". I'm sure if I do I'd get a different topper and probably a different squonker as well, but the low entry price of the Pico Squeeze means no kicking myself on something that ends up in the back of the drawer if it bombs (along with other stuff like that).
The problem is, any squonker can only be as good as the atomizer you put on top of it. So, find something as close to your favorite rda with a bottom feed pin as you can get.

There are some differences though depending on how you vape. Not all bf atties are made equal.

I have a velocity(v2 I think) that came with a bf pin, it's a great cloud chucking atty, if that's your thing, but it SUCKS for bf. The reason why it sucks is, the bf pin comes up from the deck a few mm, so it doesn't drain at all. That's not so much of a problem if you like putting lots of cotton in your RDAs, but that kind of defeats the purpose IMO. I prefer small chamber rda's, and I use as little wick as I can possibly get away with. This means I need something that I can "over-squonk" that will drain back down. A deep well on a bf atty is a waste. Bottom airflow, though some like it, will probably cause leaking issues.

My all time favorite is a derringer, but they have to be converted. The RM2 from REO is great for single coil, but you have to drill out the air hole. I think the derringer V3 can be converted by just swapping out the center pin with a bf center pin, but I'm not sure on that.
 

Sir Kadly

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    I know the Coppervape looks really nice, inexpensive, but then you need to get your own topper. I guess I looks at the Pico squonker as more of a test device of "will I even like the whole squonk lifestyle?". I'm sure if I do I'd get a different topper and probably a different squonker as well, but the low entry price of the Pico Squeeze means no kicking myself on something that ends up in the back of the drawer if it bombs (along with other stuff like that).
    The Coppervape is actually very nice if you don't mind a mech. And repair kits are available so you can replace pretty much anything if needed. And if you know what type of RDA you want for it, there are some good (from what I've heard, haven't tried any myself yet) clones made by Coppervape too, search GB and FT for Coppervape and they will pop up. Or of course any number of other bf RDA's are available.

    The Wanko I bought comes with a BF pin... Liking it, and it's dirt cheap...

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
    And, yes the Wanko surprised me, it is good, I have 4 now. Only using one at this time, the rest are for spares and spare parts if needed. But it is quite good. And available for $10 at Vaporbeast last time I checked.
     

    pufZeppelin

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    Can our usual 18650s charge at 3A without getting too hot and decreasing lifespan? I mean it's great once in a while when you're in a rush,
    but 3A for every charge seems high, but I'm no charger expert.

    I'd say no to that, Eskie. While you can probably get away with it, it will likely drastically shorten the service life.
    It's one thing to pull high amps from a high amp cell for a few seconds at a time, another thing to subject them to the higher heat from continuous charging. Imo. :)

    well then, very cool :headbang: I believe we are ALL OF THE SAME THINKING about throwing 3A at the 18650 :danger:
    even 3A at a 26650 seems to much, to me...

    but a true 2A charge to BOTH bays is REALLY sweet & I am getting used to it (fast)

    it's been ABOUT 2 months now and I see no degradation with a 2A charge, then user life in mod (yet)
    so next step is if my 18650 cells start dropping off overall...
    then weigh that between speed charging (2A) and battery price = worth of replacement price/convenience :blush:

    :evil:

    upload_2017-3-27_14-31-0.png
     

    Eskie

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    well then, very cool :headbang: I believe we are ALL OF THE SAME THINKING about throwing 3A at the 18650 :danger:
    even 3A at a 26650 seems to much, to me...

    but a true 2A charge to BOTH bays is REALLY sweet & I am getting used to it (fast)

    it's been ABOUT 2 months now and I see no degradation with a 2A charge, then user life in mod (yet)
    so next step is if my 18650 cells start dropping off overall...
    then weigh that between speed charging (2A) and battery price = worth of replacement price/convenience :blush:

    :evil:


    can you select the charge level on that, and choose to recharge at 2A for a single battery, or is it a fixed setting?
     

    ceeceeisme

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    If you don't mind the wait, take a look on Fasttech at the Frankenskull clones. Although they're mechanical, and the bottle is stiff (so is the Kanger stuff, though), I really like it... If you want regulated the Dripbox 2 is the best starter IMO.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

    I almost bought one of those too... the clone version that is. Chickened out. :eek: :lol:
     

    pufZeppelin

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    can you select the charge level on that, and choose to recharge at 2A for a single battery, or is it a fixed setting?

    YES, yes you can...

    it is TOTALLY selectable
    by pushing the [C] or [V] buttons you can choose the combination
    upload_2017-3-27_14-58-50.png

    so eg: it is AUTOMATIC, when you put a 18650 in, it evaluates it and sets it at 2A (output) / then 4.2v (termination) - you can make any combination you want

    only goofy thing is those numbers you see above ↑ are a STICKER - once removed all you have is a blank plastic screen with pretty blue dots o_O
     

    Eskie

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    only goofy thing is those numbers you see above ↑ are a STICKER - once removed all you have is a blank plastic screen with pretty blue dots o_O

    That's less than thrilling. I have a 4 bay D4, works fine for me, but it's slow with 3 or 4 batteries in it.
     

    pufZeppelin

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    I was alerted about the "sticker" while I was watching reviews before I bought it
    so I knew and TAPED mine on... ;)

    the thing is, you think it is just a screen protector film then you rip it off and then it's to late, NO NUMBERS -- duh...

    but it's not THAT big-a-deal ; not like it is a complicated unmemorable code of sorts (but still)

    :evil:
     

    coolerat

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    Ok so who knows Provari's??

    I built a Merlin just for the P3 the other day. 28ga paraell. Built and tested on a SX Mini at .9Ω and 20 watts. Its actually a better vape then you would think. Less flavor of coarse and I had to way up the nic but its pleasent.

    Put it on the Provari and its ohms to low. Ok, it fires down to .5 but whatever. Lower it to 19w and all is well.

    Yesterday its still reading right at .9 but says ohms to low again. Ok down to 18w. Still not to bad but for sure weaker.

    This morning 17w.

    Tonight its 16w and unvapable.

    The ohms are a rock solid .9. Everything is still the same on the SX.

    Why does the Provari keep changing its mind when even it agrees the ohms haven't changed??
     

    Eskie

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    Ok so who knows Provari's??

    I built a Merlin just for the P3 the other day. 28ga paraell. Built and tested on a SX Mini at .9Ω and 20 watts. Its actually a better vape then you would think. Less flavor of coarse and I had to way up the nic but its pleasent.

    Put it on the Provari and its ohms to low. Ok, it fires down to .5 but whatever. Lower it to 19w and all is well.

    Yesterday its still reading right at .9 but says ohms to low again. Ok down to 18w. Still not to bad but for sure weaker.

    This morning 17w.

    Tonight its 16w and unvapable.

    The ohms are a rock solid .9. Everything is still the same on the SX.

    Why does the Provari keep changing its mind when even it agrees the ohms haven't changed??

    And there's no longer a ProVape to go ask. I don't have one, but someone around here must.
     

    TrollDragon

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    well then, very cool :headbang: I believe we are ALL OF THE SAME THINKING about throwing 3A at the 18650 :danger:
    even 3A at a 26650 seems to much, to me...

    but a true 2A charge to BOTH bays is REALLY sweet & I am getting used to it (fast)

    it's been ABOUT 2 months now and I see no degradation with a 2A charge, then user life in mod (yet)
    so next step is if my 18650 cells start dropping off overall...
    then weigh that between speed charging (2A) and battery price = worth of replacement price/convenience :blush:

    :evil:

    3A is still well below 1C with the recommended 26650's we use, I'll stick with 2A on them for now. Also using 1A for my 18650's is quick enough for me too. :D
     

    pufZeppelin

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    3A is still well below 1C with the recommended 26650's we use, I'll stick with 2A on them for now. Also using 1A for my 18650's is quick enough for me too. :D

    yes, the 3A output is just too much for either 26/18 650's - IMO

    but charging everything @ true 2A sure is nice

    I can pull a 50% battery out and place in charger, then sit down and dryburn/rewick, refill, clean-up & the charge is done (I'm getting spoiled) (speed kills ?) :w00t:
     

    USMCotaku

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    Ok so who knows Provari's??

    I built a Merlin just for the P3 the other day. 28ga paraell. Built and tested on a SX Mini at .9Ω and 20 watts. Its actually a better vape then you would think. Less flavor of coarse and I had to way up the nic but its pleasent.

    Put it on the Provari and its ohms to low. Ok, it fires down to .5 but whatever. Lower it to 19w and all is well.

    Yesterday its still reading right at .9 but says ohms to low again. Ok down to 18w. Still not to bad but for sure weaker.

    This morning 17w.

    Tonight its 16w and unvapable.

    The ohms are a rock solid .9. Everything is still the same on the SX.

    Why does the Provari keep changing its mind when even it agrees the ohms haven't changed??
    I am guessing that it was ohms too low to fire at the selected wattage/amp draw.
     

    coolerat

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    I am guessing that it was ohms too low to fire at the selected wattage/amp draw.


    Right but it keeps changing. Nothing about the tank has changed the mod just keeps changing its mind.

    I kinda like the mod but its buggy as heck. Was using a Cuboid Mini with this tootle tank and never had any trouble. May end up just going back to that unless I can figger this out.
     

    Myrany

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    ok when my P3 has one of its fits I have to take the battery out and put it back in to get it to reset properly after throwing an error.

    My P3 is wonky like that. My older Provari's never an idiosyncrasy but they will not fire low ohm.
     
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