This is for the birds!

[Podunk Steam]

I put this here because eventually I do plan to have some batteries involved, gotta walk before you can run.


This is for the birds because you need eyes like an Eagle to get it to look any good. These are some buttons I turned on the lathe and powder coated, I guess I'm human because they sure aren't perfect.

Any suggestions for next time around? Edit: I guess I should put some form of scale to this, the large button actuator is 11.91mm in diameter at it's largest point.

Added a dime for measure.

 

[asdaq]

I always appreciate some turned buttons, and you had me sold on brass, but what are these destined for, a dna perhaps? I see one is hot and one is cold....

 

[Podunk Steam]

Thanks for the reply! My plans are to take one of these.
JY-24 Portable Hip-flask "7200mAh" External Battery Charger Power Bank w/ LED Flashlight - Silver - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

And put one of these SX350Js in it.

I have a lot of parts left to make or modify but the plan has finally come together, at least in my head anyway.

 

[Spiceman1967]

I like that battery charger you are going to use for the enclosure. I am anxious to see how it turns out. I have a couple of DNA40s that I am trying to find homes for and this enclosure has me intrigued.

 

[rhelton]

Thanks for the reply! My plans are to take one of these.
JY-24 Portable Hip-flask "7200mAh" External Battery Charger Power Bank w/ LED Flashlight - Silver - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

And put one of these SX350Js in it.

I have a lot of parts left to make or modify but the plan has finally come together, at least in my head anyway.

When I seen the buttons I thought they are really nice but ...? Now I see the J board and it makes sense now. Thats going to be awesome please post back with update pics.

 

[Podunk Steam]

I like that battery charger you are going to use for the enclosure. I am anxious to see how it turns out. I have a couple of DNA40s that I am trying to find homes for and this enclosure has me intrigued.

The USB connector on the board? If so it's just part of the SX350J, only 450 mah charging but works for upgrades if they come along in the future. I charge my batteries on dedicated chargers, just takes to long in mods for me.
These enclosures can be tight to built in, Mamu was the first I know of to put a DNA in one although she uses the opposite side of the enclosure, the concave side of the enclosure makes things even tighter.

When I seen the buttons I thought they are really nice but ...? Now I see the J board and it makes sense now. Thats going to be awesome please post back with update pics.

Okay I can do that.
I'm fond of brass and black together and hopefully the black contrasting the blue on the buttons will allow the blue to show up better. The top cap is about done although the structure for the interior still has to be soldered to it and 510 connector too.

Edit: I'd guess if you like the enclosure I posted a link to you might like this one better, way cheaper and less parts wasted.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...rnal-enclosure-case-for-mobile-power-bank-diy

 

[Podunk Steam]

Oops! Double post, the internet was messing with me.

 

[Podunk Steam]

Back with more pics!
I did mention these were a pretty tight fit, right? Hehehe

I got some brass strip cut to the right width for the larger slot.

Started putting the bends on it needed.

Then snipped the other channels brass down to the right width, dug out a hole with the Dremel for the 510, seated the 510 as tight as I could get it and soldered everything in place with some silver bearing solder.

It looks like if I'm real careful I may get away without powder coating the house although I might anyway, I read somewhere if the anodizing is real clean it's about the best base for powder coating. The black does bring out the blue better on the buttons.

 

[asdaq]

Yeah, black and brass is classy indeed, somehow 60's retro. I thought the blue in the fire button was a black oring in the earlier pics. Nice developments, keep em coming.

 

[Podunk Steam]

The colors on the buttons is powder coating. I have noticed some miscalculations I made and increased the height of the display on the board and shortened the board that holds the crooked micro USB. I'll have to make some adapters for the little buttons, I measured off the display not even taking account of the USBs height, ut I'm dealing with it.

I did get the display window squared up too.

 

[Podunk Steam]

This is the fourth D-ring screw I tried to modify, I give, the threads are going to have to be good enough.

 

[Podunk Steam]

Thanks for the likes guys!
I been at it again and ended up having to make this end cap receiver twice, I guess I'm getting plenty of practice.

I've been worried about the connections from the negative poles of the batteries so I set up a spring loaded connection point.

After the next few parts this should get easier, famous last words right! LOL!

 

[Podunk Steam]

This part never seems to get any easier.

Had to calm the nerves a little.

Still need some measurements from the inside after another part is built for the house before this can be completed.

Test fit was about fitting.

Not too bad so far.

 

[Podunk Steam]

I guess you'd call it parts tuning I was tinkering with today for the most part.
Took the top off the fire switch board.

The USB would have been sticking out a little way, so off with its head.

I finalized the spring loaded - connection by soldering it to the interior structure and giving it a liquid tape coating.

I modified a FDVs stainless 510 to be spring loaded and took some material off its top to gain some interior space. It stands above the top cap by maybe 3/4 of a millimeter.

More work to the 510 connector to gain a little more space, every little bit counts in this one!

I set up a retainer for the D-ring screw, I didn't like it being loose and potentially getting lost.

And built some isolation blocks from acetate with copper beryllium springs.

Edit: This doesn't look so bad.

 

[Davantrac]

It just gets better.

 

[Podunk Steam]

I hope it continues, this one is testing me.

 

[Podunk Steam]

I got some holes in the brass now.

Seems to line up pretty well with the holes in the exterior housing.

Another test fit showed me I'm going to have to get creative with the wire routing for the assembly.

I've decided I'm just going to mill new up and down buttons so I don't have to deal with the adapters I was going to make.

Edit: If you wouldn't mind I'd like to get some opinions on the button actuators. I'm kind of thinking the powder coating on the buttons is too much, maybe simple polished brass buttons would be the way to go?

 

[Davantrac]

Thumbs up for polished brass buttons.

 

[Fearlessleader]

Hi I am the guy that has the other thread on the YIHI sx350 M J It looks like you started out getting a vapor flask and gutting here I have a vapor flask. DNA 40 Now that I could do myself too I like the buttons you're using. So you at least started out with somthing dual batt capable. That has been my trouble is finding Housing that don't look like a box or the vapor flask this would be a good upgrade for me and I could recycle my DNA 40 and put it in my dna 30 Hana box and retro fit the s350 sx mini J model the only think would be I would have to find a way to relocate the the up down buttons the front and the screen I would like to leave the fire button in the stock location. I would also be using the YiHi 9V Balancing Charger Board this charging port and charge my batteries in 9 volt mode thus would also be another reason the unit parallel series switchable. This could be a good way for me to Kill 2 birds with one stone and move the DNA 40 board into my DNA 30 box and get a YiHi Sx 350 Mini J Model into my flask. Now on the other side the real problem for me is the enclosure for my wifes Sx 350 Mini J chip you said you have plans to with a custom housing you are designing. I would like to put a oh,meter that would measure voltage drop in the system where my old vapor flask dna 40 had its screen for when I am using bypass mode and fill the hole where the old DNA 40 board had in screen and I could relocate my up down button t the front like you did and rob the guts out of this ohm meter Ultimate Ohm Meter - Made in USA - High Precision! this would give me a very accurate Ohm meter built right in my unit the only problem is this meter does not read volts but I could use a resistor to drop the volts from the internal bat from the vapor flask to power the meter , I think having a super accurate ohm meter bullt in the unit again would add a cool feature for this I would just shut off the vapor flask and it would become a building ohm meter plus there in my new 510 connector I don't know if that Ohm meter could also have a voltage drop device wired to that same display like most other oum meter have buy taking the voltage reading parts fro any old $10 volt ohm meter they sell then I would have full featured ohm volt meter build right in. With the series parallel switch to run in both 60 watt mode or 120 watt mode I think would just about make this the most full featured SX350 unit ever made but I am sure it will be a layout nightmare but think about that done it would be very cool. having the 2 led screens having a ohm volt meter dual bat mode switchable I am pretty sure we would come with the most advanced Vapor Flask every made and perfect for building coils on as well I just don't know if the Vapor flask would have the room to get everything in or again I would be better off finding the right box for the transplant Also I think I am going to go the anodizing route or a custom paint by my friend that did all my my custom paint work in my custom bikes something in a flip flop paint job with shadow flames street rod look on the vapor flask .

Now as for my wifes SX350 J it only needs the parallel series switch and a good dual bat housing going in the same direction you're already heading with the 3d printed custom box would do the job nicely so when you have photoshop prototypes I would like see what your coming up with I have no problem with buy the housing from you if you go the shapeways route and I would have to collect all the parts a little at a time. It would not be a problem. My wife And I talked about it last nite and to get her started I am going to grab a DNa 25 and put it in her DNA 30 to get her started with TS and I can have that ready easy as long as I get the dna chip from here Evolv DNA 25D (retail box) | Protovapor.com toss in a FDV lowprofile copper 510 the same I put in mine and upgrade here fire button Mitec Push Button - 12mm or 16mm - Clicky I would use the 12mm version and call it done for now so I can get it ready for may 3rd on here birtday. She already has a sub tank and some aspire attys that I will get here some of the New http://sweet-vapes.com/clearomizers-cartomizers-tanks/kanger-104/kanger-coils/kanger-subtank-nickel-occ-coils.html for her to play with while I am building her ulitmate toy and some OOC Nickel; prebuilts to let her get used to TC she hase a few aspire tanks too that will take the new Nickel OC prebuilts

 

[Fearlessleader]

Looks like your doing one hell of a nice job the brass work is great while I like something like that myself my wife will need some like the 3d printed stuff with a contemporary cool in a hot pink when I get down to making her ultimate build SX Mini 350 J model I thinking something from shapeways