To thread or not to thread?
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after seeing quite a few build videos I have thought to myself that question too. In a physical standpoint I think it is both is viable however taste will definitely vary as the surface area difference. Another issue is the depending on the size of the air holes, juice can leak through the typical bottom airflow models so threading is slightly more preferred. (unless of course precise packing of cotton to avoid air holes coordinating coil size etc.)
Exactly, i also saw some builds where they would just lump the cotton into the coil chamber, hence my confusion. Thanks for the clarification!
Also, i tried threading it, but i would have this slight burnt taste, and my juice isnt as tasty as it was before. Is this normal when using cotton?
slight burn taste usually mean you have too little cotton in between the thread in my case where the cotton isnt providing enough juice to the coil. But it could also mean there's too much cotton blocking the juice flow. All in all its quite an art to perfect the size but once you get the hang of it, it should be fairly consistent. Also please replace wicking/coil if burnt else the taste will follow for quite some time if you just replace one of the two.
Okay thanks for the advice! Guess its gonna take time to get to know how much cotton to thread. Will have to learn more about it.
After you thread in the cotton, prime a bit of juice(I use VG) then fire the coil check for hot spot.
If you see any red area on the coil, those are hot spot meaning your cotton is too thin.
If you thread too much cotton, you may get the burnt taste as well. This is due to that the cotton is all squeeze up and failed to wick.
It'll take a few try for starter. Ideally the cotton wick stay fluffy in the coil while touching all the coil internal surface.
If you see any red area on the coil, those are hot spot meaning your cotton is too thin.
If you thread too much cotton, you may get the burnt taste as well. This is due to that the cotton is all squeeze up and failed to wick.
It'll take a few try for starter. Ideally the cotton wick stay fluffy in the coil while touching all the coil internal surface.
Well, bad news, my coil broke... Gotta wait for a new one i guess. Unless i can repair the microcoil, which is near impossible...
Yeah if i were using RBA it wouldnt be a problem. Guess i gotta get better gear to prevent this situations from happening in the future.
i think most non-rbas can be rebuilt as well.
haven't touched them in a really long time so not sure if its still possible on the current stuff though.
Plain old cotton is good, but Japanese cotton (Kho Gen Do) is better. I have some Egyptian cotton that's pretty good.
The trick with cotton wicking (or any wicking) is to size it to the coil so that it's not too tight or too loose. I usually cut a strip and roll it lightly with my fingers to shape it into a round strip that will slide into the coil. I usually roll it tightly between my fingers on one end to create a narrow point to get it into the coil, pull it to the center, and slide it back and forth to find the spot that slips back and forth without shredding the cotton. That's the sweet spot. If it's shredding off cotton when you slide it, it may be too tight, but you can pull off the extra that sticks up until it fits just right. Cut it to a length on both sides that allows the ends to sit where they can absorb juice and you are done. On an RBA you want the ends to sit lightly on the coil deck. If your are rebuilding a commercial head, you just have to replicate the way it was done when you popped it apart.
The trick with cotton wicking (or any wicking) is to size it to the coil so that it's not too tight or too loose. I usually cut a strip and roll it lightly with my fingers to shape it into a round strip that will slide into the coil. I usually roll it tightly between my fingers on one end to create a narrow point to get it into the coil, pull it to the center, and slide it back and forth to find the spot that slips back and forth without shredding the cotton. That's the sweet spot. If it's shredding off cotton when you slide it, it may be too tight, but you can pull off the extra that sticks up until it fits just right. Cut it to a length on both sides that allows the ends to sit where they can absorb juice and you are done. On an RBA you want the ends to sit lightly on the coil deck. If your are rebuilding a commercial head, you just have to replicate the way it was done when you popped it apart.
Which tank are you using? Nickel wire is also more towards temperature control units whereas kanthal is easily available next day shipping locally or even at simlim iirc.
Thanks for the comprehensive tutorial! I did try that pulling back and forth method, but thats what broke my coil. Maybe i used a little too much force.
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