Tootle Puffers, Part Three! (The Sequel of the Redux)

k2zs

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That is what I use and it is much better than any premixed menthol I have ever tried.
How do you use it? I've been reading up on it but all I can find is the general "mix a 10% solution, 1gr to 10ml PG then use that solution in your recipe's percentages". I would rather not mix up 10ml and have the unused portion sit waiting to be used in the next batch. Seems counter intuitive to let it sit around. Is there a way of mixing it directly in your recipe? I.E. A recipe for 100ml batch with a 3% menthol would get x number of grams?
 

misswish1

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Do make sure the air adjust screws are backed out, at least flush with the bottom of the base. If you still can't see through the two holes, you may want to adjust.

You need to make the adjustment with the KF opened up, and while it can be done with a coil in, it may get damaged.

Important to use the right size screwdriver! You're going to turn the 510 screw at the bottom of the base. It's probably very tight, and the wrong size driver may damage it. With the base in your left hand, turn that screw counter-clockwise just a little, while looking through the air intake. If you go 1/4 turn that way and still don't see the light :)p), then it needs to go the other way. Loosening the screw will also loosen the positive block inside - why you have to have it open.

And you don't want the 510 pin sticking way out...

If you need to, make a tiny insulating washer from, say, a carto condom.

I use a pair of pliers to hold the two block in place (well, the negative block isn't going to move!) when retightening. Makes it easier to align the positive block.

And check resistance with no coil after done, to make sure the pos block hasn't rotated into contact with the neg. (Although if you did manage all that with a coil on, you should see the same resistance as before the process.)

Hard to explain, actually pretty easy to do :thumb:

Thanks, David! I give it a good try after dinner. Not coiled yet, knew I'd mess them up. I'll report back, too! :lol:
 

misswish1

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Do make sure the air adjust screws are backed out, at least flush with the bottom of the base. If you still can't see through the two holes, you may want to adjust.

You need to make the adjustment with the KF opened up, and while it can be done with a coil in, it may get damaged.

Important to use the right size screwdriver! You're going to turn the 510 screw at the bottom of the base. It's probably very tight, and the wrong size driver may damage it. With the base in your left hand, turn that screw counter-clockwise just a little, while looking through the air intake. If you go 1/4 turn that way and still don't see the light :)p), then it needs to go the other way. Loosening the screw will also loosen the positive block inside - why you have to have it open.

And you don't want the 510 pin sticking way out...

If you need to, make a tiny insulating washer from, say, a carto condom.

I use a pair of pliers to hold the two block in place (well, the negative block isn't going to move!) when retightening. Makes it easier to align the positive block.

And check resistance with no coil after done, to make sure the pos block hasn't rotated into contact with the neg. (Although if you did manage all that with a coil on, you should see the same resistance as before the process.)

Hard to explain, actually pretty easy to do :thumb:

Ok, David, I turned the screw a bit and can see the light, put my hat pin in it to keep it in place. Tightened the screw as far as the pin allows. The block is a little wobbly now. If I take the pin out and tighten the screw, I loose the light. So how do I tighten the block?
 

Kenna

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David, it is yours and Kenna's fault that I have 2 more Kayfuns headed my way. And more clear tanks. All you guys fault! Now I need to find o-rings, sheesh. Thank you!
I want to buy a 100 pack of every Kayfun oring.

Sent from my LG-V700 using Tapatalk
 

LJFinFLA

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What problems did you have with them?

In one the post keep spinning and the other the air control wasn't lined up right. I bought them from Angelcigs. Don't know who the manufacturer is. I only paid $10 ea for them. I got what I paid for! :rolleyes: When I was able to get them to work they did vape nice. Just weren't worth the hassle.
 

LJFinFLA

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Ok, David, I turned the screw a bit and can see the light, put my hat pin in it to keep it in place. Tightened the screw as far as the pin allows. The block is a little wobbly now. If I take the pin out and tighten the screw, I loose the light. So how do I tighten the block?

Straighten the block and hold it in place, then tighten the 510 screw(pin). That should do it.
 

DancingHeretik

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Do make sure the air adjust screws are backed out, at least flush with the bottom of the base. If you still can't see through the two holes, you may want to adjust.

You need to make the adjustment with the KF opened up, and while it can be done with a coil in, it may get damaged.

Important to use the right size screwdriver! You're going to turn the 510 screw at the bottom of the base. It's probably very tight, and the wrong size driver may damage it. With the base in your left hand, turn that screw counter-clockwise just a little, while looking through the air intake. If you go 1/4 turn that way and still don't see the light :)p), then it needs to go the other way. Loosening the screw will also loosen the positive block inside - why you have to have it open.

And you don't want the 510 pin sticking way out...

If you need to, make a tiny insulating washer from, say, a carto condom.

I use a pair of pliers to hold the two block in place (well, the negative block isn't going to move!) when retightening. Makes it easier to align the positive block.

And check resistance with no coil after done, to make sure the pos block hasn't rotated into contact with the neg. (Although if you did manage all that with a coil on, you should see the same resistance as before the process.)

Hard to explain, actually pretty easy to do :thumb:
Use the pliers, Luke. :lol:

Gas pliers, or the ubiquitous "channel lock" type slip joint. Grip both blocks with the pliers, they WILL be aligned! Tighten / adjust the 510 screw, remove pliers. Done. :)
Ok, David, I turned the screw a bit and can see the light, put my hat pin in it to keep it in place. Tightened the screw as far as the pin allows. The block is a little wobbly now. If I take the pin out and tighten the screw, I loose the light. So how do I tighten the block?
Yes, what do we do now?
 

sawlight

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In one the post keep spinning and the other the air control wasn't lined up right. I bought them from Angelcigs. Don't know who the manufacturer is. I only paid $10 ea for them. I got what I paid for! :rolleyes: When I was able to get them to work they did vape nice. Just weren't worth the hassle.

OK, thanks! This one has been taken apart and had the air holes lined up already, and the old owner adjusted/tightened up the posts already.

But, if we tighten, the airflow gets cut back off!

Something is moving when you are tightening it, is the insulator lined up with the block? Is the block moving slightly when you tighten it? Maybe a small vise would be better, clamp on the blocks, use a punch of some sort to line up the insulator, then tighten it down?
 

DancingHeretik

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When you tighten the screw, you are also turning the air holes. That's how it's made. If it weren't so tight, I could turn the airholes far enough to line back up again on the half turn. But, I'm not strong enough or it just won't go that far. I don't know which.
 

MikeyConti

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Use the pliers, Luke. :lol:

Gas pliers, or the ubiquitous "channel lock" type slip joint. Grip both blocks with the pliers, they WILL be aligned! Tighten / adjust the 510 screw, remove pliers. Done. :)
I use Pliers! lol ;):thumb:
 

sawlight

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Hey, I have a FastTech shipping question. Iv never ordered from China, Someone told me to use epacket(I live in the US), so upon checkout there is USPS First-Class and USPS First-Class ePacket.

Which should I use?

How fast do you want it? How much do you want to pay? There's your answers lol!
 

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