RDA Troubleshooting an rda problem, unstable electrical behavior

[sofarsogood]

I use only one atomizer, an SV rda clone with single coils stainless builds at about 1.3 ohm in Tc mode. I have several but have been using only one. It is behaving erratically even with several different builds. It behaves as though hot spots develop at random times but when I do the dry cotton test there is no burning at my usual 400 degree setting. The trouble starts with a wet wick. I finally switched to another SV and the problems are resolved and the vaping experience vastly improved.

Has anyone experienced something similar? If the rda is the problem could there be erosion of the insulator between the center pin and the deck that causes some kind of current leakage? Can some one advise me of a non destructive way to remove the center pin from the deck or explain how they are usually assembled? The center pin bottom has a hex end so may be it screws in. The link should lead to a photo of the deck.

$7.16 SV Style RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[gpjoe]

There simply is not enough info in your post to figure out what's going on.

Do you have an ohm meter? I have found the best way to check for resistance that seems to change is to mount the atty with coil on my ohm meter and sort of push on the posts. If there is an intermittent short the resistance reading should jump from the 1.3 ohm reading at rest to something less or even zero.

If you mount the atty on a meter with no coil and do the same, it should always read open or infinite. If you get any reading without a coil, the atty is likely shorted, or at least intermittently shorting out.

 

[sofarsogood]

There simply is not enough info in your post to figure out what's going on.

Do you have an ohm meter? I have found the best way to check for resistance that seems to change is to mount the atty with coil on my ohm meter and sort of push on the posts. If there is an intermittent short the resistance reading should jump from the 1.3 ohm reading at rest to something less or even zero.

If you mount the atty on a meter with no coil and do the same, it should always read open or infinite. If you get any reading without a coil, the atty is likely shorted, or at least intermittently shorting out.

Thanks for the tips. I will try those tomorrow and see what I find. I do have a stand alone ohm rader i use as a bench mark. Sometimes with this particular rda it will read whole numbers in the hundreds instead of the usual 1 point something. but then that problem clears up. i don't know how to interpret that large number reading. i would have thought that if the atomizer is shorting I'd get that warning from the mod and haven't noticed that. Anyway I'll try your tests, thanks.

 

[Kprthevapr]

Always check the post screws too. After the first couple of heatings the screws may loosen a bit, just tighten em back and you should be good to go.

 

[Kprthevapr]

I use only one atomizer, an SV rda clone with single coils stainless builds at about 1.3 ohm in Tc mode. I have several but have been using only one. It is behaving erratically even with several different builds. It behaves as though hot spots develop at random times but when I do the dry cotton test there is no burning at my usual 400 degree setting. The trouble starts with a wet wick. I finally switched to another SV and the problems are resolved and the vaping experience vastly improved.

Has anyone experienced something similar? If the rda is the problem could there be erosion of the insulator between the center pin and the deck that causes some kind of current leakage? Can some one advise me of a non destructive way to remove the center pin from the deck or explain how they are usually assembled? The center pin bottom has a hex end so may be it screws in. The link should lead to a photo of the deck.

$7.16 SV Style RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Do you have an old RDA that you don't use with the same style/size bottom pin? You may be able to salvage parts from an old one to get the new one working.
I have one that I need to order a clone of for the same reason, to make my favorite RDA not leak all over the place.

Check fasttech too, they may have replacement insulators

 

[sofarsogood]

Do you have an old RDA that you don't use with the same style/size bottom pin? You may be able to salvage parts from an old one to get the new one working.
I have one that I need to order a clone of for the same reason, to make my favorite RDA not leak all over the place.

Check fasttech too, they may have replacement insulators

I have several of them because they are what I'm stockpiling in case of government interfere. I'm interested this issue because if I really do need the stockpile I'd like to be able to troubleshoot and repair these kinds of problems. I'm not yet home from Saturday work so not able to do some troubleshooting yet.

As far as insulators, I bet I could make them if push comes to shove. I would like to understand how the center pin comes out so I don't destroy the RDA by trying to remove it.

 

[sofarsogood]

So this afternoon i worked on the misbehaving rda and couldn't get it to cuase any trouble. i did a dry cotton test. it slightly singed cotton at 400 degrees and 30 max watts but not when watts were reduced to 20. So iif there is a problem it will have to come up again and may be I'll be better prepared.

On a different topic, i vape the sv style of rda because it's the best I can find for mtl that's practical to use and carry out and about. It would be nice if there was any retailer with some focus on mtl and proucts for us. perhaps there are too few mtl vapers to bother with.

 

[mcclintock]

After over a year of heavy use and a couple years owning it, I finally had to take the center pin out on my RDA and clean it. I was getting small random resistance changes, don't know why, but it fixed it. This was the regular screw and hole style post so I put a 1/16" drill bit in the hole to align things on the way back together.

 

[EvlSmrk]

All of these atomizers are assembled because of the need to isolate positive from negative. Give it a shot and see what you come up with. If it's hard, don't do it. A little effort might be needed to break something free, but if you need to apply a lot of force, it's not the right way to do it. Strip it completely down, give it a good inspection and cleaning, reassemble, and even if you don't actually see anything wrong, your problem may sort it out just by giving it a good once over.