Unusual 18650 batteries, trying to get more info on them

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olokos

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Dec 13, 2015
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Hello,

I recently got these batteries. I've tried googling around it's code that's written on one of them, but I can't seem to find any information. I don't know if that's the right place to post but it seemed the best of them all.
Do you guys know any places where I could find some more information about them, or maybe some of you has some access to 18650 db's. I honestly don't know what they're made of and what are they capable of. I'm trying to get some information, hope some of you could help me.
http://pasteboard.co/wqc9VFY.jpg
 

Plumes.91

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wth do you expect us to help you with? lol. i meant to sound harsh in a humorous way, but not mean. idk what you expect us to help u with. We can barely see the markings, you've got a picture of orange shrink wrapped batteries in our face. that helps us 0%. anyone can re-shrinkwrap a 20 cent china trustfire, so be careful. Buy authentic Panasonic, Sony, AW, and other popular electronics brand batts.
 

Plumes.91

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you could very well be stressing the crap out of a battery that cannot handle 0.3 ohms.
if you dont know what they are, at-least use an above 1-ohm build until you do, or until you receive better batts.
this is what this entire forum is against. this post wont be received nicely. In-fact, I may even catch slack for recommending you USE them w/above-sub builds... People are going to be angry with that advice. I wouldn't use them at-ALL if I were in your underpants... Honestly, battery-safety is the single-most sacred subject here on the ECF forums... You MUST take battery-safety SERIOUSLY!

For if you are injured from a battery that experiences thermal runaway due-to stress and/or a short, you not-only run the risk of injuring yourself/your body- You not only run the risk of burning yourself, burning your posessions, and/or burning DOWN your home, you not only run the risk of DEATH (god forbid) and the death of your family members, should those batteries experience a serious failure/meltdown on the charger while you & your family is asleep @ night- But you also run the risk of injuring the entire E-Cigarette/Mod community as a whole. You run the risk of further destroying the public opinion of our hobby, further making us black-sheep, & furthering the FDA's agenda to BAN all advanced e-cigarettes/mods/APVs and the accessories for said mods/APVs. THIS is why battery-safety is of UTMOST IMPORTANCE in this day & age... Because failure CAN, DOES, and WILL occur, & we see these posts regularly. Thank god, it is usually an in-hand failure, and the mod is thrown & everything turns up ok. But if it should fail at night, on the charger- or in your pocket, due-to a hard-short, or a fire-button-malfunction/mishap, it could give you SERIOUS, painful, 3rd-degree burns, or WORSE, burn-down your home and/or cause a death from fire or smoke inhalation. you MUST keep battery-safety as a TOP priority, which is why we simply do-NOT support use of unmarked or unknown batteries, we do NOT support use of ANY battery that is not considered SAFE-CHEMISTRY, HIGH-DRAIN, IMR and/or HYBRID-safe-chemistry.

Thank you for your time, & I do hope that you'll reconsider the use of those batteries all-together, and buy from a REPUTABLE battery vendor, such-as RTD, or one of the approved vendors here on the ECF forums.

Thank you, and NJoy the vape journey my pal.
 
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zoiDman

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I have charged one of them for about 2 hours now and put it in my nemesis mechanical mod with zephyrus v2 running stock 0.3 coil. It works good, atleast good enough for the nearest few days until I get HG2's.

Hey Man. It's your Hand. And it is your Teeth.

But pushing the Button on a Mech Mod with a .3 Ohm Build is asking that Battery to provide 14 Amps.

And what you are Not Considering is the Battery that can Explosively Vent is going to Perform just like a High Drain IMR. That is, Until it Fails.

And when it Fails, if you Mech Mod doesn't have enough Venting, then you are Holding a Pipe Bomb next to your Mouth.
 

olokos

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Dec 13, 2015
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you could very well be stressing the crap out of a battery that cannot handle 0.3 ohms.
if you dont know what they are, at-least use an above 1-ohm build until you do, or until you receive better batts.
this is what this entire forum is against. this post wont be received nicely.
Okay, I will build a 1.2ohm coil for the time being. I think you could see the markings on the battery on that picture, but if you do not then it's L5A0311-5, the other is labelled L5A0311-4, so the last number could mean which battery is it from a battery back or something like this.
Hey Man. It's your Hand. And it is your Teeth.

But pushing the Button on a Mech Mod with a .3 Ohm Build is asking that Battery to provide 14 Amps.

And what you are Not Considering is the Battery that can Explosively Vent is going to Perform just like a High Drain IMR. That is, Until it Fails.

And when it Fails, if you Mech Mod doesn't have enough Venting, then you are Holding a Pipe Bomb next to your Mouth.
I don't really have that much knowledge about batteries so it would be nice if you could explain some stuff to me.
What happens when the battery is highly drained if it's not designed for that? I think it just simply wouldn't output enough power thus it would obviously perform worse and provide less vapour, am I wrong here?
I don't really get what does "explosively vent" mean to be honest.

My nemesis doesn't have almost any venting at all to be honest the only place it is exposed to the outside is the little space between the body and the button, but in fact, even when used with 0.3 build it doesn't really heat up.

Thanks everyone for your replies.
 

Quantum Mech

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zoiDman

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...

I don't really have that much knowledge about batteries so it would be nice if you could explain some stuff to me.
What happens when the battery is highly drained if it's not designed for that? I think it just simply wouldn't output enough power thus it would obviously perform worse and provide less vapour, am I wrong here?
I don't really get what does "explosively vent" mean to be honest.

My nemesis doesn't have almost any venting at all to be honest the only place it is exposed to the outside is the little space between the body and the button, but in fact, even when used with 0.3 build it doesn't really heat up.

Thanks everyone for your replies.

Here is Basically what happens.

When you push the button on a Mech Mod, you complete a DC Circuit. The Battery in your Mod Doesn't know or Doesn't Care what the Resistance of the Coil Wire is. All the Battery knows is the Circuit is Complete. And that it has to Obey Ohms Law.

Ohms Law say that the amount of Amps will be Equal to the Voltage divided by the Resistance. The More Resistance you have, Higher Ohms, the Less Amps. Lower Resistance, Low Ohm, the More Amps.

So a Freshly charged Battery at 4.2 Volts needs to Provide 14 Amps if the Coil Resistance is .3 Ohms.

Amps = Volts / Ohms => Amps = 4.2 / .3 => Amps = 14

It doesn't matter if the Battery can not Safely do this. It what the Battery Has to Do.

So if you Ask a Battery to provide More Amps than it is Capable of, it is going to get Hot. Just like a Thin Extension Cord gets Hot when you Draw too many Amps thru it.

But a Battery Isn't an Extension Cord. It is a Cylinder full of Chemical Compounds. And these Chemical Compounds can Rapidly React, Breakdown and even Burn. And when they do, they Release Gases. This is Called Venting.

It's these Vented Gases that can Build Up in your Mod causing it to Explode.

IMR Batteries use what is called "Safe Chemistry". In that they do Not (should Not) catch fire or Release Large amounts of Gases when they Vent. So they are MUCH Safer to use than Regular Rechargeable Batteries.

But they Cost More. So people don't use them unless they Need them. Vapers who use Mech Mods need to use IMR (or INR ) Batteries so if there is a Problem, and the Battery Fails, it shouldn't cause a Mech Mod to Explode. The IMR Battery will just Basically stop Working.

If you're going to use a Mech Mod, you have to be Able to Calculate How Many Amps you are going to ask your Battery to Safely Provide. Then you have to look at what the "Constant" Amp Rating is for a Battery.

So if you Battery is rated at 15 Amps Constant Discharge, you Should build anything that requires the Battery to provide more than about 13 Amps. You should Always leave a little "Headroom" or Safety Margin.

Just put those Batteries aside. Because there is No Way to know what they are Capable of.

BTW - There are Many people who will take an el-Cheap-O Battery, wrap it with a Name Brand Wrapper, and then sell it as a High End IMR Battery.

That is why it is So Important to Buy Batteries from someone like JC Okie suggest. That has a Long Track Record of selling Authentic Batteries.
 

olokos

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Thanks a milion @zoiDman. This really helps. Even though I've been using this battery (not even fully charged, I think) for the last couple hours and it works well, it doesn't get even warm at all. That is a good sign isnt it?

I can't tell you the exact battery voltage, as my multimeter broke down and doesnt report proper voltage (I tried checking my phone charger and it shows up 2.5v, which isn't possible), but Wismec RX200 (I didn't use those battery yet in it, just used it's ability to check each battery voltage) reports that it's currently charged to 4.18v which could be correct.
 

zoiDman

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Thanks a milion @zoiDman. This really helps. Even though I've been using this battery (not even fully charged, I think) for the last couple hours and it works well, it doesn't get even warm at all. That is a good sign isnt it?

A Battery getting Warm is Always a Bad Sign.

But that doesn't mean that You should be using that Battery. Because if you Short that Battery, it could very well Explosively Vent. Or it could just Fail with Little or No Warning.

I'd just Wait until you get some Decent Batteries to put in a Mech Mod. If it was a Regulated Mod, that had some Built In Protection Circuits, I still wouldn't Recommend using them. But at least you would have some Protection.

Using those Batteries in a Mech Mod is kinda like doing a High Wire Act without a Net.

Patrick-V-Vapor-Digest-Debris-1024x482-300x141.jpg
 

olokos

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Dec 13, 2015
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Okay, what shall I do then? For at least one day I'll have to use those batteries as I don't have any other. I also have this battery Ordered Wismec Reuleaux RX200, will my batteries be enough?
But those started leaking. I do have one of them that seems fine.
Would it be better to use panasonic battery in the mechanic mod or 3 of those orange batteries with wismec rx200 at 20w in vw mode?

I'm only using the mech mod because I'm worried about the RX200 + those batteries are charging right now.

Those orange batteries DO NOT heat up at all, not even by a bit, at least as I'm using it in the mech mod.

I'll build 1+ohm coil right now.
 

zoiDman

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Okay, what shall I do then? For at least one day I'll have to use those batteries as I don't have any other. I also have this battery Ordered Wismec Reuleaux RX200, will my batteries be enough?
But those started leaking. I do have one of them that seems fine.
Would it be better to use panasonic battery in the mechanic mod or 3 of those orange batteries with wismec rx200 at 20w in vw mode?

I'm only using the mech mod because I'm worried about the RX200 + those batteries are charging right now.

Those orange batteries DO NOT heat up at all, not even by a bit, at least as I'm using it in the mech mod.

I'll build 1+ohm coil right now.

If you just have to use those Batteries, then yes, building at 1+Ohms would be Much better than building at .3 Ohms.
 
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