Very easy vv mod w/ switching regulator

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mamu

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Sorry for the typo....I should probably just kill myself for making that mistake.

Here's what I'm talking about

Madvapes Switch

I have no idea if that switch would hold up to run the voltage reader or not Parallex. I used a .5A switch on my voltmeter to check loaded voltage and I've had no problems with it. It's only used intermittently though when I want to check loaded voltages on my mods.

If you use it, let us know how it goes. I'd also be interested in how you wire it.
 

mamu

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my is still working and i dont bother unpluggin it cos i found a digital camera case for it at the dollar store that fits perfectly. how long has it been since i made varBox? 2 months? sorry for the crappy pics but i just got home from work and im a bit sleepy...

Well wake up dude! LOL. The pics are too fuzzy for me. Maybe you can draw a pic of the wiring.

If the voltage reader on your varBox is running aok, maybe we're good to go with the way we're wiring it. I think it would be nice though to wire the voltage reader so it's not running every time the atty switch is pressed.

I've only done 1 mod with a voltage reader. If I do another maybe I'll give some thought as to how I would wire it differently.
 
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Switched

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Well wake up dude! LOL. The pics are too fuzzy for me. Maybe you can draw a pic of the wiring.

If the voltage reader on your varBox is running aok, maybe we're good to go with the way we're wiring it. I think it would be nice though to wire the voltage reader so it's not running every time the atty switch is pressed.

I've only done 1 mod with a voltage reader. If I do another maybe I'll give some thought as to how I would wire it differently.

Like anything else electronic, VRs have a finite life as well. How long is one's guess at best. Wiring it separate from the main circuit would be advisable IMO. A simple 3A on off switch would be the ticket IMO, especially when we are adjusting the voltage, as it only needs to really be on when we are fine tuning.
 

mamu

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Like anything else electronic, VRs have a finite life as well. How long is one's guess at best. Wiring it separate from the main circuit would be advisable IMO. A simple 3A on off switch would be the ticket IMO, especially when we are adjusting the voltage, as it only needs to really be on when we are fine tuning.

I agree. I was looking at the way Blue had us wire the voltmeter with a switch and I think that would be the easiest way to wire it in a mod.
 
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misterD

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you guys are talking about a sliding on/off switch, right? whats wrong with the idea o having a needle that you u can stick in and out of either + or - pin like its done on varbox?:facepalm: think of it like it was an ic pin...
i cant believe none of you guys grab it? this and the pot with a knob coming out the box to facilitate the voltage adjusting... MAMA MIA!!!:mad:
 

Switched

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you guys are talking about a sliding on/off switch, right? whats wrong with the idea o having a needle that you u can stick in and out of either + or - pin like its done on varbox?:facepalm: think of it like it was an ic pin...
i cant believe none of you guys grab it? this and the pot with a knob coming out the box to facilitate the voltage adjusting... MAMA MIA!!!:mad:

Because I have all this shyt already available. Duh!
 

Para

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I have no idea if that switch would hold up to run the voltage reader or not Parallex. I used a .5A switch on my voltmeter to check loaded voltage and I've had no problems with it. It's only used intermittently though when I want to check loaded voltages on my mods.

If you use it, let us know how it goes. I'd also be interested in how you wire it.

Will do. I think I'll use it and make sure I have room to put a higher rated switch if it fries.
 

WillyB

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Sorry for the typo....I should probably just kill myself for making that mistake.

Here's what I'm talking about

Madvapes Switch
That switch should work fine, you aren't using it like a fire switch. The meter isn't acting like a current sucking atty, you won't be running any significant current through the switch to the meter. Think of it like a control pin on a regulator.
 

Para

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That switch should work fine, you aren't using it like a fire switch. The meter isn't acting like a current sucking atty, you won't be running any significant current through the switch to the meter. Think of it like a control pin on a regulator.

Thanks...and that's what I had in mind. I'll hit the switch for a few seconds to get a reading
 

Para

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Finished the 1st one and wanted to see if I could make one using a 3x2x1 box. It was a TIGHT fit, but worked out really well. The box is deeper than it needs to be so it can be thinner by about 1/4 inch.

Many thanks to mamu for the find and the tutorial
drinks.gif



5vv.jpg


....and now back to making the volt meter and juice feeder version
 

illuxion

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if you open that little link below the coil then put a pull up resistor(I used 200k) to Vin and then the micro switch from ground to the enable pin you have almost no current(fighting the pull up and a few microamps for the enable pin). That's how I got my vape mouse to work using the built in buttons on a mouse which are low current. That little link ties the enable pin to ground so that it is always on. For the lm2596 it's an enable not pin so pulling high disables it. For the mp2307 it's the opposite with an enable pin and pulling low disables it.
 

Para

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what did you use for the batt holders?

CR123A holders fit like a glove. The holders were the key to being able to put it in such a small box. From the top of the card to the bottom of the holder there's less than a mm to spare (and that was after shaving/modding the holders and the box).
 

Para

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Well done Parallex!! 3x2x1 is a nice size. Where did you get the enclosure?

Radio Shack....it's their smallest project box size.

If anyone decides to go with that size box, it takes a lot of box modding to make everything fit. Dremel Tile Cutter Bit makes it possible. It cuts boxes like they are made of butter. Practice a bit on some old battery boxes to get the feel for using it.

b45c6c50-e5cf-471a-af8f-69b0612bbe02_300.jpg
 
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