Vivi Nova Rebuild tutorial

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urquidezj

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Rebuild to the new Vivi Nova,


needed,
vivi nova
32g kanthal a1
32 gauge nr wire
ody wick


kit
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huge center pin stickout
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pulled apart
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bottom of coil head
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you can see where the wires are grabbed on
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didnt get a pic of this but to take coil out, you pull the center pin out just grab it with finger nail or tweezers and then pull rubber gasket out also remove silicone top gasket, there is a metal shim in there, dont lose it
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this baffled me, no non resistant wire on the tails, this is a problem because the tails will glow since they are wrapped around nothing, burn and melt gasket and you will inhale melted rubber
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cut two pieces of ody wick to the length of the stock wick
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cut resistance and no resistance wire, i guess on this but if you have a multimeter you can check where you want you resistance
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twist nr wire onto r wire
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once twisted, twist the remainder of the nr wire onto the part you twisted first
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cut excess off and get your two wick together and wrap around it leaving the two "twist knots" of wire at the ends, you wont need a paper clip this wick holds straight pretty good.
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positiong wick in coil head and run wires out the bottom and wedge wick in there until it bottoms out on the wick channels
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bend neg wire down and keep other in center. it is crucial your positive isnt touching the walls of the chamber, it will short out
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slide positive throug gasket and push gasket into place making sure negative is getting smashed by it.
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push center pin in to hold positive wire
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trim excess wire
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screw it onto vivi base and check resistance and for shorts
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prime your wick and slide silicone sleeve with metal bushing in there (the one mentioned earlier)
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fill
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mount
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vape
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in terms of vapor production, this one destroys the phoenix, in terms of wicking this one is lacking, anything close to 5 volts at 2.5 ohm will give you dry hits, 4.5 volt you will get 5-6 good hits then dry burns, 4 volts dry burns occasionally. overall i like it but i need to solve my dry burn problem. hope it helps, any questions feel free to ask
 

Nicblazer

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Impressive, sir. Most impressive.


Your time taken to do all this must be praised indeed, urquide. You also ended up solving the huge problem of the unknown "plasticky and burned rubber taste" that people were having.


I must ask though, how does it taste ? I was always unlucky with CE2s and their cousins on the juice taste category. They always seemed muted to me compared to atomizers, and hell, even cartomizers.


Again, thank you very much for time invested on such a detailed post.


BTW urqui, what kind of camera did you use for the shots ? They look excellent.
 

mondotoker760

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I rebuilt a atty head with a stainless steal wick and works awesome. The flavor is improved and wicks well at high volts. The stock vivi nova is ok imo but its a modders dream.... easy to rebuild and with that 510 connection I'm sure there will be many more modding ideas.
 

meatsneakers

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I make my wicks for other atties just like that - a wrap of SS with cotton in the center. You have to oxidize very well, then if it shorts you have to move coil wraps very slightly to get rid of it. Burn off a few drops of juice and check for shorts again.If you use cotton in the center, make sure to hit the trigger for as short as possible to check for shorts. If you get it too hot, you may burn away the cotton inside the SS. Silica can withstand longer firings but it also gets very brittle when its completely dry. As for the ProVari error, wiggle the coil around on the wick and you should find a spot that has low ohms but still fires enough to find the major shorts.
 
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unloaded

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Where does that metal shim go? I'm assuming on top under the silicone sleeve? If so you could run the negative leg up there, place the shim on then the sleeve. Just looks like it would make the seal at the bottom better and less likely to leak. I'm gonna have to get me a few of these to play with. Where are you guys getting the NR wire? I've seen it at COV, anyplace else? What are the specs on it? I'd like to use the NR wire on some of my genisis attys to get rid of the glow between the posts and coil.
 

BJ43

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I use silver wire 18 gauge half hard. The type of post doesn't eliminate the red glow, only the length of the run from the coil to the post does. This run gets hardly any juice and will glow when dry. I try to use the shortest runs possible and your coils will last much longer as this is where they normally fail.
 

BJ43

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I use argentium just because of the copper content in sterling even though sterling is used for spoons , forks, and goblets. I cover my wire with ptfe tubing so it really shouldn't matter. I have not been able to find hard pure silver wire in small amounts at a reasonable price and the ones here are soft.
 
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