Voltage drop? What voltage drop?

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Cavere

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I just got my first Reo last night(hello everyone ^_^) and I have a .58 voltage drop from a fresh battery over a 1ohm coil. where oh were do I find brass shim stock? The only place I could think of was a hobby shop that sold airplanes/cars. I gave them a call and the person told me he has brass, but isn't sure it is exactly what I'm looking for. And they close at the same time I get out of work here :p

I went to an auto parts store and got brass feeler gauges. Just a couple bucks comes with several thicknesses. I just made a new firing pin today with 0.010 and that seems to have the right amount of springiness.

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BlaqueJezus

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I went to an auto parts store and got brass feeler gauges. Just a couple bucks comes with several thicknesses. I just made a new firing pin today with 0.010 and that seems to have the right amount of springiness.

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You my friend, just made my day :)
 

custom-classic

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I second the .010 brass feeler gauge for the firing pin. I would roll the end for better contact area like this:

bfp1.jpg

bfp2.jpg

bfp3.jpg

brass shim.jpg

Check out this thread too: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/467679-dz-mod-ok-pdib-too.html

Good luck!!!
 

BlaqueJezus

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Krazirob

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newp :/ But I can fix that in a second. the spring that came with it was giving me a 1.19 drop. I switched springs and it went to .9, then I scuffed up the firing button and got .58

hmmmm i was getting a .5 drop straight out the box without the brass shim.....with the brass shim I'm getting .4 drop......what did you replace the spring with.....maybe i can make my Voltage drop lesser with that fix
 

supertrunker

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and here we go - falling into the same old thing. The v-drop depends as well on your coils and batteries. Which means his cannot be compared to yours, but it can be compared to how his used to be. Nothing more.

Dibby proved the reduction possible and how, but the fact is it's not possible to make direct comparisons.

T
 

Krazirob

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and here we go - falling into the same old thing. The v-drop depends as well on your coils and batteries. Which means his cannot be compared to yours, but it can be compared to how his used to be. Nothing more.

Dibby proved the reduction possible and how, but the fact is it's not possible to make direct comparisons.

T

yes this is true....i was just trying to find out what he did with his spring so that i could get mine even lower......i was just merely describing my own V drop....
 

Krazirob

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BlaqueJezus

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yeah i knew about that fuse mod but i thought there was a replacement spring you could get that was better....or one that can be made.....spring for the bottom that is

Krazirob: Sorry bud, I ordered a repair kit with my reo and just used the spring that came in that kit from rob. For whatever reason the original one was adding to the 1.19v drop :/ I put in the brass firing pin since last night and now i'm getting a .65 drop even with everything noalox-ed (bottom spring too per your insight)

Any Ideas?
 

pdib

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I just got my first Reo last night(hello everyone ^_^) and I have a .58 voltage drop from a fresh battery over a 1ohm coil. where oh were do I find brass shim stock? The only place I could think of was a hobby shop that sold airplanes/cars. I gave them a call and the person told me he has brass, but isn't sure it is exactly what I'm looking for. And they close at the same time I get out of work here :p

So, there's alot of stuff one needs to look at when addressing v-drop. How old is your battery? What model of battery is it? Which atomizer are you using? What is the condition of the atty's bottom (510+ pin)? How firmly to do screw your atty in? Are you riding on a bed of gaskets? Is it making good contact? The majority of the V-drop on a stock REO (for the time being) is in the spring. Next, after that, comes the firing pin. But if you are running on a stock spring, I don't know how much the firing pin mod is going to help. At 1Ω, on a stock REO, you should probably be seeing ~.4V dropped. If any of the above listed things are contributing, it's not hard to imagine getting to .5-.6V.
 

BlaqueJezus

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So, there's alot of stuff one needs to look at when addressing v-drop. How old is your battery? What model of battery is it? Which atomizer are you using? What is the condition of the atty's bottom (510+ pin)? How firmly to do screw your atty in? Are you riding on a bed of gaskets? Is it making good contact? The majority of the V-drop on a stock REO (for the time being) is in the spring. Next, after that, comes the firing pin. But if you are running on a stock spring, I don't know how much the firing pin mod is going to help. At 1Ω, on a stock REO, you should probably be seeing ~.4V dropped. If any of the above listed things are contributing, it's not hard to imagine getting to .5-.6V.

Aw imr 18650. Maybe a month old. Single thin gasket and almost all the way tightened atty. .7 dual coil build on a bottom fed cyclone. Everything is new new since I just got my reo in the mail. 4.2v fresh battery. reads 3.5 when checking the drop.

I put in the brass firing pin. I was going to ask you about that nice fuse holder you got but did not have a chance yet.

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pdib

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well a .5+V drop on a .7Ω coil seems about like what you'd expect for a stock REO. About 65% of that is the spring. 30% is in the pin; but that's both materials and shape. Also, it's important that, when one replaces the pin, the connection at the 510+ post is solid with good contact (a nice firm joint of the screw-on nipple . . . . . without twisting so hard that you shear it . . . . . . . .. I've actually undone one where I discovered that I had screwed it on so tight that I sheared it half way through. That's not gonna be a very good electrical connection.) The last 5% I found was in polishing the chrome off the head of the 510+ pin and atty 510 ...., clean battery contacts, sell seated atty, and like that.

I guess, given that you replaced the pin; but didn't change the shape of it's tip, you're within .1V of the best you could expect right now. If you do a fuse modification, don't improvise unless you check in with the crew here. Seems there's been a bit of improvisation going on without sufficient know-how. Feel free to ask about the fuse mod; PM me if you like.


The AW IMR 2000mAh has more internal resistance than the 1600mAh. In my opinion, below .8Ω resistance, you'd notice a marked difference there too.
 

BlaqueJezus

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well a .5+V drop on a .7Ω coil seems about like what you'd expect for a stock REO. About 65% of that is the spring. 30% is in the pin; but that's both materials and shape. Also, it's important that, when one replaces the pin, the connection at the 510+ post is solid with good contact (a nice firm joint of the screw-on nipple . . . . . without twisting so hard that you shear it . . . . . . . .. I've actually undone one where I discovered that I had screwed it on so tight that I sheared it half way through. That's not gonna be a very good electrical connection.) The last 5% I found was in polishing the chrome off the head of the 510+ pin and atty 510 ...., clean battery contacts, sell seated atty, and like that.

I guess, given that you replaced the pin; but didn't change the shape of it's tip, you're within .1V of the best you could expect right now. If you do a fuse modification, don't improvise unless you check in with the crew here. Seems there's been a bit of improvisation going on without sufficient know-how. Feel free to ask about the fuse mod; PM me if you like.


The AW IMR 2000mAh has more internal resistance than the 1600mAh. In my opinion, below .8Ω resistance, you'd notice a marked difference there too.

I rolled the end of the firing pin just like in the photos ImageUploadedByTapatalk1388682736.681536.jpg

Pm incoming :)


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BlaqueJezus

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When you replace the spring be careful. The stock spring is a fuse, designed to collapse with a hard short. The mods that replace it with a fuse are still safe but with a spring of unknown properties you very well may have no protection from a hard short and risk having a severe battery incident.

I didn't replace it with just another spring, I bought the repair kit from rob and used the spring that was in that. For whatever reason the one from the repair kit gave me less voltage drop. Both springs are the OEM ones.
 
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