I've also heard it stores better in VG for long-term storage. The thicker consistency of the VG keeps the molecules from moving around and interacting with each other, limiting the amount of oxidation that can occur over time. At least that's how I understand it, according to our resident chemist @Kurt. And with 100mg nic, it doesn't matter much for mixing ratios, since it's only going to be a few percent of your total mix. I've used both, and while PG is a lot easier to work with when using syringes, I've since switched to dropper bottles and a nice .01g digital scale, so that's no longer really an issue for me and I plan to make all my future nic purchases in VG base.
Want to stockpile re FDA, but what to get for DIY?
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Many thanks for the replies -- now I understand how that works with regard to mixing juice and the PG ratio needed.
I do have one other question at the moment. I've noticed with the batteries I've used so far, all 510 threading, that quite a few seem to "lose" the threading such that they won't screw onto the atomizer/tank AND won't screw into the charger. I've tried cleaning the threading with a bit of alcohol on a Q-tip, and it hasn't made any difference. So I have several batteries sitting around here (eGos, a Lotus, some others) that are not very old and still rechargeable, but I can't charge them.
Assuming that the 18650-battery mods I will be buying have 510 threading, what happens down the road in the bleak future when the threading somehow messes up and I can't screw them onto the atomizer/tank? I know I'll be using a different charger unit for 18650's, so that probably won't be an issue, but the threading.....?
I do have one other question at the moment. I've noticed with the batteries I've used so far, all 510 threading, that quite a few seem to "lose" the threading such that they won't screw onto the atomizer/tank AND won't screw into the charger. I've tried cleaning the threading with a bit of alcohol on a Q-tip, and it hasn't made any difference. So I have several batteries sitting around here (eGos, a Lotus, some others) that are not very old and still rechargeable, but I can't charge them.
Assuming that the 18650-battery mods I will be buying have 510 threading, what happens down the road in the bleak future when the threading somehow messes up and I can't screw them onto the atomizer/tank? I know I'll be using a different charger unit for 18650's, so that probably won't be an issue, but the threading.....?
If you're handy with a soldering iron, sometimes you can replace the 510 connector with a new one (you can get a new one at FatDaddyVapes.com, among other places). Failing that, try and buy mods with stainless steel threads for durability. Your eGo batteries probably have a softer chromed brass as the threading material and if you're attaching atomizers that have steel threads, then they're going to chew up the brass pretty easily.
Are there other types of connectors besides 510s? Which would I suppose require a different type of atomizer ....
Not many. Mostly cig-a-likes, and yes, they would require a specialized atomizer or an adapter if you wanted to use them with your existing 510-threaded atties. Some of them have proprietary connections, that won't fit anything but their own kind (VUSE, MarkTEN, etc.). You might find a few KR-808 cartos and batteries, but they're pretty old tech these days. The standard 510 connection is based off another old cig-a-like, the "510" model by JoyeTech. Blu uses the standard 510 threads, but they have their positive and negative switched so do not ever use Blu batteries or chargers with anything but other Blu batteries and chargers. The cartos don't care what way the current is running through them however, so you can freely mix-and-match their batteries and cartos with other brands, just don't get the chargers mixed up or you're gonna have a bad time. Some atties are "hybrid" (true-hybrid) that are designed to screw directly onto the battery tube of a mech mod. These will usually have the thread dimensions given, something like M21x1" or "M20x0.5" which refers to the diameter and pitch of the threads, so you will know which mods' tubes it will fit (presuming you know what the threads of your mod are in the first place.) The last one I can think of at the moment is ProVape's "P3" connection used on some of their ProVari devices. You can get some atomizers like the Aspire Nautilus or the Kabuki tank with a P3 connection on the bottom instead of a 510.
Yeah, it concerns me that the 510 connectors seem to strip so easily. I will look for mods that have stainless steel 510s. I did find this on youtube that looks like a promising fix, too:
And have found the same type crimper available via www.dhgate.com -- wonder if the local NAPA would have it ....
And have found the same type crimper available via www.dhgate.com -- wonder if the local NAPA would have it ....
Specials of the week. I've got some of these that I bought used over two years ago and the threading is still good, because it is high quality stainless steel, the electronics still function like the day they were new, You can thank me later, or ignore this post, but surely these are the best value and option for hedging your bets to be vaping for a very long time out of most of the gear that is on the market...I've got a whole bunch of them because I plan to continue vaping for about twenty years or so...
I have mods that are going on 4 years of use and never had a problem with the threading on the 510. I have had to lift a 510 pin when it got pushed down and replace an O Ring or 2 but no problems with threading.
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Funny, I always heard that the PG base nic stores better because of the thinner base, but who knows. We can check with each other in 10 years and see whose taste better
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I went with PG myself, it sets up pretty thick at -10 degrees, and when thawed is much easier to accurately measure and dispense with a syringe. I was under the impression that PG has a longer shelf life than VG hence my decision. I also spread out my stock from different vendors in case some keep better than others. We are all just hedging our bets on this stockpiling being viable long term, Judging from posters who are claiming three years plus and their stock is still viable gives me hope that there will be nic out there for a long time coming, and I'd be willing to bet that at least some of it is destined for the future black market. Just saying...it's a pretty cheap investment that could yield a huge profit for those willingFunny, I always heard that the PG based stores better because of the thinner base, but who knows. We can check with each other in 10 years and see whose taste better
I have a couple of Beacon Mech Mods from Beyond Vapes. Authentic Mech Mods for $25 They are small decent telescopic mods that can take most of the 18XXX series of batteries. The Beacon can handle most RDAs and Tanks with no problems. Check out some YouTube videos
Absolutely, KF3 mini is a solid tank and clones from Tobecco are pretty good.How about the new IPVD3S? Paired with the Kayfun Mini this set-up should do you for a while
Yep, you also can't beat the IPVs with the YIHI chip. I may get this set-up for my brother and then get him a Beacon Mech mod for future proofing
The IPV only has a Yihi chip if it is a D3 or above, correct?Yep, you also can't beat the IPVs with the YIHI chip. I may get this set-up for my brother and then get him a Beacon Mech mod for future proofing
SB just watch carefully when you drop them in the cart. The one listed under the pictures for $29.95 changes to $49.95 when you add it to the cart. That is STILL a steal for a high quality mod which these are, but I wanted to give you a heads up on that. And also, they have some really nice colors and finishes for $49.95 if you're willing to pay that price. IMO ProVape is a very honest, respected company. I imagine if you contacted them and pointed out the discrepancy they would sell it to you for the advertised price.
I believe so. I know the D3 and new D3 S has the YIHI as well as the IPV3 LI and the IPV5. I'm sure the IPV4 does as well. I don't know what the others have.
SB just watch carefully when you drop them in the cart. The one listed under the pictures for $29.95 changes to $49.95 when you add it to the cart. That is STILL a steal for a high quality mod which these are, but I wanted to give you a heads up on that. And also, they have some really nice colors and finishes for $49.95 if you're willing to pay that price. IMO ProVape is a very honest, respected company. I imagine if you contacted them and pointed out the discrepancy they would sell it to you for the advertised price.
I've been looking into more info about the Provari, and have a question. They come with a chip, and it's this chip that allows for programming one's vape, provides safety alerts as to problems and fixes for the system, etc. I understand that Provape will fix and return problem Provaris (1-yr warranty and all that). My concern is that I'm looking for a mod that will last me a long time, potentially 20 years or more. What happens to a Provari down the road if the chip goes bad and IF Provape is forced out of business by the FDA Regs?
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