Want to stockpile re FDA, but what to get for DIY?

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WillyZee

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I've been looking into more info about the Provari, and have a question. They come with a chip, and it's this chip that allows for programming one's vape, provides safety alerts as to problems and fixes for the system, etc. I understand that Provape will fix and return problem Provaris (1-yr warranty and all that). My concern is that I'm looking for a mod that will last me a long time, potentially 20 years or more. What happens to a Provari down the road if the chip goes bad and IF Provape is forced out of business by the FDA Regs?

chances are the chip will last a very long time (there is no indication of them failing, even after more than 6 years) ... the ProVari v2 and v2.5 are probably the longest lasting, most durable, and safest regulated e-cigarettes ever made.

HoHProvaris14.jpg
 

SpiritBear

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One of the things I like about Provari is stainless steel 510s. I just had another 510 quit on me this week and the battery (vision spinner) is only a couple of months old if that -- now has to go in the trash because of the 510.

Besides Provari, are there any other mods with replaceable batteries that have stainless steel 510s?
 

BostonJim

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You can't subohm, but a Provari 2.5 and Kayfun combo should last many years. With a hundred feet of wire, I think my set-up will out last me. But I'll get a 2nd one to be sure.

I DIY my own liquid, so nicotine has me worried, and since I only use tobacco flavor. I'm learning to extract flavor through maceration.
 

orion7319

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I've been looking into more info about the Provari, and have a question. They come with a chip, and it's this chip that allows for programming one's vape, provides safety alerts as to problems and fixes for the system, etc. I understand that Provape will fix and return problem Provaris (1-yr warranty and all that). My concern is that I'm looking for a mod that will last me a long time, potentially 20 years or more. What happens to a Provari down the road if the chip goes bad and IF Provape is forced out of business by the FDA Regs?

I had the same concerns and went to one of my local BM's and picked up an 18650 Mec (authentic caravela mod) for less than $30.00. What I like about it is that it seems to be good quality and it has a reverse threaded screw on the bottom which acts like a lock to prevent the mod from firing when it's locked down. I've had a Mec that didn't have this feature fire in my pocket and about catch my shorts on fire before I noticed it, so that's a good feature to look for in a Mec I think. If your not subohming you really don't have much in the way of worring about in terms of blowing the batt from exceeding the amperage it's capable of discharging. If your at 1.8 ohms or so, the draw on the batt is going to be around 3 amps or so... So you basically only have to worry about shorts is all. I myself only use Kayfuns with microcoils in the 1.5 to 2 ohm range. 1.6-1.8 with 30guage happens to be where I like it. Also keep in mind that in the world of unregulated devices you actually have to use math to figure out how to get the vape where you liked it. The three basic factors you have to consider is the diameter of the coil, the gauge of the wire and how many wraps of coil you use. I recommend playing around with steam engine for a bit so you can see how all these factors come into play. Thinner gauge wire will get hotter than a heavier gauge at higher ohms (which is good if you like a warmer vape) and the coils are quicker to pop, which in my opinion makes them safer when using a Mech. In the olden days all we had were cigalikes and mechs and the cigalikes were horrible. This meant for me that one of the first things I ever had to learn about vaping was how to do it without making my batteries angry and it's not that hard a thing to learn so don't feel intimidated by it. Hope this helps :)
Coil wrapping
 

SpiritBear

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I had the same concerns and went to one of my local BM's and picked up an 18650 Mec (authentic caravela mod) for less than $30.00. What I like about it is that it seems to be good quality and it has a reverse threaded screw on the bottom which acts like a lock to prevent the mod from firing when it's locked down. (... good stuff snipped)... This meant for me that one of the first things I ever had to learn about vaping was how to do it without making my batteries angry and it's not that hard a thing to learn so don't feel intimidated by it. Hope this helps :)
Coil wrapping

Thank you for this information, orion7319 -- I've been doing some reading up on the Caravela, as I hadn't heard of it before. Really like how it looks, for starters. Found a few for sale, and not positive they are authentic Caravelas or clones, but one that IS a clone mentions the reverse threaded screw (which sounds important to have) so I'm thinking of getting that one but have a question. That particular one also has the 3-pin adjustable contact pin and I recall seeing somewhere that those are a pain in the lakiska -- but maybe that's related to the RDA that comes with it. I'm not a dripper and don't need that but would probably keep it in case I ever want to give dripping a try. A sub-ohm battery is available as an option, I'm not going to get that. Any thoughts on the 3-pin adjustable contact pin, is it something I would need to worry about if I don't use an RDA?
 

orion7319

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Thank you for this information, orion7319 -- I've been doing some reading up on the Caravela, as I hadn't heard of it before. Really like how it looks, for starters. Found a few for sale, and not positive they are authentic Caravelas or clones, but one that IS a clone mentions the reverse threaded screw (which sounds important to have) so I'm thinking of getting that one but have a question. That particular one also has the 3-pin adjustable contact pin and I recall seeing somewhere that those are a pain in the lakiska -- but maybe that's related to the RDA that comes with it. I'm not a dripper and don't need that but would probably keep it in case I ever want to give dripping a try. A sub-ohm battery is available as an option, I'm not going to get that. Any thoughts on the 3-pin adjustable contact pin, is it something I would need to worry about if I don't use an RDA?
I bought mine at a B&M and I only got one adjustable pin. It's basically just a simple grub screw and the length seems to work with the two 18650 batteries that I have. It's easily adjustable, however what I don't like about it is that the screw is threaded into the derlin insulator at the top so that would seem to be a potential week spot. I'm not planning on messing around with it a whole lot and if if does break I'm sure I can rig something up, most likely a small bolt with a nut or something (Fastenal is a great place to look for that kind of thing BTW) Regarding the legth. If it is off, you actually have three to choose from and also the Kayfuns have an adjustable center pin as well. As far as the RDA's that would be specific to the RDA. I don't use RDAs myself as I have never enjoyed dripping so I can't offer any recommendations on those.
 

orion7319

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I should clarify as I broke out one if my Kayun lights last night. With the Kayun lights you can't adjust the screw at the bottom as this could twist the positive terminal into the negative post resulting in a short. The Kayun 3.1 has a cup on the bottom and the screw goes between that and the rest of the atty so you can adjust that pin to a degree. The 3.1 modded with a top fill cap is my personal favorite, for a variety of reasons, among them is the fact I can adjust the pin on it, the cup makes it a lot less prone to leak and it's super simple.
 

SpiritBear

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I should clarify as I broke out one if my Kayun lights last night. With the Kayun lights you can't adjust the screw at the bottom as this could twist the positive terminal into the negative post resulting in a short. The Kayun 3.1 has a cup on the bottom and the screw goes between that and the rest of the atty so you can adjust that pin to a degree. The 3.1 modded with a top fill cap is my personal favorite, for a variety of reasons, among them is the fact I can adjust the pin on it, the cup makes it a lot less prone to leak and it's super simple.

Thanks for this info, orion7319. I ordered two original Kayfun Lite Plus V2s, and a couple more that are clones. The originals have just the one screw on the bottom as you point out. However, included in the package are 2 other screws, what would those be for?

Also, what gauge of Kanthal wire should I get for rebuilds on these?
 

orion7319

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Thanks for this info, orion7319. I ordered two original Kayfun Lite Plus V2s, and a couple more that are clones. The originals have just the one screw on the bottom as you point out. However, included in the package are 2 other screws, what would those be for?

Also, what gauge of Kanthal wire should I get for rebuilds on these?
I think you might be referring to the spare screws that secure the Kanthal. Those are the only spares I remember getting. The other screws that can be found on Kayfuns or clones besides the positive contact screw are the fill screws on the bottom and the airflow adjustment grub screws that most people seem to remove all together and loose. I like to use 30 or 32 gauge myself but 28 is a lot easier to use. You might want to consider getting one of these as well if your new to making your own coils. I don't have one myself, but that's only because I never seem to get around to ordering one.
http://www.coil-master.net/product/coil-master-coiling-kit-v3
 
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