Its easy to build on, but be warned, the deck is TINY. It should still be able to rock and roll with anything 2.5mm in diameter and below though.
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I haven't had any issues with the insulators in mine since I got the brown PEEK
My new brown PEEK is bulging out a bit. I'm hoping it's because I tightened it down too much. I also got it hotter than usual too because of a weak batch of juice I mixed; I realized too late that I didn't have enough flavoring left; bummer.
My replacement insulator came out of the first batch of brown ones that Kanger got. It may not be as good as later ones. I just ordered a few more, just in case.
I also ordered some better insulator material from the supplier that Svoemesto uses; much higher grade stuff. From now on I am going to use this in all the tanks I buy; never again will I have to wonder what's mixing with my juice.
ErnieKim
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Really, it looks big in the pictures I've seen. The next time you have it apart would you mind posting a picture of it; with a penny or something to scale from sitting beside it? (A birds-eye view from the top).
Glad you're liking it, you deserve a break.
Thanks,
Yeah, from all the videos I had watched, I had expected it to be a tad bigger than it is, but honestly once you understand how to build on it, its fine. I'll grab a pic when I refill next. My only con with the goblin tank is it fills from the bottom and if you want to make any adjustments to your build after its filled, you have to finish the juice in the tank or else its gonna go everywhere. I do love how easy the subtank mini is to check on things/make any adjustments and also ease of refilling. The goblin tank is much shorter than the mini though, which I also love.
Since I make my own juice, I don't need to be as careful with juice loss. It used to really bother me to watch dollars going down the drain, now it's just a few cents. Seriously, a 30 ml bottle costs me less than 2 dollars and it's better tasting and safer than store-bought.
The smaller size will be plus. Smaller is better. I feel silly wearing a fanny pack to carry things but I live in Florida and the tanks pull my swimsuit down; what's a man to do?
Link? I have not been able to find it on their site.
Also, anyone with a 25mm ST and a 22mm ST know if the 510 pin from the full size can be used on the mini? If so, does it solve some of the connection issues?
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Yes they can. I swapped mine as soon as I got it since I favor the Mini. I'll post a picture when I get home.
****** Just push it out easily from the inside. You might mess it up if you try to pull it out. *******
Here they are. I posted this issue on another forum. The spring loaded one is of course far superior but kind of sketchy for sub ohm. Don't know if I'd do it quite honestly. I don't sub ohm.
ErnieKim
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Strange, it was on there the other day, seems they removed it or sold out of them. Sweetvapes also has them in stock (for a slightly higher price)
Oops, forgot one.
Again, I'd be careful with sub ohm, I heard second-hand that there were problems and that's why they changed it. The pin is pretty small and even more so on the inside where it makes contact with the larger brass contact. The spring becomes the sacrificial part and melts quite easily; yes, another thing to melt!
The spring loaded contact works good on my worn out sticky, LONG Vamo though. I'm thinking about beefing up the spring in the Vamo contact but it's hardly worth it. The Vamo is not my favorite anymore, unless I'm on a dark street and need a weapon.
ErnieKim
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I did some accelerated aging tests on the most current revision "Brown" RBA insulator material. I was pleased to see that it tolerated 72 continuous hours of simulated use (abuse) with no measurable change in hardness.
I performed a light Rockwell test leaving a measured indentation in the insulator material. I then set up a simple circuit to cycle the fluid-filled tank; 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off. The coil was 1.3 ohms and the wattage was 11. After the first 15 minutes, the outside of the tank was ~95 digress F and stayed about the same for the 72 hour duration of the experiment. After 72 hours, I removed the insulator and repeated the hardness test, there was no change in the dimension of the Rockwell indentation, indicating no change in material hardness.
This of course does not mean that all insulators would produce the same results. We have observed fairly significant deviations between insulators of the same supposed type; i.e. some clear insulators melting and others not melting. So my experiment should not be considered "applicable" to anyone else's insulator. It's simply a single data point that I was quite pleased to see.
So now I can enjoy this Great tank with the peace of mind that if it can take that level of abuse, it will likely stand up to my Much less aggressive use. I'll still keep an eye on it though!
Erniekim
I performed a light Rockwell test leaving a measured indentation in the insulator material. I then set up a simple circuit to cycle the fluid-filled tank; 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off. The coil was 1.3 ohms and the wattage was 11. After the first 15 minutes, the outside of the tank was ~95 digress F and stayed about the same for the 72 hour duration of the experiment. After 72 hours, I removed the insulator and repeated the hardness test, there was no change in the dimension of the Rockwell indentation, indicating no change in material hardness.
This of course does not mean that all insulators would produce the same results. We have observed fairly significant deviations between insulators of the same supposed type; i.e. some clear insulators melting and others not melting. So my experiment should not be considered "applicable" to anyone else's insulator. It's simply a single data point that I was quite pleased to see.
So now I can enjoy this Great tank with the peace of mind that if it can take that level of abuse, it will likely stand up to my Much less aggressive use. I'll still keep an eye on it though!
Erniekim
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That's great news. Thank you! I have been using the pre-installed dual coils on the rba deck which reads .4 ohm on my 100 watt plus. I'm thinking of taking them out now after reading your recommendation.
You're very welcome. I've gotten so much help from some people here that I thought I would try to provide a little something in return. Based on my finding, there's likely some "wiggle room" so you could probably push the envelope a bit. Perhaps you should wait till you get a replacement though.
Ernie Kim
Oh I have gotten the brown insulators. I have yet to take the dual coils out and I have checked periodically and the insulator is holding up nicely.You're very welcome. I've gotten so much help from some people here that I thought I would try to provide a little something in return. Based on my finding, there's likely some "wiggle room" so you could probably push the envelope a bit. Perhaps you should wait till you get a replacement though.
Ernie Kim
Btw, we share the same first name
Oh I have gotten the brown insulators. I have yet to take the dual coils out and I have checked periodically and the insulator is holding up nicely.
Btw, we share the same first name
Cool, I'm glad to see that it's become OK again, finally; the days of "Bert & Ernie" and "Ernest Goes to Camp" are long gone!
I just got several new brown insulators so I thought that I would duplicate my experiment at a higher temperature. I did the first one quite low because that's how I vape. Since I still have all the equipment set up, I thought I would see what the new insulator can withstand.
Since I don't sub-ohm, I don't know what a "typical" or "common" setup would be. If you all would tell me some common builds/wattages, I'd be happy to sacrifice one of my new insulators "for the cause"; I'm curious to know what it can take now, and perhaps others could vape without any concern about deterioration.
I have a 50 watt Zen and can build most any type/size coil so don't be shy, but do suggest something you would actually use. I'd use a juice with heavy cinnamon to be conservative; if it withstands cinnamon, it will probably withstand anything, with the exception of Pluid!
We can keep going until the insulator gives out entirely but work our way up using some realistic/common setups and wattages.
Suggest Away!
ErnieKim
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I got a suggestion to build a .5 ohm coil for the next run of the experiment. What is a common sub-ohm wattage? I know there will be huge variation but I need a single "typical" wattage, sort of an "all-day" vape wattage.
I tell you what. After I started using the rba heads in the Subtank and the Subtank mini, I won't use the occ heads unless I absolutely have to. The wicking is so much better and the flavor is much better.
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