What am I doing wrong?

[Liquidkam]

Lemo drop. Keep getting dry hits with it on a DT-100 box set to 25 watts. The DT-100 reads my build at .9 ohms. I was having a dry hit issue and I watched a video that outlined the Pancake wick method. Tried my hand at it and it was going well for 2 days and just now I got a big nasty dry hit. I am really getting discouraged by RTAs because I have the same issue with the kanger. Since it is a cross platform issue with me I am thinking that it's something that I am doing wrong. Which means I need to get my shot together... Except for the life of me I can't figure out where I am going wrong. Please see pictures below and let me know if you see something wrong with my build or offer suggestions. Thanks.

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[Liquidkam]

Just some extra information yes the screws are tight and it reads fine with a multimeter from the base and the screws.

 

[dam718]

What is the mixture of the juice you're using? And what is the size of the wire you used for the coil?

Usually dry hits are the result of the wick not keeping up with the coil. If the juice is thicker, you may want to use a little less wicking material. Is the wicking packed pretty tight inside the coil? You want it to be firm, but not packed tight. It should be able to move around inside the coil.

The last part, you may just be running it too hot. Try running it at lower watts.

Do you happen to know if you have any hot spots on the coil? If you're using Kanthal / Nichrome, maybe a touching microcoil would work out better for you?

 

[Liquidkam]

I have tried touching coils of 3 different sizes the one pictured being the largest. The wicking material is as you described. It's 26 gauge kanthal. In the kanger I was running touching coils .5 ohm coil simalarly wicked. juice is 30/70 PG/VG.

 

[Cullin Kin]

I do a 10 wrap touching micro on a 2.38mm screwdriver (3/32") with 26 gauge kanthal. It usually comes out to 1.4Ω and I set it at 18.5W. It's the perfect vape, all the time.

The hardest part about the Lemo is getting the wicking right. The way I wick is with the chimney removed:

1) Thread the wick through. There should be a tiny bit of resistance if you're pulling the wick back and forth, but it should slide pretty easily.
2) Trim the wick so the edges lie just outside the outside diameter of the base that says 'Lemo' on it.
3) Fold the wick up and slide the base of the chimney over the wick.
4) Take a small screwdriver and tuck each wick into it's respective pocket.
5) Wet the wick with your juice.
6) Finally, use the small screwdriver to clear the wick from the juice channels. If you look from the top, you should be able to see the juice channels.

This works without fail every time. I will try and post a photo tomorrow (I guess today... I need to go to bed)

 

[Liquidkam]

Thanks. The one thing I keep going back to thinking about is how the wick is always soaked after I check it when getting a dry hit. I'm wondering how a soaked wick can produce a dry hit. Too much power is the only thing I can come up with but 25 watts isn't out of the range for .9 ohms. Maybe it's the fact that the damned DT-100 bottoms out at 7.5 volts for some reason.

 

[Jesse85]

Lemo drop. Keep getting dry hits with it on a DT-100 box set to 25 watts. The DT-100 reads my build at .9 ohms. I was having a dry hit issue and I watched a video that outlined the Pancake wick method. Tried my hand at it and it was going well for 2 days and just now I got a big nasty dry hit. I am really getting discouraged by RTAs because I have the same issue with the kanger. Since it is a cross platform issue with me I am thinking that it's something that I am doing wrong. Which means I need to get my shot together... Except for the life of me I can't figure out where I am going wrong. Please see pictures below and let me know if you see something wrong with my build or offer suggestions. Thanks.

[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)][/COLOR][COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/KameronTKelly/media/CA92B95F-2ED1-4A5E-8252-2B5B795CB3BB_zpsoetotimt.jpg.html] [/COLOR][COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]
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I didn't like the pancake wick personally. I usually go with 3 mm id , some times 2.5 mm but wick it chunky thru the chimney and tuck it back in and make sure you can see good light thru the holes.. I usually take a flashlight to the bottom to see down the chimney better and make sure the cotton is touching the deck by not blocking those juice channels..

This is my current build 26 g twisted kanthal. I vapor between 40-50 watts but had it up to 65 comfortably chain vaping.

I had trouble with my wicking too, but once you get it down you good

 

[Liquidkam]

Thanks! I am working with Ni200 on another device now. Found out the Kanger has an issue somewhere. I wicked the two lemos one the regular way 1 strand 9 wraps, push cotton through, and push ends down after chimeny install. It works like a champ. The other one I pulled a sheet of cotton in two to get half the thickness and wrapped it around a driver. Then wrapped double twist Ni200 around the cotton blanketed nail 7 times. Installed the legs and then removed the driver. It's working great. The Kanger in the other hand is getting Nast hits even in my Mini M with the temp control set to 425f. Something is definitely amiss. I can't seem to figure that one out. No matter what I do it's disgusting and super heated. The Mini M isn't detecting that it's over heating either....

 

[john333]

Its possible you tainted your liquid. If you scorch a coil in a tank, that nasty taste can become part of the liquid in the tank. If you transfer that liquid back to your bottle it can taint the whole bottle. That was a bigger problem a couple years back before technology got us past a lot of that. Don't have near as many people taking about dry hits these days.

 

[nevillebartos]

Its possible you tainted your liquid. If you scorch a coil in a tank, that nasty taste can become part of the liquid in the tank. If you transfer that liquid back to your bottle it can taint the whole bottle. That was a bigger problem a couple years back before technology got us past a lot of that. Don't have near as many people taking about dry hits these days.

This happened to me on my nautilus, changing coil / liquid couldn't get rid of it, had to disassemble and let everything soak in gin then rinse with water. Havn't had this happen with my rebuildable but a good clean and a rebuild are the steps I'd take.

 

[Toastyroadie]

So, did you get the wicking sorted? Here's a great youtube vid and how he wicks for max VG and high watts. Wicking is everything with the lemo.

 

[Ryedan]

So, did you get the wicking sorted? Here's a great youtube vid and how he wicks for max VG and high watts. Wicking is everything with the lemo.

That's a great video Toastyroadie. I do that process with fluffing the wicks and trimming them with all my builds now and I'm loving it. Lemo, Billow, Aqua and RDAs, everything works better and more consistent for me.

 

[Verb]

If you get sick and frustrated with tanks, you can always pack them in and get a bottom feeder. It will solve all your tank problem (and create new squonker problems, but those are easier to deal with).

 

[stvn77]

try this... kanthal 28, 1.6 omh coil 3mm diameter at 9 watts... just to start
if you feel it to week just rise watts

i had the same issue in a subtank... i was burning juice and gunked coils to fast