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A kick will boost the voltage (and provide control of the voltage or power) so that you aren't just stuck with a single combination of battery voltage and coil resistance. You can "tweak the heat" to get the vape you like. They are for higher-resistance coils, though (generally 1 ohm and up). However, they can put as much power into a higher-resistance coil than your current setup with the .6 ohms (since you're stuck with whatever voltage your battery is currently putting out).
Depending on your kick it sets your watts or volts to a specific range and keeps them their. I have a watts kick. I adjust my kick for what ever watts I want to vape on my nemisis with and it keeps the watts stable and at that level. Hope this helps
It also provides you with a consistent vape throughout the charge of your battery from full charge (4.2 volts) down to when it needs recharging (around 2.7-2.8 volts). Meaning each vape you take will be the exact same. It will take away the problem of the battery drop off that you get when running a strictly mechanical mod on battery charge and will allow you to be between 5-15 watts for a longer duration of time as opposed to using a mech without a kick. The specs I mentioned are for the legit Kick2 by Evolv
If you do not know what a kick does you probably shouldn't be sub ohming yet. Just sayin! Enjoy the day!
Kick is just a generic term for one of several voltage regulators for mechanical mods, not just the Evolv Kick. The fancier ones will adjust the volts to get a desired wattage. They can provide a more consistent vape, but TANSTAAFL*.
The end goal is to get power (Watts) to the coil. For vapers, using ohm's law you get to Watts = Volts * Volts / Ohms.
For unregulated mechanical mods, you can not control the volts, so you control the ohms on your coil. This will increase the amps which will increase the watts. Regulated mods will increase the volts to increase the watts. In most cases, there is no point in sub-ohming on a regulated mod, and most of them won't support it.
The downside to kicks are:
- Less efficient - they consume more power than they output
- Less responsive - they increase the volts by storing in capacitors then discharging (pulsing). This takes a little longer to heat the coil, but is really only noticeable in some builds
- Wattage limits - Most kicks are limited to 15 watts, nicer ones at 20 watts. Your build will exceed that at 3.6 volts to the coil.
- Battery limits - The minimum charge on your battery is higher to use a kick. When it reaches that limit, it will stop working.
There are a few others that come down to fitment on your mod, but it really is a matter of preference. IMO, regulated mods are like driving an automatic, kicks are like manumatics, and unregulated mechanical mods are like driving a manual. You can get more performance out of it, but you need to know what you are doing.
*TANSTAAFL - There aint no such thing as a free lunch!
The end goal is to get power (Watts) to the coil. For vapers, using ohm's law you get to Watts = Volts * Volts / Ohms.
For unregulated mechanical mods, you can not control the volts, so you control the ohms on your coil. This will increase the amps which will increase the watts. Regulated mods will increase the volts to increase the watts. In most cases, there is no point in sub-ohming on a regulated mod, and most of them won't support it.
The downside to kicks are:
- Less efficient - they consume more power than they output
- Less responsive - they increase the volts by storing in capacitors then discharging (pulsing). This takes a little longer to heat the coil, but is really only noticeable in some builds
- Wattage limits - Most kicks are limited to 15 watts, nicer ones at 20 watts. Your build will exceed that at 3.6 volts to the coil.
- Battery limits - The minimum charge on your battery is higher to use a kick. When it reaches that limit, it will stop working.
There are a few others that come down to fitment on your mod, but it really is a matter of preference. IMO, regulated mods are like driving an automatic, kicks are like manumatics, and unregulated mechanical mods are like driving a manual. You can get more performance out of it, but you need to know what you are doing.
*TANSTAAFL - There aint no such thing as a free lunch!
Absolutely. Batteries are rated in mAh which is milliamp hours= amps/time. Either directly affects the other.
I have a Kick-2 in my Nemesis, but that's because the resistance I want to use in my Kayfun is to hot on a fresh battery, and if I up the resistance so that it's good on a fresh battery it has me swapping out batteries to soon.
I just set the Kick-2 to 10 watts, and I get my desired 3.5v from start to finish.
Kick-2 + HCigar Nemesis = 1/2 the price of a Provari
I just set the Kick-2 to 10 watts, and I get my desired 3.5v from start to finish.
Kick-2 + HCigar Nemesis = 1/2 the price of a Provari
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I should have mentioned that your desired wattage is greatly affected by your atty and build. The shape and position of your coils can make them too hot to vape at given wattages. Air flow, firing chamber size, and even your drip tip can also affect this. So while you can do more watts, you may not want to
While the Provari is a finely machined mod with great overall build quality, your Kick + HC Nemi probably outperforms it. The watt limit is pretty low on it. There are some amazing regulated mods in that price range now, and some ridiculous ones in the $200 - $300 range.
I'm not aware of a kick module that will go to 30 watts. Kick 2 by Evolv and I believe one from Sigelei can do 15 watts.
I am cross posting a little, I just received a wattage kick (ebay special) it works but I'm trying to figure out how to adjust it. A multi meter doesn't seem to work when I mearure from "on" pin to body I always get 3.3V no matter the pot screw setting.
The best I can figure is counter clockwaise is higher watts?
The best I can figure is counter clockwaise is higher watts?
I believe there is a small Phillips screw on the Kick that you turn either clockwise to raise it or counter clockwise to reduce.. not 100% sure about which direction is which.
It seems that you are rightif it was a VV one could easily measure the voltage with a multi meter, but mine is a wattage model so I don't know how that would be measured. As far as a comparison to a Provari this is a great deal but I've had to take channel locks to it a couple times to lossen threads its really not in the same class as my provari but does get the job done almost as well as my SVD.
Has anyone tried the magnet switch mod? I got a set but am hesistant to try because an 18650 battery plus the kick extension may be enough to turn the switch on while putting it down for a second in between puffs?
Haven't tried a magnet switch mod, for a spring mod yet. Though I really like the magnet switch on my mod that came with it. It would depend on how the switch mod was constructed if I used it or not I would think. I would look for something like on my magneto where its not posiable to presse the two magnets together by pressing down on the battery.
I haven't see any kicks that go that high.. yet.
A vv kick will keep your voltage constant;
not sure what the current limit on this one is but it would have a current limit
Details:
•Variable Voltage - can be adjustable from 3.2V to 4.8V
•Tolerance: ±0.1V
•Short circuit protection
•Compatible with most mechanical mods
Thanks for the picture, I had stambles right at the 4.2V mark which makes perfect sense for a 2 ohm coils. Its working great.
My other nemesis is of better construction put didn't come with a extra extension and beauty ring for the kick (made it a lot easier to figure out how to put together, ha ha.) I think I'll leave it pure mechanical for 16350 batteries. I like holding it like an analog cigarette.
The nemesis clones if you get a good one are certainly the bang for the buck leaders, I think I paid $22 shipped for me last one. One could collect these things.
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