What Is The Realistic Lifespan of a Provari?

[jwbnyc]

I'm just curious.

Has anyone managed to wear out a ProVari?

What would it take?

What killed it?

Did the threads wear out?

I know you could replace the tube, the board, the topcap, bottom cap, etc., etc., but has anyone actually killed one dead without putting it through a wood chipper or something?

Is there a lifespan here, or are they essentially immortal?

 

[madangus]

@Baditude would be a good person for this...

I have seen many posts with folks using em 3 4 years later. I think the chip would eventually fail, but i dunno 3 4 5 years may be a reasonable expectation if not longer.

I am no authority whatsoever, just what i have seen reported. They sure do feel like they could be immortal don't they

 

[Zen~]

My original ProVari that was purchased in the original thread back when they released 5 years ago still works.... I own over 75 of them... They all still work.

 

[madangus]

@Zen~ that is awesome

3 18650 cap 2.5s, 1 2.5 mini and a p3 fir me, expect em to last a long time

 

[LouisLeBeau]

I've tried, God knows I've tried... I posted a thread about the latest threat here:
This darn Provari just WILL NOT DIE! | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[jwbnyc]

I just out grew mine, it makes a good paper weight

Yeah, but it probably still fires.

 

[LouisLeBeau]

They will probably never be valuable collectors items. There will be far too many original model working models in circulation 50 years from now. They're really that tough.

Now what I DO Have high hopes for, is my first "bagless" cell phone. It looks like something the military would use to call in an airstrike in the battlefield. Big antennae and LCD screen. Almost need two hands to hold it. THAT sucker still would work with a good battery, and there can't be many of those out there!

 

[ENAUD]

Electronic devices can be funny things. I've got some shortwave radios that are 15+ years old and still going strong. Once they are burned in and stable, some devices can function for many years before components begin to fail. I would bet good money that many ProVari's will still be functioning at least another ten or more years down the road.

 

[WillyZee]

seeing as the average lifespan exceeds the age of the oldest Provaris ... estimations on failure for those first Provi are currently ... the year 2076

 

[tearose50]

I seem to recall a story of a gentleman who had a ProVari from the first batch (V1) and used it as his daily driver for about 4 years when it started showing some internal aging problems -- perhaps due to numerous drops and such abuses a long life PV can encounter. I don't recall what the specific problem was, but I think it was not always firing. It seems ProVape retired the device when they received it and sent him a new one. It was one of the oldest ProVari's and might have even been a Beta.

My perfectly operating V1 was 4 when I decided to send it in for upgrade to V2, well used, but not my daily driver, just a stable part of my arsenal.

 

[WillyZee]

I just recently bought a used V1 ... not sure how old it is.


Sent via iPhone

 

[jwbnyc]

Vaping being such a new phenomena, there hasn't been enough time for durable mods to hit up against their wear limits, but I do expect the steel Provi's to outlast the the Ti Provis.

Ti has that ooh aah factor, and it is strong for its weight, but ultimately will it last longer? I personally don't think so. One good reason to keep your Provi lubed up is to protect those threads. That's a big wear point.

The chips are another story.

 

[tearose50]

It might be useful to review some of the early P3 thread for more info. It seems the company addressed the smallest of issues and potential issues that could arrive with the basic design. The P3 connector being a big change, and not just for style. I recall that there were a few other points mentioned.

I see that the biggest problem mods in general have had have been with the connector moving and insulator wearing out, if, of course, the "chip" or button doesn't wear out or break first. First rule has always been to not overtighten the connection---to keep that connector pin in place.

Though I've never heard of a ProVi shorting out due to insulator, it can "sink" a hair or even have been installed micro amounts differently.

There was recently some discussion in the Kabuki thread where @zen mentioned the "toppers" breaking off---and, of course, it was the topper that broke as it was the weakest metal. Would be interesting to see if he's tested a steel Zen topper with 510 and Provi--trying to break the connection!

Yes, Lube is a good thing. But only a condensation drop of liquid on occasion lubes the connector threads.

 

[Zen~]

There was recently some discussion in the Kabuki thread where @zen mentioned the "toppers" breaking off---and, of course, it was the topper that broke as it was the weakest metal. Would be interesting to see if he's tested a steel Zen topper with 510 and Provi--trying to break the connection!

Breaking stuff is kinda what we do at the shop... if we can break it, we try to improve upon it... and if we can't make it stop breaking, we try to make it break less frequently by making it as tough as we can.

So... I drop stuff... great distances... and kick it... and try to simulate the "pocket bend"... and falling out the window of a car... or off a roof... onto black-top... or concrete... or cast Iron...

The 510 connector is easy to break, and hard to prevent... there's a lot of leverage there and a small diameter... the ZAP atty is kinda hard to break... that built in "skirt" helps prevent the leverage from snapping the inner part... BUT it can still break.

Ya know what has NEVER broken in a test... even on purpose? A P3 connector... and a Z2 connector. It will rip the press fit connector right off the tube before it busts the threaded connection. BUT, The P3 Nautilus tank will rip apart the tank near the airflow ring. With a P3 Kabuki, you'll break the glass, but the threads will remain intact. The Z2 version is full-blown over kill.

In tests, I've broken hundreds of 510 connectors from pretty much every manufacturer out there. The P3 is absolutely, 100% superior to the 510. I'll give up universal fit for reliability any day of the week.

 

[coldgin96]

I read where the buttons on a ProVari are rated for 5 million presses.

In preparing for vapocalypse, I count on a ProVari lasting 10 years. Some will, some won't. Some will last longer, perhaps forever. In preparing for said vapocalypse, I am erring on the side of caution and preparing to live to 95. I will be 49 in November. I have 2 V2's and a P3. I plan on buying a Ti Stealth P3 when warranty on this one runs out and there is a sale. Warranty runs out 16June. All that and the fact I am sure I will buy upgraded versions when released, I and Jackie should be good. She has a V2 Mini and P3.

 

[coldgin96]

Breaking stuff is kinda what we do at the shop... if we can break it, we try to improve upon it... and if we can't make it stop breaking, we try to make it break less frequently by making it as tough as we can.

So... I drop stuff... great distances... and kick it... and try to simulate the "pocket bend"... and falling out the window of a car... or off a roof... onto black-top... or concrete... or cast Iron...

The 510 connector is easy to break, and hard to prevent... there's a lot of leverage there and a small diameter... the ZAP atty is kinda hard to break... that built in "skirt" helps prevent the leverage from snapping the inner part... BUT it can still break.

Ya know what has NEVER broken in a test... even on purpose? A P3 connector... and a Z2 connector. It will rip the press fit connector right off the tube before it busts the threaded connection. BUT, The P3 Nautilus tank will rip apart the tank near the airflow ring. With a P3 Kabuki, you'll break the glass, but the threads will remain intact. The Z2 version is full-blown over kill.

In tests, I've broken hundreds of 510 connectors from pretty much every manufacturer out there. The P3 is absolutely, 100% superior to the 510. I'll give up universal fit for reliability any day of the week.

Excellent info (it matters)! Thanks Zen! You are a valuable resource!

This is why I have no problem with the fact all 3 of my Kabuki's have the P3 threading and Jackie's K4 does too! I will make sure to show her your comment tomorrow!

EDIT: Actually, I'm going to copy/paste it in a email to her, thus not having to worry about counting on my Percocet laced memory!

 

[Baditude]

Read the links to old ECF threads on how durable a Provari is:

Why Provari?

I have three Provari 2.5 and a Provari P3 in my collection. Most were used on a daily basis. The oldest is over 3 years old and still works like new.

 

[dhaiken]

I'm so old, most clones may outlast me.
But I have 6 Provaris just in case I'm wrong!

 

[AstroTurf]

I'm so old, most clones may outlast me.
But I have 6 Provaris just in case I'm wrong!

Heck D...

If technology keeps going the way it is...

Your Clones may very well be using your ProVaris.

 

[The Ocelot]

I read where the buttons on a ProVari are rated for 5 million presses.

In preparing for vapocalypse, I count...

My brain stopped when I read "count." I thought you were going to say you were counting every button press. My moment of amazement passed quickly when I started reading again. lol!