Hi, so I have a ipv8, with a BMI goldie RDA. I plan on buying premade coils, but I'm not sure what sort of sub ohm coils to use. I have been vaping out of a tank (smok tfv4), and it says that it uses 0.15 ohm. I also have 2 3200MAH 3.7v 40a batteries. I did my research on sub ohm but still cannot understand as much. Would like professional help asap!
What sub ohm coils would be the best?
- Thread starter spicykimchi
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Your friends are wrong. There are no 40A 18650 batteries manufactured. Imren likes to overrate their batteries, which are just rewraps of generic batteries or B stock rejected by the primary manufacturers such as Samsung, LG, and Sony. @Bonskibon gave you excellent advice. Use that chart to choose a decent battery and toss that Imren. Buy them from a trusted vendor so you don't buy a counterfeit. There are several sites on the bottom of that chart as well.
Yeah I just read one of the reviews on this certain battery. Looks like I was wrong! I'll plan on buying new batteries as well. But in other words, I'm not sure also about what types of coils to use with the mod I have. Can you help me with that as well?
Well, on a regulated mod, the batteries really don't care about the resistance of the coil, all they care about is the power that is being generated from the batteries through the circuitry of the mod.
In a regulated mod, it helps to look at the batteries as a container that provides current. What that current will be depends on the voltage level of the batteries and the power requirements of the mod.
Without going into any of the calculations (and not knowing the operating envelope of the IPV8) all I can say is that if you are planning to max out the mod, go with the absolute best rated (current-wise) batteries you can. In any mod that pushes that kind of wattage, I wouldn't even think about putting a 15 or 20 amp rated battery in it.
That being said, if it were me, I would be looking at a coil resistance that would allow the mod to perform in the range that I like vaping, power wise. Do you want to push the max from the mod? Then take a look at where it can actually do it. Many "XXX" watt mods can only do that kind of wattage in a certain resistance range. For example, if you look at the fine print, it'll also tell you the max current, minimum resistance, and max voltage output of the mod. You can use those values to kind of narrow down what sort of coil that you want.
Lastly, though, I'll say that you should experiment with a few different coils. You may find your sweet spot is 50 watts on a 1.0 ohm coil, 95 watts on a .5 ohm coil, or 135 watts on a .25 ohm coil. It's hard to give you an actual value because only you will know what you like, and you're only going to know that by trying a few different options.
1) those batteries are rewrapped crap... return them if possible and get legit brands (as per the Mooch picture above).. I wouldn't use them except in my flashlights.
2) for coils, it depends if you're talking about making some or buying them pre-made.
With a regulated mod, just about anything from 0.2omh and higher (1.5ohm more or less) is a good safe range.
As you're using a dual coil deck, be aware that the coils need to be identical, and that the resistance is split between them (so 2 coils of 0.8ohm each = a total of 0.4ohm)
2) for coils, it depends if you're talking about making some or buying them pre-made.
With a regulated mod, just about anything from 0.2omh and higher (1.5ohm more or less) is a good safe range.
As you're using a dual coil deck, be aware that the coils need to be identical, and that the resistance is split between them (so 2 coils of 0.8ohm each = a total of 0.4ohm)
Plain and simple, at least here in the US there are only 4 Manufacturers that actually make batteries, those are Sony, Samsung, LG, and Sanyo/Panasonic. These Big 4, test batteries and grade them, A Bin, B Bin, C Bin, with A Bin making the grade with these companies to sell under there own name, the B and C Bins that did not pass muster with the Big 4 are sold off to "Re-Branded" "Re-Sellers", which, IMRen is one of these second hand "Re-Sellers". Do you really wish to put your safety and faith in a battery that didn't pass muster in the first place????
Secondly, 3200mah at 40amp discharge is bling bling specs to make you think you are getting your money's worth, highest mah with a Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) of at least 20amps is the Samsung 30Q, that 40amp discharge on that IMRen green is the Short Pulse Discharge Rate of the battery which can be double the CDR of the battery, but they do not tell you the length of that pulse discharge nor duration of rest between said high current pulses, which makes those specs dangerous. That pulse could be for 1/2 second every 10 seconds rest, or 2 seconds every 30 seconds rest. So, being a good scout and directing your uninformed friends to the data you've collected would be good mojo and karma. In the real world, you are ultimately responsible for your own safety and course in life, playing follow the leader of just because "Jonny I Wanna Look Kewl" is doing one thing, does not mean you need to follow Jonny blindly without researching the safety of what he is doing first, high end vaping is not a good and safe game of the blind leading the blind, or you could get hurt.
As has been stated, with a regulated mod, the only 2 instances Ohms are pertinent, are 1) the mod reading the coil to see if the resistance is in its operating range (generally on average that is a range of 0.1 to 3.0ohms), and 2) allow the control board to calculate how many volts are needed to be supplied to match the set watts, after that, its the Watts not the Ohms that matter with a regulated mod. 0.2 to 0.3ohms are generally the most efficient and you get the most out of them where the mod can achieve accuracy of what watts are set, remember with a Ohm rating of a single coil, the moment you start inserting multiples of the same said rated coil into a RDA/RBA/RTA/RDTA, resistance is divided by that many coils:
1.0ohm dual coil (1 divided by 2 = 0.5ohm final rating)
1.0ohm triple coil (1 divided by 3 = 0.33ohm final rating)
1.0ohm quad coil (1 divided by 4 = 0.25ohm final rating)
Now to figure what your CDR requirements are, we use a formula of "Ohm's Law" using the Watts you are using:
Variables
Watts = the set watts you run or plan to run at
Voltage = Lowest level of charge on a battery before shutdown of the mod, generally this is 3.2v lowest on average, and most multi-battery mods are series battery setups we multiply this by X number of batteries (dual battery 3.2v x 2 = 6.4, 3 battery = 9.6v)
Mod Chipset Efficiency = the control boards take power to function, which takes an overhead to operate properly, most control boards this efficiency rating is about 10% efficiency loss, so to get a final figure you divide your last sum by 90% or 0.9
(Set Watts/Lowest Voltage)/90%=Your maximum amps the batteries must supply
100watts/6.4v=15.625/0.9=17.36111111 Maximum amps needed
The Alien 220watt that is all the craze atm as another example at max output setting
220watts/6.4v=34.375/0.9=38.1944444amps needed
Sad truth of vaping, there is math involved here, don't need much but a good calculator and knowing the formulas needed, which most smart phones have a calculator to do it adequately.
Pre-made coils, look for coils at least 0.25 to 0.5ohm rated per single coil, any lower you risk danger to an extent.
Correct calculation, but it's watts law, not ohms law.
The Alien will discharge the batteries down to 2.8-2.9v so that needs to be taken into account.
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