Yeah you gotta love those stall HP ratings. That is HP a fraction of a second before major fireworks and damage.
Why do dual 18650 mods keep advertising as 200 watt devices?
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<disclaimer>I'm not attacking anyone's vaping preference here, I'm genuinely interested.</disclaimer>
Does anyone here vape north of 100 watts on a regular basis, and if so using what set up?
I like a hot intense vape, and if it's not belting out a significant amount of vapor I'm not happy. The most extreme setup I've run was fused 26/32 dual Claptons at 140 watts with unflavored 0% nic juice, airflow on a Velocity WIDE open. This was very intense and fun for a couple of hits, but vaping like this on a regular basis just seems impractical.
Does anyone here vape north of 100 watts on a regular basis, and if so using what set up?
I like a hot intense vape, and if it's not belting out a significant amount of vapor I'm not happy. The most extreme setup I've run was fused 26/32 dual Claptons at 140 watts with unflavored 0% nic juice, airflow on a Velocity WIDE open. This was very intense and fun for a couple of hits, but vaping like this on a regular basis just seems impractical.
Not necessarily arguing your point, but the Thrust SSC isn't technically a supersonic vehicle, outside a very small envelope of required operating environment.
I don't understand what you mean by "pulses", can you please elaborate?
first off my normal vaping range is about 30-40 watts but if batts are capable of 35+ amp bursts and max you will be seeing and the very end of the discharge is about 32 amps what is so unsafe?with fresh batts you are pulling roughly 24 amps I am not seeing the big safety issue
In all fairness here, every single one of us owns a car that was sold with a horsepower rating that is only truthful if the engine is removed from the car, disconnected from the transmission, run without any accessories such as power steering pump or air conditioner, in a 50RPM or so range near the top of it's limit. Generally speaking the actual maximum horsepower your car is able to put to the ground in your car is only about 80% of what is advertised.
If you put a 35 amp Efest in there which is actually about a 15 AMP CDR battery. Depending on which one they re-wrapped...
there are only a VERY few actual 30 amp 18650 batteries.
There are two types of discharge rates that may be listed on a battery's spec sheet. The continuous discharge rate (CDR - safest) and the pulse discharge rate (PDR - dangerous).
As vapers, we emphasize on the CDR as this is the specification that the manufacturer rated the battery to discharge the entire charge of the battery without going into thermal runaway and destroying itself. The CDR is the industry standard for determinining the battery's capability to provide electrical current safely. One can easily compare one model or brand to another based upon this specification.
Pulse discharge ratings have no set standard for how long the "pulse" should be. Every manufacturer's definition is different. For one company it may be 0.5 seconds, for another it may be 2 seconds. Choosing a battery solely on it pulse rating makes comparing different models and brands impossible because of the way different companies set up their pulse rating.
So what's dangerous about using the pulse discharge rate? It leaves no margin of safety in case you have a hard short.
For example, not long ago I was vaping on my rebuildale dripper at 0.6 ohm. Suddenly my vape was extremely harsh. I knew my wick was wet so it wasn't a dry hit. I removed the dripper from my mech and checked the resistance on my ohm reader. I was surprised it read 0.1 ohm (a resistance drop of 0.5 ohm).
I checked the post screws and one of them was loose. I retightened it and rechecked the ohm reading. It was 0.6 ohm again. Had I relied on a pulse rating and built a 0.3 or 0.4 ohm coil, that loose screw would have caused the resistance to fall to 0.0 ohm, which is a hard short. I would have blown up the battery or the mod.
Computations From An Ohm's Law Calculator:
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
Nope.
Just don't see a need for it FOR ME.
Though, I do have a series mech that I'm planning on enjoying for a long time coming.
Tapatyped
I respect your knowledge and experience but really the CDR is completely useless for vapers we never use them under those conditions the parameters dont apply even a little and if there is a hard short if you have a 50amp battery you are in trouble.
You cant keep relying on the CDR to be safe when the conditions that you use the battery never meet the CDR requirements
You cant keep relying on the CDR to be safe when the conditions that you use the battery never meet the CDR requirements
AU contrare the pulse rating is pretty much useless but the CDR rating indicates how heavy duty the battery is.
And the higher the CDR the less voltage drop under load you will get.
Does not apply specifically to a Regulated mod. Hard Short would only happen before the circuit boards.
Hard/dead short at the 510/atty would trip safety protocol and stop current flow.
Just saying.
There is little to no margin of safety with any battery in a <Hard Short> Regardless of Coil resistance value.
Perhaps - Mechanical with stuck switch?
- not on topic.(regulated high wattage)
those amp draw and ohm comparisons dont actually apply much to 200 w regulated mods which is what we are discussing
the CDR only means anything under the circumstances which it was tested if you pulse the batts 100% of the time those specs dont ever come into play in the real world.......
A watt used in the coil is a watt drawn from the battery. Plus in a regulated mod the circuitry is not 100% efficient so a 200 watt regulated mod might require 210 watts from the battery.
so without all the BS if a battery is rated 20cdr and 35 burst what is so unsafe about pulling 23 amps
Depends
Does the person doing it have the first clue?
Because, the answer is wildly different and highly dependent on that question.
Especially here where so many who don't think they do because they glanced over a blog once.
Tapatyped
I have been flying rc helis for years I am charging 2 6 s 3000 mah lipos that are 65c that means they are capable of 200 amp bursts.......no explosions here
Im sorry I have to laugh,you guys pick and choose what specs you want to follow.You steadfastly swear by the CDR as the be all end all of battery rating and it is a set example under certain conditions,most of which vapers do not use them under........but pulse rating you guys wont even acknowledge.........thats fine to each his own,do your thing.But I have yet to see any good reasons why pulling less than 32 amps froma batt rated for 35 is being unsafe, so far, mostly whats been posted doesnt even apply
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