Wow started vaping 100 watts now my 30qs and vtc 5s don't even last a full day
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A 0.8 ohm Alien in a dual coil arrangement like the Reload (0.4 ohm with both) will take and awful lot more current/wattage to heat up than say dual 0.8 ohm simple round wire. The more metal mass, the more power you need to get it to temperature. I'm still not sure why you feel you have to build to a 50 to 75W range. If a build gave you a great vape at 30W would you toss it as it's out of your wattage preference?
Perhaps rethink your coil selection.
Massive coils need massive power which in turn needs lots of batteries in a box the size of a house brick.
Large high mass coils may arguably produce a lot of vapor, but are inefficient and impractical. Even if you can blast it with enough wattage, the time it takes to ramp up/down means a delay in startup and a prolonged period where the coil is cooking your wicks/juice even after you release the button.
In my experience simple round wire builds using a relatively thin wire provide the best balance of surface area and total coil mass.
Try this.
Dual coil 26G Kanthal, 2.5 mm internal diameter x 11 wraps (0.67 ohms)
Comes alive around 65 watts, but wicking and airflow allowing is good for 100+ watts, with a very fast ramp up/down.
Massive coils need massive power which in turn needs lots of batteries in a box the size of a house brick.
Large high mass coils may arguably produce a lot of vapor, but are inefficient and impractical. Even if you can blast it with enough wattage, the time it takes to ramp up/down means a delay in startup and a prolonged period where the coil is cooking your wicks/juice even after you release the button.
In my experience simple round wire builds using a relatively thin wire provide the best balance of surface area and total coil mass.
Try this.
Dual coil 26G Kanthal, 2.5 mm internal diameter x 11 wraps (0.67 ohms)
Comes alive around 65 watts, but wicking and airflow allowing is good for 100+ watts, with a very fast ramp up/down.
What type of resistance drop in coil would you typically vape at around 30--40 watts? If it's somewhere in the 0.5--0.8 range, then shoot for that. You can use steam engine and input your wire selection to determine what you need in terms of wraps (you need to include coil diameter and the legs of the coil) and how many to reach a target ohms. It's really useful actually, for a lot of different things, but here you go: Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
I do think starting with simple wire builds gives you a sense of how to build kind of more easily, before you get into dual coils and whatever other fancy builds (nothing wrong with these, but I find it easier to start with a single coil, and use steam engine if you are shooting for a target resistance.)
Good luck!
Anna
I do think starting with simple wire builds gives you a sense of how to build kind of more easily, before you get into dual coils and whatever other fancy builds (nothing wrong with these, but I find it easier to start with a single coil, and use steam engine if you are shooting for a target resistance.)
Good luck!
Anna
All I ever used are fused Claptons 0.4 in single coil mode
I tried steam engine and vape tool do not understand them at all
Have no desire to wrap my own till I find the premade I enjoy the most
I can find 0.4 fused Clapton and few other coils
Always figured ohms are what determines wattage
The coil side of things are most confusing and tbh don't want to learn my head hurts trying thus why I stick to premade
I tried a frame staple in single coil and it was horrid
The dual framed staple isn't a bad vape but the battery life juice comspumtion sucks
Sure I can vape the framed now at 65 but there's no flavor at all don't really taste much till 80
I tried steam engine and vape tool do not understand them at all
Have no desire to wrap my own till I find the premade I enjoy the most
I can find 0.4 fused Clapton and few other coils
Always figured ohms are what determines wattage
The coil side of things are most confusing and tbh don't want to learn my head hurts trying thus why I stick to premade
I tried a frame staple in single coil and it was horrid
The dual framed staple isn't a bad vape but the battery life juice comspumtion sucks
Sure I can vape the framed now at 65 but there's no flavor at all don't really taste much till 80
It's actually easy to figure out if you need more batteries.
Just take the depleted voltage of the batteries. Most mods shut down between 3.2-2.9 volts. Then take your target wattage, and do the math.
50w takes 15.6a @ 3.2v = 1 battery
100w takes 31.2a @ 3.2v = 2 batteries.
To figure ramp up time of a coil, the steam engine app works really well, but it's been well covered here that the more wire you put in there the longer it takes (or more wattage it takes) to get the coil up to vaping temp.
The reason that I can vape @ ~7w is because I use a very thin wire (30g) single coil @ 1.8 ohms.
As for getting flavor, just remember that there are NO taste buds in your lungs.
add:
I adjust to get the temp & throat hit I want on the inhale, and the flavor intensity I want on the exhale. AND, I normally go through 3-4 mills of juice/day.
Just take the depleted voltage of the batteries. Most mods shut down between 3.2-2.9 volts. Then take your target wattage, and do the math.
50w takes 15.6a @ 3.2v = 1 battery
100w takes 31.2a @ 3.2v = 2 batteries.
To figure ramp up time of a coil, the steam engine app works really well, but it's been well covered here that the more wire you put in there the longer it takes (or more wattage it takes) to get the coil up to vaping temp.
The reason that I can vape @ ~7w is because I use a very thin wire (30g) single coil @ 1.8 ohms.
As for getting flavor, just remember that there are NO taste buds in your lungs.
add:
I adjust to get the temp & throat hit I want on the inhale, and the flavor intensity I want on the exhale. AND, I normally go through 3-4 mills of juice/day.
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I tried learning vape tool and steam engine did not get it at all
I just buy premade fused Claptons seems to work out best for me
Going to pick up 2 x 0.4 ohm fused Claptons which i know will read out at .2 ish wish me luck
I just buy premade fused Claptons seems to work out best for me
Going to pick up 2 x 0.4 ohm fused Claptons which i know will read out at .2 ish wish me luck
Good luck! But, what is it you don't understand about steam-engine? I'm sure we can help you sort it out.... 
If I can understand that sucker, I'm fairly certain you'll be able to. It's just a matter of inputting the right values, and if you don't know what all of them are, I'm sure some short explanations can help you.
For example, you start by selecting your wire. (e.g. Kanthal, then whatever gauge you are using)Then you select the diameter (this is the mm size of whatever you are wrapping on). Coil legs are how far it takes for the ends of the coil to attach to the posts of the deck (both legs added together) if you use a microcoil those legs will be longer, if you use a spaced coil, they will likely be shorter. Once you have all those values entered, steam-engine will tell you how many wraps (basically, how much wire you need to get to the target resistance) you will need. It's okay to be slightly off, but the wraps give you the target to shoot for. You can try playing around with it, but you mainly need wire type, gauge of wire, diameter of the coil (e.g. 2.5 mm or whatever you wrap on) length of legs (you can guestimate at tad here) and target resistance, and you'll get number of wraps to make. Spaced coils use slightly more wire so I usually just decrease the coil wrap number about 1.5 wraps. I've been pretty successful at getting close to my target resistance that way....
To me, wicking and also getting the coil seated correctly is far more difficult, but the above ^^^ is quite simple. I think you could probably google a tutorial or two in how to use it if your remain confused....
Anna
If I can understand that sucker, I'm fairly certain you'll be able to. It's just a matter of inputting the right values, and if you don't know what all of them are, I'm sure some short explanations can help you. For example, you start by selecting your wire. (e.g. Kanthal, then whatever gauge you are using)Then you select the diameter (this is the mm size of whatever you are wrapping on). Coil legs are how far it takes for the ends of the coil to attach to the posts of the deck (both legs added together) if you use a microcoil those legs will be longer, if you use a spaced coil, they will likely be shorter. Once you have all those values entered, steam-engine will tell you how many wraps (basically, how much wire you need to get to the target resistance) you will need. It's okay to be slightly off, but the wraps give you the target to shoot for. You can try playing around with it, but you mainly need wire type, gauge of wire, diameter of the coil (e.g. 2.5 mm or whatever you wrap on) length of legs (you can guestimate at tad here) and target resistance, and you'll get number of wraps to make. Spaced coils use slightly more wire so I usually just decrease the coil wrap number about 1.5 wraps. I've been pretty successful at getting close to my target resistance that way....
To me, wicking and also getting the coil seated correctly is far more difficult, but the above ^^^ is quite simple. I think you could probably google a tutorial or two in how to use it if your remain confused....
Anna
Lol all that sounds like to much work I don't understand it at all everything you just said caused bleeding
The fused clapton is a well known build, there are lots of guys here that can help you set it up.
But, chasing more wattage is a never ending deal, and you can build to make any wattage do the same thing. I vape @ 7 watts because it's the easiest, but I can get the exact same temp, throat hit & flavor @ 15w or 30w if I want. And you can do the same @100w, 200w or 300w. The only things that change are the amount of air you need to draw in & the liquid amount that is used.
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How about this one
Coil Toy - Online calculator for e-cigarette resistance coil building
Coil Toy - Online calculator for e-cigarette resistance coil building
Too much effort in massive coils and wattage. It isn't necessary at all. I get enough vapor to fog up a room quickly and lots of flavor out of a single 26 awg .6 ohm ss coil running at around 15 watts.
If you are looking for massive clouds of vapor just for the vapor...You are unlikely to get much flavor out of it anyway.
If you are looking for massive clouds of vapor just for the vapor...You are unlikely to get much flavor out of it anyway.
I'll say it again, get a Smok GX2/4. Put it in quad 18650 configuration and eliminate the battery life and safe wattage variables. Then play with your coils to your heart's content. You will be good to go for low wattage builds (dual battery mode), high wattage builds (quad battery mode), or both (change as needed/wanted). What's not to like?
I'm sorry to make your head bleed, LOL.
These are the values you need (and ALL you need) to input into steam engine.
WHAT kind and gauge of wire (you can figure this out by looking at your spool of wire, it's very simple). It's a drop down menu, so you just need to find your wire.
I'm imagining you have a tool or a screwdriver or whatever to wrap your coils, right? If you have a coil jig, the diameter will be printed ON it, if it's a screwdriver, just measure the inner diameter of the coil (basically, the width of the screwdriver that you are wrapping your coil around, so you can just measure that with a ruler that is in mm or a tape measure or whatever. I micro(contact) coil means the coils will be touching each other. You will have a "leg" on each side that you will attach to the build deck. Measure the build deck to the screws, and "estimate" about how much space your coil will take up (a few mm probably) then subtract that from the length to the posts. This will be the length of your coil LEGS.
IF you input all that in, steam engine will tell you how many times you need to wrap your coil around whatever you are using.
If you are using dual coils and want to, then you just need to DOUBLE the resistance you are going for, since two coils together (oddly) is going to be half the resistance, not double, which is what I would think would be happening, but no, it does not do that.
So, with one coil, it's just very simple. With two, you can decide on your needed resistance and then halve it. I think single coils are easier to start with, as you are using LESS wire mass and will need less watts to heat it up. This is the reason why MORE watts are usually required for lower resistance coils, they need more "watts" to heat them up and produce vapor, due to more coil mass.....
Even if you are going to be buying coils and installing them, knowing this stuff is helpful and will help you understand why you are needing more wattage, versus less wattage. Why not bring your deck to the vape shop and see if there is someone there who can help you with a SINGLE coil? (If you have one near you). If not, you can still purchase higher resistance coils, most likely. It's funny, this stuff is WAAAYYYY easier for me than actual coil installation and wicking, it's really not brain hurt-y stuff (for me). I might rather have the opposite problem, I'm pretty good at getting to my target coil resistance, but I suck at installation and wicking, LOL.
Anna
These are the values you need (and ALL you need) to input into steam engine.
WHAT kind and gauge of wire (you can figure this out by looking at your spool of wire, it's very simple). It's a drop down menu, so you just need to find your wire.
I'm imagining you have a tool or a screwdriver or whatever to wrap your coils, right? If you have a coil jig, the diameter will be printed ON it, if it's a screwdriver, just measure the inner diameter of the coil (basically, the width of the screwdriver that you are wrapping your coil around, so you can just measure that with a ruler that is in mm or a tape measure or whatever. I micro(contact) coil means the coils will be touching each other. You will have a "leg" on each side that you will attach to the build deck. Measure the build deck to the screws, and "estimate" about how much space your coil will take up (a few mm probably) then subtract that from the length to the posts. This will be the length of your coil LEGS.
IF you input all that in, steam engine will tell you how many times you need to wrap your coil around whatever you are using.
If you are using dual coils and want to, then you just need to DOUBLE the resistance you are going for, since two coils together (oddly) is going to be half the resistance, not double, which is what I would think would be happening, but no, it does not do that.
So, with one coil, it's just very simple. With two, you can decide on your needed resistance and then halve it. I think single coils are easier to start with, as you are using LESS wire mass and will need less watts to heat it up. This is the reason why MORE watts are usually required for lower resistance coils, they need more "watts" to heat them up and produce vapor, due to more coil mass.....
Even if you are going to be buying coils and installing them, knowing this stuff is helpful and will help you understand why you are needing more wattage, versus less wattage. Why not bring your deck to the vape shop and see if there is someone there who can help you with a SINGLE coil? (If you have one near you). If not, you can still purchase higher resistance coils, most likely. It's funny, this stuff is WAAAYYYY easier for me than actual coil installation and wicking, it's really not brain hurt-y stuff (for me). I might rather have the opposite problem, I'm pretty good at getting to my target coil resistance, but I suck at installation and wicking, LOL.
Anna
Yeah I got a coil master kit
I have tried 28 gauge 3 mm fused Clapton flavor was so bad I went back to the 24 or 26 gauge I had before
I'll have to hunker down and read more but picking a spool to build with material al that to me is to much premades work for me
I have tried 28 gauge 3 mm fused Clapton flavor was so bad I went back to the 24 or 26 gauge I had before
I'll have to hunker down and read more but picking a spool to build with material al that to me is to much premades work for me
Well, if you have the kit, I hope you try it at some point, it's not a huge amount of reading material, and it's just a matter of finding/measuring a few simple values.
I'd say do what you feel comfortable with, but you might play around with steam engine at some point and wrap some coils you might not even want to use on the deck, but just to get a sense of what's needed to input into steam engine, and give it a shot. It's really kind of fun to "shoot" for a target resistance and see how close you get. I got 0.02 close with one coil I was SO happy with, then trying to install it just killed it. LOL. I'm glad installing and wicking is working for you and some folks just plain prefer premade wires.
Anna
I'd say do what you feel comfortable with, but you might play around with steam engine at some point and wrap some coils you might not even want to use on the deck, but just to get a sense of what's needed to input into steam engine, and give it a shot. It's really kind of fun to "shoot" for a target resistance and see how close you get. I got 0.02 close with one coil I was SO happy with, then trying to install it just killed it. LOL. I'm glad installing and wicking is working for you and some folks just plain prefer premade wires.
Anna
The gauge of the wire WAS NOT the cause of the bad flavor!!!!!!!
I have heard some bad things (here on ECF) about the Smok GX2/4. So for that reason I wouldn't suggest it for someone who is already frustrated.
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