YOUDE nailed it! Coil winding jig Version 3
- Thread starter whosrandy
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Well you are quite mistaken and no you are not. It actually is, even as you suggest otherwise. And quite competent members have confirmed most of the principles I discuss throughout ECF. I've done thousands of hours of research on vaping even before quitting two years ago. And read through more published science than it would appear you might be comfortable with if you thought the advanced tension thread was complex. Sorry to point out this contradiction as regards your own acumen.
A contact coil geometrically presents the most optimal ratio of surface area to thermal output for a wind. In platforms and configurations typically limited to just a few millimeters size matters. Unfortunately contacting wires are shorts. Yet super_X_drifter's introduction was right on point about compact contact coils improving wind performance. How is vaping to make any improvements against a tide of running interference and personal preferences? It can't, if most are dissuaded from trying.
Thanks for the opportunity to reply.
Good luck.
I'm afraid I don't see an answer for anything here B. No one is taking about "bonding" wire or anything remotely approaching Kanthal's melting point. Quite the opposite even as torching can come a lot closer.
You are incorrect about there not being a difference (formed or strained) unless you doubt hundreds perhaps thousands on this forum and indirectly including my trainees today who detect the increase in phase transition efficiency of a t.m.c. That's your right and I respect that. I was a skeptic too. But to say wire attributes are the same for a stressed (strained, elongated) or formed wire is frankly, ill informed.
Tensioned coils behave like springs with a type of shape memory. A formed coil recalls the shape it was wound and unless considerable heat energy is applied to over-ride that tend to respond quite well to heat expansion. Formed winds tend to resume their originally wound state no matter how well torched. Tensioned wound coils maintain excellent structural integrity, run cooler and so are less susceptible to the stresses of thermal expansion.
Why would there be a difference in resistance? Yes, you're right. Wire should return its rated resistance when metered, period. But resistance (heat) rises when you have a crossed or incorrectly grounded (short) wire. That's exactly what happens in a contact coil with inadequate, incomplete or inconsistent oxidation. And as greater power is applied the breakdown threshold for the thin alumina layer may be overcome. Contact coils exhibit the thermal characteristics of a short until a sufficiently adequate alumina layer is developed then you would be right, resistance is stabilized conforming to the wires theoretical resistance. Precisely the objective of tension winding.
So the goal of a t.m.c. as I noted in a separate reply is an optimal insulation layer so that you do see actual wire resistance. That is best achieved by arriving at closest turn-to-turn proximity in practical terms to close gaps that present in winds. This provides a best stab at uniform oxidation with less pulsing and at lower voltage levels. Then you can reap the potential of the close contact geometry. That was my discovery (which negates the need for torched heat forming) and a more benign management of wire.
I would add that with my introduction super_X_drifter adopted this contact annealing/oxidizing approach and influenced perhaps hundreds of thousands of vapers around the world to put down their torches through his excellent videos. In my estimation a good thing as most do not know how to properly prepare coils torching without stressing the wire or actually inhibiting a stable alumina deposition. I believe torching compromises one of the best attributes in Kanthal's insulation potential, the very stable resistance you're talking about.
Thanks for the opportunity to comment.
Good luck B. Vape on.
Last edited:
Exactly, strain is elongation. That's what provides the rigidity part that torching accomplishes. But it's pulse annealing that develops the alumina layer, the objective of the wind in a contact coil. And you must have that, compression are strain, to put the contact together. Or you'll have temp differences.
Problem rule is there are two rather lengthy threads on the process. The wind itself is easy to explain in a short page but rebuilding and what it entails in function and theory are not exactly. Neither is driving a car. If most had to put one together without the science mechanics, they wouldn't go far. All I'm saying is good wire insulation completes the circuit in a contact coil. It's a more stable result and takes no more work than alternatives. How much depends into how much precision you want to see. But a t.m.c. in and of itself is precise thanks to mother nature and can be easily repeated. That's a huge+ for new vapers.
Some have difficulty with the mechanics. Don't know why. It's a small percentage of the many, many I've worked with and surveyed but it happens. Happened to me but I recovered. For most it's a handful of attempts at most. Oxidation is more of a skill and talent one develops with experience. More akin to learning not to burn our eggs and not so easily picked up by all of us. But as you noted if overlooked there's no point in trying to make a contact coil by any method because it is essentially a short if not insulated and you'll see little if no improvement unless you like a very hot diffuse vape. Many do and think that's what a tensioned micro is. To each his own there. I'm eager to see folks get to a great vape quickly and know that can happen with a t.m.c.
I've offered to personally help on this forum all those seriously wanting to get through the process. Hey, all I can do. More often issues are with the mechanics of rebuilding than the wind itself. No wind no matter how good can overcome bad symmetry. Every coil is strained. Sometimes well, sometimes no so good.
Good luck all.
Yeah libby I'm a dyed in the wool zealot for the great vape. CYA there!
My motto: A million man vapathon on the FDA's front lawn. Right now!
Good luck.
I used this gadget for over a year and did the trick. If you get this youde jig v3, you'll never look back. Makes it insanely easy to wrap and then mount your coil.I'm a coil building noob, just ordered this simple little jig for $5. Should do the trick hopefully to get me started.
I used to fiddle and tinker for hours, ensuring everything fires up perfect. With all my tanks and rdas, this has cut back on that time exponentially. You can get one shipped for roughly $11.
If you want to stay on the hand wrap route like I did for well over a year, you can get a few of those jigs here:
$1.93 Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers - stainless steel / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm sections at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
For $1.93 shipped each, even cheaper if you buy more.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I'll keep it in mind for sure if I get really into building. I'm pretty simple right now but who knows. A few weeks ago I thought I'd never use my rbas lol.
Well--it matters to me.
Only dropped in to support some of your statements K. Kinda troublesome to me to see the myth propagated that there's no difference between coils in performance, between forming and strain. There are and most peeps proficient in both have frequently confirmed this throughout the forum. Importance and benefits of insulating Kanthal has been often validated here too by posters with far better qualifications than me. The focus of my contributions has been to promote strain as the most direct way to achieve it. Forming I can do with a dollar store screwdriver and finger pressure.
There's a heck of lot of marketing goin' on here and everybody's got a widget. Respect the right of all to make a buck; yet can't refrain from mentioning that many of these devices won't yield the necessary proximity for effective wire oxidation without torching. It's needless complexity for a new vaper and something I can't recommend for other reasons too many to post here.
Now for those building advanced winds like twisted and other such multi wire which is the rage everywhere these days, use whatever. You're not likely or easily going to optimally oxidize these or predictably anticipate or control final resistance. I make 'em and understand exactly why and how I do. And yes, they can benefit from balanced tension. I'd suggest that we try and remember that most of us are happy with a Kay at 1.2Ω and a reliable vape. It's a large community and mostly we just want to get to it and consistently. So different strokes for different folks. Not suggesting there's one vape for all. But there is one very effective solution for oxidation and that's what I'm attesting to, particularly for those new to rebuilding.
Regarding my remarks and this thread, they're totally on point about these accessories. There are distinctions with respect to other methods, devices and outcomes and this is the rebuttal.
Offer still stands K for that personalized tutorial whenever you're up to it.
Good luck all.
FYI I'm not affiliated with Youde in any way. I work for an insurance company and just love Vaping. Photography id a hobby of mine and saw very little info on this product at the time of purchase.Only dropped in to support some of your statements K. Kinda troublesome to me to see the myth propagated that there's no difference between coils in performance, between forming and strain. There are and most peeps proficient in both have frequently confirmed this throughout the forum. Importance and benefits of insulating Kanthal has been often validated here too by posters with far better qualifications than me. The focus of my contributions has been to promote strain as the most direct way to achieve it. Forming I can do with a dollar store screwdriver and finger pressure.
There's a heck of lot of marketing goin' on here and everybody's got a widget. Respect the right of all to make a buck; yet can't refrain from mentioning that many of these devices won't yield the necessary proximity for effective wire oxidation without torching. It's needless complexity for a new vaper and something I can't recommend for other reasons too many to post here.
Now for those building advanced winds like twisted and other such multi wire which is the rage everywhere these days, use whatever. You're not likely or easily going to optimally oxidize these or predictably anticipate or control final resistance. I make 'em and understand exactly why and how I do. And yes, they can benefit from balanced tension. I'd suggest that we try and remember that most of us are happy with a Kay at 1.2Ω and a reliable vape. It's a large community and mostly we just want to get to it and consistently. So different strokes for different folks. Not suggesting there's one vape for all. But there is one very effective solution for oxidation and that's what I'm attesting to, particularly for those new to rebuilding.
Regarding my remarks and this thread, they're totally on point about these accessories. There are distinctions with respect to other methods, devices and outcomes and this is the rebuttal.
Offer still stands K for that personalized tutorial whenever you're up to it.
Good luck all.
Galaxy S5 G900V / OptimalRom R13-1 / ADB Debloat /Nova Prime: Via Tapatalk
I have 2 subtanks on the way. Can't wait. Lemo 2 gave me many issues in TC mode and needed modification to wick properly. Glass shattered as well.Only dropped in to support some of your statements K. Kinda troublesome to me to see the myth propagated that there's no difference between coils in performance, between forming and strain. There are and most peeps proficient in both have frequently confirmed this throughout the forum. Importance and benefits of insulating Kanthal has been often validated here too by posters with far better qualifications than me. The focus of my contributions has been to promote strain as the most direct way to achieve it. Forming I can do with a dollar store screwdriver and finger pressure.
There's a heck of lot of marketing goin' on here and everybody's got a widget. Respect the right of all to make a buck; yet can't refrain from mentioning that many of these devices won't yield the necessary proximity for effective wire oxidation without torching. It's needless complexity for a new vaper and something I can't recommend for other reasons too many to post here.
Now for those building advanced winds like twisted and other such multi wire which is the rage everywhere these days, use whatever. You're not likely or easily going to optimally oxidize these or predictably anticipate or control final resistance. I make 'em and understand exactly why and how I do. And yes, they can benefit from balanced tension. I'd suggest that we try and remember that most of us are happy with a Kay at 1.2Ω and a reliable vape. It's a large community and mostly we just want to get to it and consistently. So different strokes for different folks. Not suggesting there's one vape for all. But there is one very effective solution for oxidation and that's what I'm attesting to, particularly for those new to rebuilding.
Regarding my remarks and this thread, they're totally on point about these accessories. There are distinctions with respect to other methods, devices and outcomes and this is the rebuttal.
Offer still stands K for that personalized tutorial whenever you're up to it.
Good luck all.
Galaxy S5 G900V / OptimalRom R13-1 / ADB Debloat /Nova Prime: Via Tapatalk
I'm sure you'll enjoy the KT sub's. About one of the easiest devices to rebuild I've encountered. It's not particularly designed as a density driver. Rather airy. However, with the right build quality and prudent use of a/f, drip tip and draw it can be kind of amazing in its own right.
Good luck b.
p.s. I'm kind of a fan of Youde. Their inexpensive well thought out designs are a great entry point for the frugal new vaper. The iGo-4 is my test bed coupled with CIA thick-walled caps an outstanding baseline for long term flavor tests.
Good luck b.
p.s. I'm kind of a fan of Youde. Their inexpensive well thought out designs are a great entry point for the frugal new vaper. The iGo-4 is my test bed coupled with CIA thick-walled caps an outstanding baseline for long term flavor tests.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
