I can see your point. Squonk mods probably need TC least of all but I can still see the newbie not quite knowing when to squonk and using it as a tool to get the hang of things as well. As long as its an option and VW mod or bypass is still available I don't really see it making much of a...
I agree that TC isn't "necessary" to get an enjoyable vape. But at the same time I really wasn't comfortable doing DL hits as you don't have the safety of NOT breathing in a dry hit that you can find with MTL. With TC I find that if the vape starts getting dry quickly I can assess the build...
My suggestion would be to get that stuff tested to ensure that it actually is 33mg nicotine. The 100 mg you have as well. How trusted is your source? Otherwise I would stop using it.
No worries man I had a hard time figuring out my dilutions the first time out too. Just wanted to make sure that you weren't vaping that 33 mg straight which was the impression I got from your initial posts. I usually mix into 100 ml bottles just to make it easier on myself and use 100 mg nic...
So you added 2.4 ml of 33.3 mg liquid to 22.6<edit> ml of Non-nic liquid to make a 25 ml end product? Just clarifying, but doing the math on that would roughly equal a 2 to 4 mg nic result. Diluting the 33.3 mg by about a factor of 10. Forgive my sloppy math but this changes things.
^^ This is what I've found is the biggest offender to darkening liquid. More flavor generally just leads to more gunking and darker liquid. Regardless of MTL above ohm builds or subohm builds its the flavors/sweeteners that lead to having to change/cleaning coils more often. I've switched to...
I put an old ego-510 adapter and added an evic beauty ring that just slides over it (held in place by the bottom of my STP) to put my Subtank plus on it. Works fine in TC with SS316.
@Two_Bears I think you missed the point of my post. I have 2 Pico's and a couple of other 18650 mods. Never used the USB to charge for that very reason.. and I'm impatient and like to have batt's on the ready:) I was just relaying that an old Trustfire in working condition should be up to...
I might catch flak for this but I still use my trustfire tr-001. 25r's and HE2's all charge fine. In a baking dish with the lid on and don't leave it unattended. Works fine after 4 years.
Guess I got lucky.
Take shirt collar (tshirt or whatever.. probably not good with dress style shirts).. Bunch it up a little and bite down on it gently and exhale INTO the fabric.. almost nothing escapes. No cloud. 9 times out of 10 absolutely nothing to see.. No problems.
It would appear that one battery is 'weaker' than the other for one reason or another. I would stop using them in a dual configuration and get a new set of batteries to marry.
First question is Does it show reading of the ohms at all while screwing it in? If it show's ohms that jump around before settling at 9.99 with it completely screwed down than pin in the tank is pushing the kbox's in too far. Try removing the coil and pushing in the pin on the toptanks base and...
Batteries in series would double the voltage to the device (cuboid in this case) but amp limit and mah stays the same as a single cell. Batteries in parallel double the amp limit and mah but the voltage to the device would be that of a single battery.
Was digging through all my old vape stuff and found a broken bully rda. Was about to toss it along with some old three hole airflow controller for my protank and thought, "This would be awesome if these two things fit together!" It is, they are. Leave the chimney on and its low wattage...
Basically this is checking to make sure the positive pin is insulated from the rest of the mod. If resistance is showing then there is a pathway for electricity to flow from the pin directly to the mod body itself. A short. Likely problem would be the pp insulator.
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