You should always use your meter at the 510 connector end, that is what your PV will be seeing It also helps to make sure the coil is firmly attached to the posts, a common problem that causes resistance changes.
You don't use 4.2V with a calc like that. You need to determine the actual, vaping volts while under load, then use that number + your measured resistance to determine the AMP/current draw and vaping watts.
For all you subΩ 18350 users the AW IMR18350 seems like a much better choice over...
I'm surprised you're not have some issues with your center post just floating like that, seems that bottom nut should be screwed down against the white insulator.
Equus meters usually get favorable reviews. And FWIW cheap meters are usually quite accurate, you need to spend upwards of $60+ to crack into the next level.
Folks seem to like this one.
Equus 3300 Hands-free Digital Multimeter : Amazon.com : Automotive
At Walmart for a tad more...
If ya wanna build mods get a meter, actually everyone should have one. A $10 one is fine for our uses.
For one, not all NiMHs are created equal.
That's not true, There were a number of posts early in the Puck thread about Joye 510 users only getting about ~3.6 loaded volts with the NiHMs...
There are probably at least a thousand posts about that Panasonic by now.
And FWIW the one-size-fits-all approach is flawed.
Here's one of SuperT's 5A tests with the appropriate analysis...
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