Did you fully prime the wick before hand?
I'd say you lucked out. As soon as I start turning that screw after a fill mine floods. This is with juice control fully closed.
Yeah, and the beauty of the nautilus mini is that it takes the same head as the full size. So down the road if you get a bigger box mod and the full size nautilus you can keep using the same heads.
I have a nautilus mini on an iStick and a silo tank (takes same heads) on my vaporshark.
Mine came with a dead battery as well. I plug it into USB charger for like 10-15 min. After that it would turn on and show empty battery. So I just left it on the charger for like 3 hours and ignored it. It was done charging by then. Works great.
The top cap not having a flat spot is a pretty big problem to have. It doesn't let air escape when you screw it back in. It'll flood it, every single time. I've stopped using mine until I fix it.
One of my favorite parts of the day is my coffee and vape in the morning. I was always worried that would be the hardest thing when I smoked to give up. I worried for nothing.
I think the istick 20W is the only mod these days that uses mean. All the rest use RMS if they do PWM. Ones that have dc-dc converters don't apply. They provide an essentially flat signal.
I
Not to be nitpicky, but evolv uses a 32bit arm based processor. Not the old the 8bit atmegas.
Nonetheless I do think will see dna40 clones with temp protection, step up/down regulation and the whole bit sooner or later.
My cyber Monday rdna finally arrived!
Can anyone with more than one dna40 device comment on ohm readings? The rdna that just came in reads .02 higher than my Hana Modz dna40 mini. The Hana has the old firmware before Celsius was added. The rdna has the newer with the bigger screen.
So far...
Above the plastic plate and below the 510, is there a small screw with a wire on it? On the real hana boxes it's a ground strap and if it gets loose if can throw off readings.
Never seen inside of the clone so not sure if same thing applies.
Some of my juices are glass and have droppers. I hated having to move them to a bottle that's compatible with the kfl. I was excited to see top fill as a new feature.
On mine I will most likely use a table grinder to make a flat spot and retap the threads.
I believe it's crucial to let air escape as you try tighten the top cap. So you don't force eliquid out the bottom.
For me even fully closing the juice control doesn't help. I just flooded the crap out of mine. Gonna have to find a new way to fill it.
To test where you setup burns cotton, just insert a fresh dry wick and fire it. It should hit temp cutoff rather quick and prevent it from burning. You may need to adjust to temp setting or possibly investigate something wrong with your build.
None. That's the only reason it was picked. The resistance fluctuates with heat. They measure the change in resistance and can calculate the temp it's running at.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.