Here is a pic of my family now. Just finished painting the blue one...it was supposed to be blue.grey. Didn't quite turn out that way. :facepalm: In the picture I tried a grey primed body just to see what it might look like. One problem with the blue body is that it rocks on the long axis.
This latest time I sprayed on 2 coats of polyurethane. I can't tell if its still wearing or not. Time will tell.
I've tried brush application of paint and I get brush strokes. Its not the brushes' fault as I've used cheap brushes and more expensive brushes also. I'm pretty sure its the...
Yup, so when I wear the button down to the plastic I would have another top while repainting the first one...and no I don't do ceracote. I've spent enough on paints and sundries so now I have more invested in the painting than I do in the GDNA's.
Just got the email from livewire so I figured that the 4.2 was released on sculpteo....yup ordered 2. 1 large & 1 small. Oh and 2 parts kits from livewire. Unfortunately, I have enough parts for maybe 5 V3.1. And I still have 2 3.1's to paint yet. :facepalm: Now I'm going to have to order...
Hmmm, interesting. I hope their quality has improved. Don't know how it could've much worse. I still have a top cap that has a distinct series of steps on 1 side of the cap. After messing with it for a while I think its finally smooth enough to use.
I find that the sanding is very relaxing, and the painting can be quite rewarding when it comes out right. I'm using rattle cans for the painting and that in and of itself could be part of the problem. And I use the loupe because my vision ain't that great either. I don't need these to be...
You obviously don't know how ..for lack of a better term... skilled I am with paint. I have been painting 3 rings and buttons since Dec. sand, primer, sand, primer, sand, paint...start again at step 1. Yesterday I painted a button gold and it was beautiful...except for the 1 little hair that...
Just thought I'd upload a pic of mine and one in progress. Its really waiting for paint but I'm still trying to get my head around the paint dipping process...either that or I'm scared *!#%less that I'll mess it up. The DNA40 is all setup just have to paint the top cap & body.
One of the boards that I got back from the last RMA gets all goofy with Ni200. it doesn't actually lock up like previously, but grabled characters and an occasional reboot. It's pretty annoying really. Since it works fine with kanthal I was not going to send it back again, but rethinking that.
The legs hold the board just fine and I might have even been a little rough with it at times. You know what a pain it is to cut wires to a length and solder either on that board (bat-, charger, etc) when its sits in that enclosure? PITA Oh, note to larktdl, solder the wires for the switches...
I've used it and it works great. No modifications necessary. I ran the wires for the up/down switches and the the bat+ wire underneath the DNA with no problems. I don't think it has the changes for the big screen DNA. I didn't have to use anything to fix the placement of the cradle in the...
The check atomizer message usually indicates a problem with either the output wire to the 510 or the gnd that goes to the case. probably a loose connection or bad solder connection on either of those 2 wires. I would not believe that the switch wires would have anything to do with the check...
Gdeal, I think I can help you out with that. Send me the parts and I can put it together for you. I promise to send it back to you...in a year or 2. ;)
I made the mistake of thinking 1 Tibs should suffice. Wrong. Which is probably why I got enough parts for 7 GDNA's.
I've had 2 experiences with sending board back to evolv. The first (broken screen on a DNA30) they told me that I could leave the wires soldered. When I got it back the wire were cut off. It was a PITA to unsolder the little bits of wires from the holes and to get the holes clean enough to...
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