Now that video is sooooooo kool. I am quite humbled in the presence of such crafters. First question...How the heck did you get all that in such a small package??? LOL. I am really interested in how you done the touch switch and what components you used if I may ask. That is so awesome.
Now we are talking. Awesome job. I've been playing with converting reg tobacco pipes to electronic. Had considered an auto switch but never found any without cannibalizing a working ecig to get one and then how to wire it.
Yes, I have one of those I am working on too. The important thing to remember is that to watch the depth of the pipe chamber. It needs to be 1.375" min for a battery to fit in. I want to pick up a forstner bit sometime to use to make the chamber fit the batteries better.
This is my latest conversion. It is a Dr Grabo poker if I remember right. It is my first pipe from when I was still on the stinkies. I had a hard time getting rid of it when we (MY Wife and I) quit smoking. Sadly as I was trying to drill the aluminum piece on the stem to mount a 510 connector in...
Here is a pic of my pipes.
The pipe on top (I call it my driver) I made it just for the terminator-c because of the diameter. I also made the adapter for the stem to fit the mouth piece on the term.
Corn cob pipe on the left is a converted used pipe. Doesn't even need a battery to get a nic...
Really nice work. I too have made a few pipes. They are fun to make. Is the e-pipe mod switch a friction fit? I have a 18500 pipe in the works that this type of switch would solve that issue. Thanks and again nice work. Would love to see a thread we could share tips and tricks and even pics of...
You are correct, I loosen the button bolt and turn the contact to one side. I made mine this way cause I had issues with my Jazz pipe button not making good contact all the time.
I also use a 5/16" O.D. bushing with 1/4-20 threads to mount the switch into the rim of the pipe. Actually I think they are called a threaded furniture insert.
They are pure mechanical switch.
I use 1/4-20 x 1/2" brass pan head bolt with a 7/64" hole drilled through the center of it. I use a short section of .114 diameter brass rod for the center contact post. The center post contacts a short piece of 3/16" brass tubing that is placed in the stem shaft.
I have a shortened CE2 in it. It normally uses XL carto's. I really like the flavor the CE2's have and figured out I could shorten it about 3/16" and it makes it the same length as the XL carto. That pipe is a Jazz carto-pipe. The rest pictured I made plus two more I haven't took a pic of yet...LOL
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