Won't get you more cycles...... charging sooner will though. Cycles much more affected by # amps in/out and charge volts too low and too high.
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I guess it depends on your definition of good or better..... me i don't really consider the V5 an upgrade to those you compare. More a lateral move.
Fact Is no device atomizer or juice is worth the hype.... few things really are.
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For wattage mode you want SS Kanthal or nichrome wire... best will depend on which build You like best...... for 30 plus watts I'd try some 26 awg wire. Maybe a small clapton. Like a 28/32 or 28/36.
Your going to have to build some coil to find out what works best.
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What kind of vape do you like? You want it for TC or VW ? You want a build for 10 watts or 75 or somewhere in between?
I would start by trying to clone or duplicate performance of your favorite coilhead.......
The heaviest wire I have used is 26awg...... I vape at 30 watts or less on coils...
Works on my laptop just fine.....
Did have a USB recognition issues.. but hard reset of the mod to factory install fixed. Have switch back and forth eleaf vs AF several times since. My issue may have been caused by the cable.
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Well I have been trying to get TC to give consistent vape for about 6 months now........ most scotched and hot hits I've had since I first started building coils using protank heads. Yeah tc doesn't burn the wick. But the random hot hits
and non hits just drive me nuts....
Sure it could be...
Shouldn't compare at all..... most modern RTAs are geared to high watts and DL draw... Lemo is lower power builds and more a mtl draw.
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I agree TC is inaccurate.... regardless of material....
Is why I prefer VW or VV regulation using a curved power profile.
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I like that you can make your own heat curve......I don't call it preheat. As you don't use it to heat up the coil before the hit.
I did my own... fires at 150% and decending incrementally downward to 90% at 2.5 seconds.
Who needs TC when you can have a curved power profile.
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Kanthal does change resistance when heating and cooling...... but the change is so slight most TC devices are not sensitive enough to regulate it.
Some TC devices can detect the differences and are able to TC with both kanthal and nichrome.
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Had mine since June 2015. So far no issues..... I use it mostly with an Avocado rtda. But also run a dripper a Sat22 and Kayfuns. I have also upgraded the firmware to Arcticfox... the eleaf FW works fine AF is just better.
If your willing to wait Fasttech is less than $30.
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I run in the 5 to 10 amp range.....
The solution is more batteries and a charger... that way you don't wait for charging.. you lso save wear and tear on the USB port and circuitry.
I usually have 1 battery in the mod 1 on a charger 1 sitting on the shelf and 1 in my pocket (or wife's purse...
Safe enough at least.. just as long as you stay well below the tested 20to22 amp rate of the 25r. Personally I'd be changing in batts before that limits kicks in....
With recharging at 3.4 volts I have gotten almost 3 years out of a couple of my 25rs..... they get used in a 4 battery...
Arctic fox software allows you to turnoff any mode you chose.. you could run VW mode only.... check NFEteam.org for list of compatible devices. This way you choose the device you like then eliminate unwanted options.
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If mod has amp limit low resistance protection... it might wait for the amp limit to shut down. Idk only have had 1 regulated mod it shuts down at 3.2 I think.
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Sounds like it cutting off to me.. what are you expecting to happen?
3.11 sounds a bit low. Most mods stop before going that low. I'd be pulling my batts at 10 to 25%.... I like to charge at 3.4 to 3.5 volts.
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