You really need a digital multimeter with a mech mod. It could tell you the voltage of the battery, voltage at the mod connector, and resistance of the coil. Need to know that info to eliminate an electrical issue.
Assuming nothing else has changed...
You replaced the coil with the same ohm coil? If so, coil shouldn't be an issue.
You cleaned the threads and contacts? If so, that shouldn't be an issue.
Your battery is probably a 20 amp HE2, more than enough battery for a Subtank.
Does the RIG mod have...
For large vapor production most people use a subohm tank like the Atlantis, Subtank, Delta II, etc or a rebuildable dripping atomizer (RDA). If you're newer to vaping a variable wattage mod with 40-50+ watts would be recommended as these atomizers take more power to produce more vapor...
As stated taste is very subjective and different people like different things. I would look for reputable vendors who offer sample packs or just buy small bottles to start out. That way you can try different flavors without spending as much money.
The Chi You appears to be a mechanical mod and you most certainly should NOT run any ICR battery in it. That battery probably has a very low continuous discharge rating, and if it failed it could do so violently (Fire/Explosion).
You need a good high drain safe chemistry battery with a known...
Most either use a built-in battery, wich is typically charged via USB, or use a removable battery, which can be charged on a stand alone charger and sometimes via built-in USB charging.
For example, my iStick has a built in 18650 battery that must be charged via a USB charger. My VaporShark...
Unless you're using a hybrid top cap on your mech mods, the 0.5 ohm coils in the Subtank should be easily safe with the batteries you have.
Also check out the links in my signature, much more info.
As stated, the iStick 50 watt is a dual 18650 4400 mah mod and should last you atleast a day if not longer. The only thing possibly better would be a dual 18650 mod with slightly higher mah rated batteries, but would be a small difference.
The AW IMR 18650 2200 mah batteries have a continuous discharge rate (CDR) of 20 amps. The Akuma appears to be a mechanical mod. Based on that...
0.21 ohm build would draw 20 amps and produce 84 watts of power. (Not recommended, zero safety margin.)
0.30 ohm build would draw 14 amps and...
The Lemo is a good atomizer, I own one, but to me the flavor isn't quite as good as the Squape and it doesn't match you're requirements as closely. However, eLeaf is releasing a Lemo 2 which has improved filling and airflow adjustment. I don't know much else about the Lemo 2, but it is...
This is my build from yesterday:
Same as the last build but with more cotton above the coil and the wire closer to the outside of the atomizer. So far it doesn't seem to dry hit as often, and when it does it's not nearly as harsh. The vapor is a lot more dense than the previous build also...
Based on my experiences with the DNA40, temperature control sounds good in theory, but isn't so great in practice. So many little things can make it not work right. It does hold promise, but it doesn't seem ready for prime time yet. Just my opinion.
A nice rebuildable tank atomizer, like the Squape R, Kayfun, Lemo, etc, would give you great flavor and allow you to do mouth to lung instead of direct to lung inhales. If you don't want to make your own coils then I guess something like an Aspire Nautilus would probably work.
The Squape R fits many of your requirements:
Very easy build deck designed for a single coil.
Great flavor and vapor production.
Adjustable airflow so you can adjust it to your vaping style.
Very few parts and easy to assemble/disassemble.
Can be rewicked/rebuilt without emptying tank.
No tools...
Unless it has a USB port, you would probably need a eGo charging cable and 1.5 amp USB power brick.
EDIT: That might not work well, if the eGo charger limits the current output it might still be slow. Not sure how those work.
Watts is the main indicator of the vapor production and "strength" of the vape you'll get.
A 3 Ohm coil at 4.8 volts will give you about 7.68 watts, which is pretty low. A 1.5 Ohm coil will give you a similar 7.68 watt vape at only 3.4 volts. If you crank the spinner up to 4.8 volts with a...
Increasing the ohms would allow you to increase the voltage and have less chance of buring your wicks, but the increased resistance will also result in less wattage, so you're not really gaining anything. With an adjustable device like the spinner resistance isn't that important. I would...
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