Email Amanda at supertmanufacturing@yahoo.com with your change and we should be able to get you taken care of. Goal is to have the remaining ELA's done by weeks end.
Yes, I think we can do up some of those. I also have some slant 22mm and 16mm slant caps (both with no cross slots) done. I'm not going to put them up just yet as I want to get on top of the last ELA's to go out this week.
just wanted to update that we are still on track for our goal of getting the remaining Elas shipped by weeks end. We'll send out tracking on them too within the next day or so.
Through order 19509 has shipped and I have approximately 40 orders left of ELA's which we should all have ready and shipped this coming week, making us all caught up again! Now, how to not go in the hole again...anyone need a job :-)
The tube lock ring/mechanism is tighter to begin with but it is a much better design then before, bigger, holds better, doesn't deform and conducts better. The tolerances are tighter on it, but if you give it time, trust me it will break in and slide with relative ease.
As far as the battery...
If its outfiring, then you also need to adjust the switch throw that way you can run the orings that work and get rid of that unsightly gap. As delivered, it should have one thick machined brass washer on the switch post. (approx. .160 thick). Try first running three washers (they are .040...
Fortunately we had little to no problems with the couple of batches of TI's we made. Titanium requires special machining technique and tooling. It isn't the metal itself per se. Though Titanium does have higher friction values it can be overcome with tooling and technique. Titanium metal...
If that doesn't work for you, keep in mind its covered under warranty and we can press in a new insulator for you, I know it can be a pain overseas to send it in, but if you have a mod too, you can send that in with it and we can freshen them both up for you at the same time.
Thanks, so the Schaf and the Satburn use the same design concept with a screw in brass piece that screws into the button and then the switch post in turn screws into the brass piece. Our design eliminates one of these electrical junctions as our design has the switch post screwing directly into...
The problem I see with that is a one piece switch then you'd have to have the entire switch plated, and when the plating wears, you'd have to replace the entire switch, not just the contact itself.
So you can't remove the switch to clean inside the cap where the switch passes through? If so, that's a critical area that needs to be cleaned periodically as it builds up gunk and corrosion and will limit performance as the connection degrades as this switch ground via two ways, friction...
In all fairness, I've only ever seen the inside of the Satburn, but am assuming the Schafer is similar. The Satburn has a screw in brass retention piece that screws into the button and then you screw the switch contact into that brass piece which is threaded on the inside.
Ours utilizes a...
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