Well, I just needed an excuse for a new meter... for other things - my cheapo meter was a pretty good DMM for 1981. To get to .001% cost me about $350 and I got the software and cables for $30 on ebay- If I were to do it again, I would probably have picked up one of the DSO's that Scotbee was...
I think somewhere down the thread (around that time frame) he indicated it didn't really do much to the duty cycle to push towards 100% as it drained, but that was with the versions they were shipping a year ago.... There were a few revs since then.
I think they keep the RMS constant using...
Peak-Peak was 3.98V - RMS should read about 3.6- go back here and down the page....
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/joye-510/65055-battery-voltages-surprise-12.html#post2301546
Sorry, I no longer have an eGo to test.:(
Let's not get into a battle over semantics - at least according to National Semi-any switching supply operates by PWM... technically Buck-Boost is PWM.
See page 2: http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-556.pdf
Its not my understanding that the PRovari modulates the duty cycle at a constant peak...
That's what I meant ;-)
here's the parts I already have from McMaster-Carr
- Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M1 Screw Size, 3.2mm OD, 0.25mm-0.35mm Thick, Packs of 100
Part #93475A154
-Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M1.6 Screw Size, 4mm OD, 0.25mm-0.35mm Thick, Packs of 100-...
I said DSA- I meand DSO - the USB ones that cost about $150 online.... there's also some old standard TEK scopes you can pick up on fleabay for around $100 but they take up space and if you want a picture you have to take one....
I'm in the same boat- although I always imagine what I could do...
1) no: not necessary.... end of day, what value would it provide to anyone? Mine came apart in an accident- I didn't bother looking for markings- the PCB has several components on it in addition to the processor. Not sure but I think it's a multilayer board... its not something you could easily...
I think alot of the info re: improvements wasn't out there till a few weeks ago- you had to go with what was known at the time, and what you could get.
Add, its next to near impossible to order 2 or 3 of thesse parts- they come in packs of 100 so you get what you get and you live with it...
I got to the same point- once I could get a full day out of the battery (and then some) it doesn't really matter- whenever I leave the house, I pop in a fresh battery - otherwise, I just vape until it starts blinking... I was trying to record run times and volumes but it's become too much of a...
What fun would that be? Then we'd all run around like audiophiles comparing specs on a piece of paper as opposed to listening to music....
Even if you had the spec on the chip (you could open up the unit, get the part numbers and look them up), it would depend on how its configured..... I'm...
The dirt is kind of a resistor in your circuit. The result is the battery appears to the ProVari to be at a lower voltage/lower state of charge than it actually is.
Doesn't explain much....
try this one - may make your head spin a bit but it covers it all with an explaination of how they work:
http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-556.pdf
Yep- this is my third add also- I ordered a few extra 1.5's on my first order and added 2 more tanks on the second but forgot to add the extra bottles for those...
I can only imagine what we've done to Uwe's in box .... I suspect every time he posts here he gets a ton of e-mail as a result...
My original order was via e-mail to Uwe- he sent an email to me directly with the invoice...
I tried to reach him directly but didn't hear back for a few days so on Sunday, I ordered some extra bottles, mesh, mouthpieces on the website. Prices on the mesh are pretty good and like you said...
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