I ordered most of the add on parts from PKZap27's build - I have several to build as well. Costs about $40 but you end up with 100 washers (3 sizes), 100 O'rings (2 sizes), 100 spacers (2 sizes) and 25 nuts.... I'm planning on breaking them into sets and will to put a few up on the clasifieds...
Quick look -
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/DE-SWADJ3.doc
The efficiency graph starts at 8V for a 6V output. They are not telling you something- or more likely they are telling you that it doesn't drive 6V with less than 8V input.... I don't see info in the spec to tell if...
no- no- no -no
Now you did it Shadow :-) You broght the kids to a candy store and snuck out the back door....
I wrote a nice response - took me an hr to do it and when I clicked "Go Advanced" to check it, I got a log in screen and blew it away... Sorry....the short response will have to...
It doesn't need to boost, but it needs headroom - 1.1 or 1.2V at least- to run.
Either that, or there is something wrong with it.
What does it do with an 18650 when you set it at 4V?
yeah - couple of things - educated guess- you're loosing alot of efficiency in that circuit - I don't know the details, but I suspect it's not set up to boost.
Also...
- when you stack batteries you do not increase the mAh rating- so you're effictively running a 7.4V (nominal) battery with...
I use 3.5's and 4.2's ;-) with the IMRs I couldn't run below 1.9/1.8 without errors. Even at 3.3V.
I definitely get better mileage with standard attys.
I can't remember the exact number but I think it was around 20% worse at 6V at the same power level than 5V....
As Ukeman said, check the voltage when it starts flashing... That was happening to me about 2 weeks ago - I swapped out springs, cleaned the batteries and connectors (see details a few pages back) and now all is good. If your unit is brand new contact provape- something is wrong. Otherwise...
In general I agree with you- the premise would be that the HR atty was made by using more wire as opposed to a thinner gauge.
Also, temperature of the wire is a function of current and wire gage- on paper, the longer resistance wire would run cooler because it would be passing less current...
Have you put it on a scope?
I don't believe they are doing PWM to regulate the RMS voltage. Buck/Boost regulators do in fact generate pulses and most can be tuned or programmed a bit, but I do not believe they are using full blown PWM and adjusting the duty cycle to give you the full range RMS...
You said you were done- apparently you weren't....
From Uwe:
What more update do you need- there were 800+ orders- the Co-Op was open on the german forum way before here. Do you think you were one of the first 150? It was pretty clear that this was going to take a few months (2-3...
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