They did it because of "safety reasons" and because this way they get to sell vape shops a $200 box. There's no doubt in my mind that if they didn't get complaints about the update procedure from customers, they would have done it the same way with the Radius.
Like I said, change the connection...
There's no need for a USB connector. The battery contact on the PCB also doubles as a way to access the chipset to perform the update. All you have to do is change the connection protocol and make a cable with a USB connection on one end, and the same connector that's on the cable that hooks up...
Believe it or not but I've been living together with two women for the past 7 years. We're a threesome.
Now let the comments about how I'm delusional begin.
At first I thought so because it's a Dicodes so it has to be great, right? It has some nice features such as heat protection (when using kanthal) and power boost modes but you can set up a similar power curve on the ML Class to get the same boost effect. Imo, the only thing the Dani-Box has...
I'm thinking about selling my blue Dani-Box because I hardly use it. I always grab the ML Class because I greatly prefer it's ergonomics so the only thing the Dani does is gather dust.
The AG is probably in the pockets of big tobacco and big pharma, hence the complete mess. She's looking out for herself, not the health of vapers and smokers.
I get about 3 more hours with the Dani-Box because I have set the cut off to 2.7. I don't know what the efficiency is but I think it's something like 95% for both the ML and Dani. And I don't mind the battery cap on the ML. It's a small price to pay for the excellent ergonomics.
There isn't a big difference. I've set up a custom curve on the ML that gives me the same effect as the power boost set to 5 on the Dani-Box. The ML is also the device I always grab because it fits the hand so well, the ergonomics are unbeatable. The only difference for me is that you can get a...
The battery cap on my ML also screws on with some resistance because of the spring inside the tube. Without it, it screws on very lightly. It'll get better with time as the spring compresses.
If you look at the remaining voltage when it no longer fires you'll see it's actually around 2.9 volts under load (at least it is with my HG2). The way Yihi does it is the safe way to do it.
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