Not sure magnetism cares all that much about a little e-liquid. Personally, I've got more issues with mods that rely on aluminum contacts to my battery in place of silver, gold, palladium, rhodium, copper or brass. But I suppose with time I may get used to it. Or not. :unsure:
Waiting on my CAM Hastur right now. Gotta admit, I've got a Hastur dripper I haven't even gotten around to building. All my drippin' right now is getting all "go big or go home", which doesn't seem to fit the Hastur.
Does anybody know of a quality 18650 mechanical squonk box with a bottom fire button? I'm looking for something as elegant as my SMPL. I just prefer the ergonomics of a bottom button.
Changin' it up tonight:
Old Reliable: Sigelei 150
The Beast: Zephyr Buddha V2 30 mm
Samsung 25Rs
26/34 ga Kanthal dual Claptons, 0.4 ohm
Vapers Choice cotton
80/20 VG/PG 3 mg nic unflavored
I think you'll likely be very happy with it. By my very brief experience, they make a quality, reasonably-priced Hammond box. And that warranty just seals the deal.
Vape happy & vape safe.:smokie:
I received a parallel 26650 box from BCBoxMods last week. First impressions of it are very good. Clean workmanship & high quality internals. As has been mentioned, great warranty. Quick build (less than 2 weeks) and good communication about shipping. Oh yeah: sale prices right now make this...
Still playing with the Welding Tab.
So far, my best results are with cross wire and ~1mm overlap welds. Clamping the leads together with insulated tweezers to make contact also helps provide more intimate joining. Gonna play with sanding the surface of the wires later to see if I can improve...
Not necessarily. Most of the heating will occur at the highest resistance junction in the circuit. If you keep your copper clips and contacts clean, and insure that they have a good contact area, the Kanthal/Kanthal or Kanthal/Nickel or Nickel/Nickel or whatever interface should be the highest...
Did a handful of .... welds since I posted. Ground the ends flat. They're OK, but I'm pretty sure that a proper overlap weld would be stronger. It just requires some compressive force. I need the force anyway because I want to do some cross wire welding for the pieces I have in mind...
Playing with my Welding Tab from The Friday Morning. So far, most of my welds look like this:
Good conductivity, and pretty good tensile strength, but a little bit of twisting and they pop apart. The capacitive discharge literally blows the wires apart. Real resistance welds require...
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