Only vaper here too w/ :
2 - 18650's
2 - 18350's
6 - 14500's
4 - 3.7v 16340's
16 - 3v rcr123a's
and 4 chargers. 2 of which are 3v. lol
We could support a lot of vapers at a party. :D
You're using these in a tank right?
Have you tried cutting the mesh at a 45 degree angle? When you roll it into a wick it's very pliable. Almost springy. It makes realy nice curves that way.
Nothing really makes bottom feed mods superior. It's the same as dripping but from below.
It's more a matter of the convenience of a fully self contained device.
As for flooding, nothing prevents that. You get a feel for how much to squeeze the bottle and when. I only flood my atty...
Your vaping style and juice could aslo play a role with what your describing.
Vaping at 6v and up can be a tricky place to visit. I lived there for over a year.
I've used standard resistance 510's, 901's and various cartos. I've tried too many HR atty's as well.
Atty's just don't cut...
Probably the cheapest way to get started is to buy a "DIY kit".
Something like this: USA Made Unflavored DIY E-liquid
That's the kit I started with and it served me well.
I only got 1 but I didn't want to try and be greedy. I considered myself lucky enough just to get in on them.
I gotta hand it to STURM. This has gone without a hitch and right on schedule. Even with changes and additional work on his part there were no delays.
Class act!
IF that's the charger they no longer sell (it was green in the pic with a car adapter) then yes 18350's will fit.
I have the older style AG 126 which used the same plastic shell as that green one. 16340's also fit fine.
And so it begins...
Good job man! What's the plan for number 2?
The MadVapes VV kit is a good upgrade and fairly easy to build. It's not even close to the best VV circuit out there but it does the job for very little money. Some kind of heat sink for the VV chip will be your friend.
I need this to arrive so I can see if I'm going to keep my P-18. My A2-T isn't convincing enough to keep it. lol
I'm suprised I've been so patient these last few weeks. Now I'm getting anxious.
While I don't have a tank that uses polyfil carto's, I can say that as far as I know, all polyfil carto's draw air up through the hole in the connector. It's just how they are designed. The 808-D1 and Boge 510 carto's are virtually the same internally.
I'd venture to guess your flooding issue...
You only need to solder the negative wire to a tube if you don't have all metal contact points from the atty connector to the rest of the mod. Some people put the connector in epoxy which isn't conductive, hence the need for a wire.
The paperclip trick is for attys not making contact with the battery connector.
Have you seen this part of the modders forum? Battery Mods
I suggest you browse through those threads. You'll get a much clearer picture of what battery mods entail as well as a lot of ideas. There is plethora of...
You got it.
The switch can be anything conductive. As long as it makes contact with the tube AND the battery, all is well. I've used rivets, bolts and screws as switches. You have to be sure the spring doesn't touch the negative side of the battery though or you'll always have current. A...
I both support and endorse the above statement.
You Sir, are by no means a heavy vaper. An AW lasts me 3-4 hours on average. 2 get me through my workday with a spare just in case. I've needed the spare quite often. I WISH I could get 10 hours from a 14500 as I'm sure most other 14500 users...
Have you considered a passthrough plugged into the "accessory outlet" (cigarette lighter) via a usb adapter?
That's much easier to deal with and won't fry the electrical system in your car.
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