the nickle ones dont really work very well in TC due to the excessive mass of the ceramic heat sink attached to it :)...luckily they work perfectly fine in wattage mode...been doing it with 3 PVs for over a month..sure the resistance is lower but not not below what many PVs can handle
If your using the Ccell heads with nickle in TC mode its not going to work right and feel under powered even at high temp settings
try switching over to just power (watt) mode..had the same problem on several different PVs...the temp control coil caps out before the ceramic heats up to full temp..
if so theres something seriously wrong with your cuboid...perhaps a circuit problem internally or a bad contact ...twice the battery HAS to last twice as long under the same loads
I would suggest metering the batts as a quick comparison after a days use
not sure your fire switch hole diameter...if 12mm I would try a mitek msw1202...try dripp3d...about as compact as there is
if you reconfigure your voltmeter wiring with a dpdt switch you can switch monitor both batts and flop to output voltage all on one on the same meter...looks like you have...
picked up two of these recently...for as sharp as the pictures looked they were a disappointment in fit and finish and one fired "funny"
both had loose covers and one had severe fire button rattle...
the metal edges are kinda sharp (over 90) for the recess
bingo..best way possible....but his was cheaper...if ya had a carto...I sold all mine off in bulk back when Iclears came out LOL :)
but..I still have some 510 to 510 adapters that could be solder "filled"
Thanks...ive done a few others but this one just turned out really well after I learned a couple things from previous ones...
its etched silver and forced patina black with some clear to help it hold the patina ...and leather of course :)
been working on it for months LOL
have you tried replacing the head? the only time Ive had any issue with leaking out the bottom or air holes thats always solved the issue...some of the clone heads will do that on occasion..if not that then there are replacement gaskets and center pins and seals available from aspire...
just go directly over with multiple clear coats like rustoleum clear lacquer is popular but it can change/darken the color somewhat ...you can knock off the high spots with a light rubbing of 0000 steel wool if desired prior to coating...I suggest a solvent wipe down with alcohol or pure acetone...
istick (or similar clone like a smart 20) is a much better choice then a twist IMO...far superior battery life (2000 mah) and better wattage flexibility...theres good reason these things are selling by the ship loads :)
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