Somewhere in between 10 and 20 amps is where I stay with my raptor. I don't even put a volt meter in anymore. I just adjust the volts until I'm satisfied. I have plenty of room to play. I don't regularly crank it up all the way but if I wanna show off it's always available.
There is so many switches on mouser and digikey that fit your description. I'm not gonna lie though those sites have so many items it's can be a real anxiety attack trying to find something
it's a non mechanical switch that is probably some sort of sensor under the face plate of my xbox. There is no visible switch and you don't need to push, just touch.
If this is what were talking about I want one for my raptor box mods I've been building.
I have a blueprint for a custom enclosure. Does anyone know a source where I can get this milled or cnc milled. Thinking of wood, aluminum, or delrin. Any help would be appreciated.
I also use the 7.5k still since I've been building these before the updated diagram. I would also like to know how using the 4.7k would differ? I read a while back that some have experienced auto firing with the 7.5k but I never have. Could someone please explain what those resistors do and what...
I would also like to know. I'm still following the first diagram only using 1 positive pin and snipping the other. If there is a better way I would also like to know. I don't want anything going "unstable"
I think that would be the effect of not having any voltage drop from unregulated mods. When I built my first raptor mod I set the volts to 4.2 to simulate a fresh battery in a mech mod with no volt drop and was blown away by the results. It just hit so noticeably harder. Then I set it to like...
Well personally I never enjoyed springs in my switches. Always put in magnets. I don't have this mod but it wouldn't be too hard to do done simple measuring and find some magnets that will fit. Indigo instruments, Supermagnetman, and there is another one I forget the name. I always seems as if...
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