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......n these mods are beautiful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah that's what I figured. I could continue cranking the atties down, but I'm not comfortable with that. All my atties fire perfectly fine so I guess I could sorta live with it. I'll prolly just end up putting a 22mm atty on t just to hide me gap. Now I just gotta get escribe to work on my...

Late to the party. Is t me or is the 510 on this mod extremely shallow? There's a 2mm gap on most atties I own: hadalay, O atty, o-16, narda etc Lastly, I'm pretty new to this. Apart from setting in my own TCR for 316 SS, any recommendations on setting up the escribe? Sent from my iPhone...

Ah it's new from rob. I've decided to go your route with a mini driver. Works well, but took my and my giant potato fingers close to half an hour to get the button back in! I would probably still try out the rubber band + plied method at some point in the future, just in case I ever need to...

Haha that's what I tried initially. Metal on metal was no good. Alawot's suggestion to use a wide rubber band + pliers sounds like it would def work. Will give that a shot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Part of the reason I wanna disassemble it is because the button is getting a little sticky from the build up of dirt in the button hole. I'm gonna hafta at least loosen the metal nipple if I wanna have a chance of removing the button unfortunately. ETA: I have the new one. Also on my 3 other...

Quick question: after a year, it's time for a full disassembly and clean up for my LP grand. Only problem is I can't seem to unscrew the metal nipple(?) to remove the positive leave. I've tried using pliers to no avail. Any suggestions? I'm worried about destroying that metal part. Sent from...

Quick question. FT has two 316 ss variants "Origen Little, 316 SS, silver" And "Origen Little, 316, Silver - B" Is there a general consensus on which is better? Also, how does air airflow compare to a narda? That's about as tight as I can go :/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That could work. I'm gonna try 13 x 1.5, and just add a tiny bit of floss. It's always worked well for me in fine tuning slightly loose top caps [emoji1362] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For folks who find the Maker RDA top cap to be far too tight, the default o ring is 14mm ID X 1.5mm cross section. Going down to 13mm ID makes it too loose for my liking. Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A single/dual 18650 + DNA75/whatever else is still my absolute dream squonker, since I never go above 40 watts anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

interested in the typhon! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've emptied my tin can. It has one baggy, containing the 2 different sized o rings, 1 hex key, and 2 of the original golden screws. No biggie though, I just bought 10 of the screws for a buck +. In the mean time, im just using a standard m2.5 screw and it works well. Sent from my iPhone...

Hey chowder. What's the specs for the chi-o-atty's replacement screws? Somehow managed to lose one during the first wash and it doesn't come with spares. Hahaha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Tom. I just dropped a PM to Branko. Once I hear back I'll put in a couple of orders, and let y'all know if any other o rings might work better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same. Apart from the fact that my top cap is obscenely tight, I love it. The deck is versatile enough to do wide duals or single Z coils. The flavor is great. Airflow is easily tunable and very smooth. Pretty much leak proof. Would def be one of my most frequently used atty, if the top cap...

I know the Maker never quite took off with the crowd here, but that's a damn good atty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Corey, could you share a couple of pictures showing that dual 18650 side by side with: - a classic cc - everyday objects like a credit card Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy birthday chowder. I've known you for far too long eh [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the fellas who have receive the chi o atty, how long are the new screws? Would you be able to unscrew it sufficiently, such that it's not completely off, and the base of the screw head still clears the lip of the positive and negative post? Figured if it is, then we wouldn't have to mess...