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Plain, simple Ketchup. Sounds weird, but works very well.

I'm with Fidola in this matter. This "update" sucks. The page looks awful and the functionality is awkward. I'm not around here very often lately anyways, so I don't want to relearn things that worked more or less flawlessly for me before the update.

If you can get your hands on the Pulse V2 RDA, it'll be the perfect match for any Squonker. Easy to build, great flavor, customizable for single and dual coil builds due to the airflow inserts and it's nearly impossible to oversquonk because of that deep juice well. On top of that it is a very...

Hopefully none of the contestants had to change pants afterwards. Or did they have to perform freestyle?

Ni80 is an alloy of 80% nickel and 20% chrome. It's even less reactive than SS 316l, so there shouldn't be a problem

Ni80 26x3/38 5 wraps 3mm ID. Depending on leg length the resistance will be at about 0.21ohm. Although this coil hits a bit rowdy in the beginning, it performs quite well down to 3.4V.

Serisvape Bathala + VandyVape Pulse V2 RDA

It may as well be a bad batch of coils.

Wotofo Conqueror (Mini)

The Nudge RDA is a great performer. When built right it produces some really, really good flavor that is right on par with the best modern atties. It's in fact so good, that it's still in my rotation. But it has its drawbacks. First of all it can be a ....h to build. As a starter don't even try...

As long as it's not a pubic hair you're probably safe.

Because the discepancy in ohms is way too big and thus the safety features of the mod would kick in. My mods would never change the ohms on their own when I get asked whether it's a new coil or not.

None of my 30+ regulated mods would fire the 1.6ohm coil in your example. Instead they'd put out an error message like "check atomizer" or "short".

That's because the resistance of a SS, Ni200 or Ti coil rises when it gets hot. The mod however needs the resistance of a cool coil to calculate the correct temperatures in TC-mode.

It doesn't matter for how long you vape. What matters in this case is knowledge in metallurgy, which in your case is obviously lacking.

It's not about destroying a coil when dryburning. The integrity of the metal may still be intact, but if the temperature gets too high, the metal oxidizes on the surface. That oxidized layer will flake off, so you will inhale it. Problem is that those oxides are highly toxic. The only wiretype...

NiChrome is a lot less reactive than pure nickel, so there's no problem when dry burning, but as showmetwice said, keep the temperature as low as possible. A dull red glow should suffice. The same is true for SS316l btw. The only type of wire you can dryburn without any problems is Kanthal...

Snus is illegal in most parts of Europe.

If you dryburn Ni200, the coil is ruined. If the coil gets glowing hot, it develops a nickeloxide layer, which is toxic and highly unhealthy. So no. You absolutely DO NOT want to DRYBURN NICKEL to check for hotspots. The same is true for titanium as well btw.

You don't need to check for hotspots when building spaced coils, which is the only option for Ni200 wire. Never ever build contact coils.