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Thanks for contributing to the post. Hopefully the information you shared will be more useful! :)

If you use a lower wattage, the juice won't vaporize until the coil is at the boiling point of the juice. It ramps up to that point gradually. If you use a higher wattage, the slope of the curve right after the fire button is pressed is much steeper, causing some juice to 'explode'. That's the...

I'd really like to see a comparison of the heating of different brands of batteries under load. Honestly, it seems like that would be the best way to determine which batteries to buy from the batteries that are recommended. I'm sure they're similar in some sense, but it'd be interesting to...

Thanks :)

Cool. That's pretty interesting, although I wouldn't run any batteries at their CDR. I like to have a few amps of cushion.

I agree. I only use stainless steel with another wire in claptons. The difference in resistance between the wires could lead to some bad things, like deforming the coil and shorting out.

Mind if I see a link? It's been a while since I did any research on batteries for my own use.

you are right, but there are no 30 amp 18650s, per mooch.

The popping is caused by excess juice on the cotton, or juice being heated up too fast to be vaporized. Imagine throwing an ice cube in a pot of boiling water. It will do the same thing (don't try that. it's dangerous. you could get burned). Also, you shouldn't hate math. Hate how it was...

Well if you're vaping higher wattage, you'll want to have more metal. The smaller the RDA, the more condensed the cloud, and the flavor will be that much more pronounced. However, if you're using a larger RDA (28mm diameter or greater) then you'll be able to put in more metal, and heat it...

For clouds, you need surface area. You should try making some claptons, later try fused Claptons. The guy who said that it doesn't do much is right. Most builds you see that look sweet are what's termed 'vanity builds'. I call them hannity builds in my head, because they're full of .... and...

Excellent. I'll have to write that down on my list of equipment I would like to pick up. Thanks for the recommendation

This is a fascinating post. Thank you for sharing this. What model oscilloscope are you using? I was looking at getting one.

Pretty much. But the constant is dependent on the device.

Okay, I read what you posted, and all he's doing is changing the constant value by which you're dividing your resistance. It doesn't make ohms law irrelevant for regulated mods. It's in fact, the exact same thing as ohms law. The only change is the constant in the numerator. It IS the same thing.

Okay, if that's true, it's possible that I'm missing an equation for the right calculations. I'd like to see it if you could share it.

if it is safe in a mech mod, it's applicable to a regulated mod because of the internal resistance on the device is higher than a mechanical mod. I'm talking about purely theoretical limits. In practice, it's actually going to be lower at the same resistance, because of the internal resistance...

Ohms law defines amperage, which defines wattage.

The only difference between what I am saying and what he is saying is that he is solving for amperage given wattage and voltage. which instead of I=v/r and IV=W, you get I = w/v. It's still ohms law. I don't see how that refutes my point.

The board does the calculations. I'm not really following what you mean by that, to be honest.