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What kind of wattage do you vape at? I've had no luck with traditional tanks and higher VG juice at higher watts. When they aren't flooded, they are producing dry hits.

It's sitting as a backup in case of a zombie apocalypse.

I didn't care for it. I much prefer the Pontus. I guess if you go quad coil, the Revel would work well.

I was all about regulated before, but I found they became incredibly fragile. After my VS rDNA 40 died in a month, I've pretty much sworn regulated boxes off. Regulated mods are crap. I'm done with them.

I'm looking for a 26650 mechanical squonker, but I'm not having any luck. Does such a thing exist?

I've recently dropped down to 1mg nic in my juice (keep in mind I do sub-ohm so it's more than it sounds). Dropping from 2mg to 1mg is going much better than I thought, but I still feel the pull of nicotine (or perhaps it's just the vaping action). For those that dropped to 0 nic after slowly...

I've already dumped the micro coils, but the last time I played with ribbon wire I started fires inside my RBA. Maybe that was because I used to low a guage, but I don't know. The fire would start on the part of the wire coming out of the positive pin and before it came in contact with a wet...

I really wanted to buy a Provari 3 too, until the specs came out. 20 watts just won't do it for me, at least not with an RBA. I need 18-19 watts per coil and it's nearly impossible to find a decent single coil RBA these days.

My Vaporshark died just as fast as my higher powered and much cheaper Chinese mods. I never had an issue with the older generation of VV/VW mods, but now I think I am done with regulated. They are way too fragile now.

In my experience, denting happens when screwing the battery cap on where you have much more torque pressing against the battery than you do with simply pressing a button. Your 510 pin in the top cap may need to be adjusted.

Why do all of the mods with hybrid 510 connections have vent hols in the top cap? Doesn't this make it so juice can easily leak on to the battery?

My local vape shop has a 26650 stainless mutant clone from CIGreen with brass battery connectors. Is it worth it without the copper? Also, it has a floating center pin which I suspect would cause voltage loss.

Do they make a 26650 version of that?

Too bad it's made by Smok.

My up button is stuck though it does not appear to be pressed in. Is there a way to release it?

It really depends on the gauge of wire in your atty. The lower gauge the wire, the more power you need to reach the temp range for a proper vape. For 26 gauge wire, I find 16-17 watts per coil is my sweet spot. For 24 gauge, more power is needed (I don't think 40 watts is enough in my RDNA 40...

If you start with an RDA, you can concentrate on coil building instead of coil building and wicking. Wicking in RTAs can be finicky and is yet another skill you would need to learn. I would probably start with a Magma.

What kind of wires will temp control work with?

What's so tricky about wicking? I've been thinking about picking one up but I'm tired of tanks that flood then starts giving you dry hits. I really wish they made a reduced chamber single coil RDTA with a glass tank that has the chamber size of a single coil RTA.

I'd be thrilled with 26 gauge. 24 gauge is fine for single coil, but 40 watts isn't quite enough power for dual 24 gauge coils.