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Everyone praises them for SLR but I never saw a test done which is why I was wondering. edit: I think enough people started saying it and it just became "common knowledge". Similar thing happened with stainless mesh ie, lower # for thicker juice which wasn't true after testing.

Empire Mods has this on sale for $21: Deal of the Day as of this post. I picked one up to play with.

Does anyone have a chart for the MNKE 1500mah IMR? I can only find one and it performed worse than the AW 1600 with v drop and mah. edit: High-Drain 18650 Shootout

That's the AGA-t2, I'll try to extrapolate lol

Can someone with the RSST and AGA-T take a pic next to this new version?

If you have a battery graph at the same amperage you vape at, then you can get a pretty good idea whether or not the mod is conducting properly.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=428618

Here is my #19 with the "sg-free" mod and the 8W switch: The 8W switch makes it even shorter than the stock switch + it feels nicer to fire. I shortened the firing pin a bit and added an o-ring to shorten the throw. It was also very simple to disassemble. Currently waiting on a brass #19...

Go for SS. As long as the center pin is brass or copper, it'll be fine. There is a lot more surface area conducting on the negative section of the 510. Never had a SS 510 connector strip.

They used thread locker on the threads, so heat the button with a torch to break it free.

I also got a #20 apart and tried to figure out a solution to the (really dumb) switch design. I threaded a nylon spacer to 6-32 and pressed it in from the battery to the atty connector, then screwed in two brass screws to make adjustable poles. I removed a piece of the spacer where the gap of...

It's cheesy looking with all that nonsense. The Natural looks a lot nicer.

Thanks pdib haha. Yea it depends on how that spot got like that. I end up tearing small spots on my batteries after a few months of being careless going in and out of the charger and have no issue with re-wrapping. But, if that damage was due to a short I'd just toss it and get a new one...

Clear packing tape is durable and thin enough that it won't bind in mods.

It depends on how much the brass pin juts out to contact the battery. Mine made contact with the battery before touching the bottom of the housing (where you placed the washer). Tilting the button would get it to fire along with a spark from the side walls. If you have the magnet in place, added...

Hitting the button directly in the middle would sometimes result in a misfire as the tolerance between the body and button is too large.

Try heating it up with a torch or stove then quickly dropping it in cold water. Mine popped right out the second it touched the water.

Read that link I included - you can measure .01 ohms accurately if you wanted. Personally, I compare my performance to graphs from dependable battery testers. If it's close, then the mod isn't an issue.

That method doesn't really tell you much about the resistance of the mod as the multimeter won't be able to accurately measure such low ohms. http://www.robotroom.com/Measuring-Low-Resistances.html has a good guide. Check the voltage of your battery with no load, then the voltage at the atty...

Measure the battery by itself, then measure at the posts of the atty while firing. I'm done modding mechanicals when the voltage drop is inline with what the battery is capable of: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Callies%20Kustoms%202250mAh%20%28Grey%29%20UK.html