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Hi to all, For me the difference between ceramic cup and the ss replacement is noticeable (better with the ceramic cup) but i always was a ceramic up lover :) Noise was not an issue in my case, just a little hissssh from the airflow but not something that i can say that bothered me . Of...

I recently made this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiWPqyO0-XE&list=UU79X16EQjPWxLE1wK_eqyDQ with 2x2Ohm coils and the results on a mech mod was FANTASTIC....!!!!! just try it :)

From my experience it may work it may not...if i want to be sure i don't have any leakage i always pull diver so the juice holes of diver are not inside the tank. A very usefull tool is that ...

Θαναση πολυχρονος νασαι παντα γερος και να χαιρεσαι την οικογενεια σου.

ok guys you got me !!! i am using diver v1 and v2 most of the time in a scuba tank with no problems , but reading all this posts about BB i must have one so i can contribute to your very nice talk you have here. How i can get a BB?....i see it is out of stock every time i checked.:blink: Kat...

Diver in stock!!!! time to get one with flange for my scuba:vapor:

great work guys....can't wait to taste your new atomizer.

φυσικα και οχι.....ειπαμε να χαλαρωσουμε....οχι να βουτηχτουμε....χαχαχαχα.... Καλες προσγειωσεις.:toast:

ρε captain για να χαλαρωσουμε....για πες αν μετα τη N1 κρατησει ο Νο1 ....το σηκωνεις ή πας για abort take off????:blink:

wrong post

the other method is as shown below at the photo

If i have a case with a wider bottom hole of the ceramic i use 2 methods. assume we made the resistance and put it in the ceramic.It should look like this i cut a piece of non-wire from the one that goes up and i bend it as you see and then i put it in the bottom of the ceramic...

4/5 so it can have some air inside the tank.....first time only to help the wicking a new coil needs. 3,2V so we can pass the "breaking" period of the new coil....doing it always in new coils in all the RBA i use. Both things i am doing it in new coils always....at all RBA.

My Diver setup in pictures. First i make a resistance about 1,7Ω. (resistance wire nickel-chrome 0.17mm , no resistance wire nickel-chrome 0.2mm) I am putting three (3) 2mm silica wick one on top of the other. "][/URL] then i take out the o-ring at Diver's base and i put some Vaseline...

The "Tirbuson" method rocks....thanks guys..:toast:

got it two weeks now.....it works just fine.....no problems at all....but because dual coil was too hot for my taste i used a wick with no coil and put it above the crossing wick (the one with the coil).....and feeding was perfect. the cuts at the upper plastic and ceramic are for 1,5mm...

Θαναση ευχομαι περαστικα , απο αυτα που εμαθα γυρω απο τη μεση (λογω της μητερας μου) ειναι οτι υπαρχουν πολλες διαφορετικες περιπτωσεις και ο καθε ανθρωπος ειναι διαφορετικος οποτε πρεπει να εισαι προσεκτικος στις επιλογες σου.....συνηθως καθε περιπτωση ειναι ψιλοδιαφορετικη με την αλλη...

diver atomiser does not work in ufs......it is not a bottom feeder atomiser.....feeding is like in a punched cartomiser. works only in tanks that you put a punched (on the side of the body) cartomiser.

καλο θα ηταν και ενας οδηγος με τα o-rings της ιθακης....ακομα και απο αυτο το o-ring που εχουν μερικες και οχι ολες γιατι σιγουρα θα χρειαστουμε.....εγω χρειαζομαι ηδη...:blush:

και μια ερωτηση γρηγορη για την ιθακη..... στο βιντεο που εκανες θαναση σε αυτο το κομματι εχεις o-ring...ενω σημερα που πηρα την ιθακη δεν ειχε.....εχει αλλαξει κατι ή επεσα στην περιπτωση? ειναι το κομματι που μεσα σε αυτο βιδωνει το rebuildable part και μετα ολο μαζι βιδωνει στην βαση.