Make sure it's in RMS mode and that will solve the burning problem. If it's a genuine KSD Vamo V5, it will have this option. Not sure what the clones have
Yes, and the reputation of Kangside suffers from this garbage that began flooding the market last year. I've sold (literally) a ton of genuine KSD Vamo and they're great devices. Now, people are afraid of them thanks to the counterfeiters who pump out this crap.
The V5 does supply >6V to the pin in the mobile out mode but the charging adapter cuts it back to 5V.
If you check the V5 output with a probe and make any contact with ground, the display says "Short" and immediately kicks the Vamo back into vaping mode
They can. It's the luck of the draw. I'm using the same 801 since September 2 and a 302 since October 11. I've also had 10 go out in a couple of months before.
Just a quick update. After a year or two the bottom cap will need replacement. Steel is harder than the copper so the hole in the cap tends to grow. This eventually provides a consequential inefficiency in grounding.
Yes, STL, the copper body is the ground. You won't get electrocuted.
The thingy is a PGZ Weld Pin
I've been using these (14500 and 18650) mods for a year and a half and haven't had a problem with any kind of short or loss of battery insulation. So far, three 14500's and two 18650's have failed due to other causes. Chip issues, I think.
They mods themselves...
The pipe I use is plain ol' NSF 61 copper tubing for potable (not portable) drinking water systems. Simple house plumbing copper. It measures 0.571" ID and 0.628" OD. My Trustfire 14500 protected batteries are all around 0.56". I have 16 of these batteries and there is not one of them that will...
18650 will fit in 3/4" pipe with a ton of slop room. 14500 will easily fit in 1/2" household potable water pipe. If it's been cut with a tubing cutter you must remove the burr before it will fit.
If you don't mind waiting a month, order from DX for dirt cheap prices and free shipping.
The red piece is wire insulation. The machine screw simply screws into the insulation. This insulates the + side of the power loop. The entire body of the thing is ground. When you bolt or solder the phone jack to the top cap, the atomizer connector becomes grounded.
Here's a link to another...
I've been into a bunch of 801 atomizers and they only have two wires. My guess is yours has a birth defect.
Edit: Oops, never mind. I misread your post. I don't know squat about 801 batteries. Sorry
Last I heard they were carefully built with 32 ga wire and a ceramic (porcelain) cup, They probably last so long because of the washing/draining action of the juice on the coil.
You don't need an electrical switch or wires in a copper pipe. You can use a mechanical switch. Search the battery mod forum on the subject of copper and you can find models for 14500 and 18650 batteries.
I can't see how that would bother a battery, I've attached the above mentioned magnets to the negative end of batteries as a spacer in mechanically switched mods. These year old trustfires are still kicking.
I use a short piece of 3/8" copper tubing or a piece of plastic sink faucet feed pipe as a punch for tapping the guts out from the top (cartridge end). Sometimes, depending on the strength of the glue and the tightness of the knurl, I put a few wraps of inner tube rubber around the atomizer body...
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