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I was thinking along the lines of some salvaged 18350's out of the power pack of a 12 V Milwaukee, possibley B&D 8.5 or some new Samsung's. I'm not into questionable batteries but if I don't need an efest at 6.5 amps I don't want to lay out the money for them.

I read a lot of conjecture on VV/VW devices, but I cannot find open source published technical documents. I'm an electrician and do not want to buy AW's based on fanboydom, I want hard technical data on the controller used. I find some threads that publish the max draw of the controller at 1 amp...

I posted this to /r/RBA and 34% of people who voted on it take vaping way too seriously.

I'm in the market for an APV to get my wife. She has tiny hands so an 18350 mod is a must. The Mvari from MVS has caught my eye, but it has an amp limit of 2.5 amps. I'm not looking to get crazy, I just want to upgrade to 3.5-4 amps if possible. Does anyone have any experience with this board...

I want to know where the good juice shops are North of "The Presidents." I'm gonna be near the 17 an Sweetwater and don't want to travel any further than 12 miles from my hotel. I lived in Phoenix for a about a year between 2010 and 2011, I smoked back then and new vape shops are constantly...

Lately, I've been thinking about utilizing scrap pistol and or rifle barrels as battery tubes. It would also be comically ironic to use a trigger assembly in the switch assembly or even a bolt action assembly as a tube and switch.

So; what do you mean by test your skills? What machines do you maintain a competency with? Lathe? Mill? Hob? Angle Blade? CNC or Manual? I personally am very fond of sleek even lines or full cooling fin configuration. I think a lock mechanism similar to a kamry but recessed into the switch...

That's just like you opinion, man. For me firing up the lathe and cutting some metal is what it's all about. Then the gratification of blowing clouds after I made it....sweeet! :vapor:

I'd just fire up the lathe and get down with some tool steel, bronze and derlin. I wish I was close to one of machine shops I have keys to.

wut:confused:

This started out as the K2 mechanical from fasttech then I removed the chrome to make the DC 3.1 (Desk Custom) and now I present you with the DC 3.11. Sorry for the links but this site has cruddy upload capability. :vapor:

Really? It's your thing why do you care what any of us think?

I'm sure you could get a 14500 into a 50 cal barrel. Cut it down thread the ends and use threaded pipe caps to build your connector and switch caps out of and parkerize. Now, I don't have any 50 cal scrap barrels laying around just 30's, but if I did.....

mAH = Milliamp Hours which is an appropriate starting point to consider run time. Amps = Intensity of current, which is how much pressure/draw is being put on the battery. Most batteries have a "C" rating. For example a 2600 mAh with a 2C rating would be able to handle 5200 mA(milliamps) or 5.2...

FT wont be shipping until February 8th and the back log will probably take another 2 weeks to sort.

More than a new name brand mech would cost. Seriously, I've worked in machine shops and contracted them for parts in fabrication. The low end for tooling setup is $65, most cuts are priced at about $0.09 per 0.001" deep per inch and were not even talking surcharges for working some soft gummy...

I just wanted to elaborate a bit on the metal tin I use. I've attached a couple of photos to this post. As you may be able to see there are some black smudges on the tin, that is liquid electrical tape or vinyl polymer epoxy. Since the purpose of this tin is to house an electrical devise I use...

I'm on team cake tin.

This guy is on it. I feel like the lipo bag concept being expressed prior to this is like me saying "you can wear your hardhat on your knee and you'll be just fine so long as it's on your body." I use a bit less expensive charger but it does have over current protection and float mode built in.