◙ Li’l PINCH (←thang) ◙ pdib (←maker) ◙ not sayin’ (←just sayin’) ◙ shuh-ZAM! (←hyperbole)
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Guys and gals, has any of you used this for his/her pinch? Would you recommend it?
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I got it for a kamagong wood mod shortly before I started squonking. Does it alter the color of the wood? And would you recommend it for an African Black pinch? I'm afraid I don't know much about caring for wood. Bear in mind that the weather in Egypt and the temperature variations can create problems.
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are we back on the depends topic?
boy, that's a sticky topic . . .
hard to make a clean break from it . . . .. it seems to always have residual effects.
are we back on the depends topic?
boy, that's a sticky topic . . .
hard to make a clean break from it . . . .. it seems to always have residual effects.
I think the question was more like:
who has used both Howard's and Ren Wax for a wood mod, and how do they differ?
(or, that'd be my question )
who has used both Howard's and Ren Wax for a wood mod, and how do they differ?
(or, that'd be my question )
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Don't think tamers is stab.
You just wanted to say penetration
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Guys and gals, has any of you used this for his/her pinch? Would you recommend it?
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Thats the stuff I use on all my Woodvils too. I want to say they make one thats got some sort of sun protection in it as well that people that ended up with bloodwoods and purple hearts used in order to prevent the reds from fading. Not sure if the Afblack would fade under lossa sun tho. Never used the Ren Wax the Bee speaks of. If Mr Bee suggests it, its gotta be good tho. Please Buzzer, enlighten us on how they differ!
Renaissance wax presumably. Harder stuff.
Some use howards then ren over the top
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Some use howards then ren over the top
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Doing some research. Seems the shotgun people know a lot about these things [emoji846]
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they differ in that I've used RenWax and haven't used Howard's.
The reasons why I use and recommend Ren is because it's designed to be as subtle as possible (no "oh look, somebody waxed the peas out of this!", no fingerprints, minimal textural/tactile impact) and yet to be good in protecting (as much as wax can be).
It's designed to be applied to historic pieces (metal, leather, wood) in museums, to protect valuable items that are handled regularly by greazy-mitted brit gawkers (with fish n' chip residue near permeating them) . . . and to have minimal impact on the visual and tactile appeal of those items.
. . .. but IDK, because I know nothing about Howard's.
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Come on all you Dibi dabbers, someone has to have used both.
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